Buzz
In the U.S., when people talk about “pickles,” they typically mean sour, vinegary cucumbers, but that’s just a limited, historically narrow view of fermented vegetables. The true origins of pickles come from the East, where they were first used as a means of preserving food. And did you know Japan is one of the foremost pickle cultures you may not have considered?
Japanese pickles are made with an astonishing variety of preserving methods—shiozuke (salt), shoyuzuke (soy sauce), misozuke (miso), kasuzuke (sake lees), and shibazuke (shiso). The assortment is endless and absolutely delightful. These pickles offer an entirely different range of flavors compared to the usual American-style pickles, which I always find disappointing. It's surprising how few Japanese restaurants serve tsukemono (pickles). Whenever you spot them on a menu, always order them.
Nukazuke and nukadoko (nuka beds) have a deep-rooted history in Japanese tradition
Of all the pickles I’ve mentioned, none compare to the legendary taste of nukazuke (rice bran pickles). Rice bran, a byproduct of rice milling, is the outer layer of the grain and is long believed to have nutritional value. In Japan, this rice bran is fermented to create nuka beds. When vegetables are submerged in these beds, the fermentation process pickles them at remarkable speed.
Nuka beds are far more fascinating than other pickling mediums, as they are a living, active ferment. Much like a sourdough starter, they are considered valued family treasures, and many families even travel with their nuka beds to ensure they can continue tending to them and making pickles wherever they go, making them the ideal houseguests.
How to create a nuka bed
Most Japanese grocery stores, such as H Mart and Uwajimaya, stock rice bran. You can purchase it without any additives or pre-seasoned with salt and seaweed, so all that’s left for you to do is add water. It typically comes in a bag, and because it’s not yet fermenting, it remains shelf-stable.
If you’re starting with plain rice bran, begin by pouring a bag into a glass container and adding non-iodized salt. Measure 13-15% of the bran's weight in salt, using 13% for cooler climates and 15% for warmer ones. Then, add three cups of filtered water for each pound of rice bran and mix everything with clean hands (avoid using utensils). Ensure the mixture is well-combined. The texture should resemble something between a paste and wet sand.
Next, it’s time to add aromatics, and possibly a fermentation starter. If you know someone with an established nuka bed, they might share a bit to help you start your own, much like a sourdough starter. Alternatively, if your favorite restaurant serves nukazuke, ask the chef— they may be thrilled by your interest and willing to share a starter with you.
To flavor the bed, incorporate garlic cloves, ginger peels, kombu, chilies, and apple peels. Each ingredient plays a distinct role: apples provide sweetness, kombu adds depth of flavor (umami), and chilies keep pests at bay. Mix these ingredients into the bed, ensuring they’re fully covered by the rice bran.
Fermentation typically happens on its own, but you can help it along by adding small amounts of beer or bread to the nuka bed. For beer, stir in a tablespoon or two; for bread, bury small pieces in the bed and cover them with rice bran.
Cover your nuka bed with a lid and let it rest overnight.
How to care for your nuka bed
The secret to keeping your nuka bed thriving is to turn it daily. If the weather is hot and humid, aim to turn it twice a day. Ideal fermentation happens between 60-80℉, so keep your nuka bed in a cool, dark place within this temperature range.
Every day, turn your nuka bed using freshly washed hands. Mix everything thoroughly, making sure all the ingredients are covered with nuka, then gently pat it down. The natural bacteria on your hands are crucial for the fermentation process. Also, take a sniff once a day—if it starts to smell yeasty, that’s a sign it’s not getting enough turning.
How to use your nuka bed
Let the aromatics and fermentation starters sit in the bed for a week, then remove them and begin adding vegetables. The pickling process might take a little longer at first, but it will speed up as time goes on. The more vegetables you pickle, the tastier your nukazuke will become and the quicker your bed will work.
To begin, take some radishes, give them a good wash, and push them into the nuka bed. Cover them completely with rice bran and let them ferment. Taste one every day while turning the nuka, and return the rest to the bed. Once they’ve reached that ideal pickled flavor, remove the rest and enjoy. You can do this with carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pea pods, and a variety of other vegetables. The thinner they are, the quicker they’ll pickle.
As you pull the vegetables out, dust off the rice bran and give them a quick rinse with cold water. They should feel slightly limp as some moisture has been drawn out by the salt, but they’ll still have a satisfying crunch. They should be tangy, not just salty. If they’re only salty, the fermentation isn’t happening properly, and you’ll need to restart it with beer or bread. Don’t leave vegetables in the bed for too long, as they’ll become overly salty and could ruin the bed if they ferment too much.
How to put your bed to rest
If you're heading out of town and prefer not to bring your nuka bed with you, simply remove all the vegetables, press the nuka into the glass container, sprinkle salt on top, and store it in the back of the fridge. This will pause the fermentation process long enough for your trip. When you return, take off the salt and place the nuka outside the fridge. The warmer temperature will reactivate the fermentation, allowing you to pick(le) up right where you left off.
