
For breakfast potatoes, my go-to is typically the classic diner-style hash brown, but making them from scratch is a real chore. The steps of shredding and wringing out moisture are just too much to handle in the morning. Home fries seem like a more manageable option, but getting that perfect balance of a crispy outside and fluffy inside is tricky with just a frying pan. To get truly delicious home fries, you need to get down to the basics—specifically, achieving a pH level above seven.
Much like Serious Eats’ crispy roasted potatoes, these home fries take advantage of the alkaline nature of baking soda. It helps break down the potato's exterior, creating a starchy, slightly mushy outer layer that crisps up beautifully. Unlike the Serious Eats method, which calls for large potato chunks, we don’t toss the potatoes in a bowl to break down the outer layer. Since home fries are smaller, simply pushing them around in the pan with some bacon grease creates the necessary friction. I prefer russet potatoes for home fries; while they don’t get as dark as Yukons, they cook into delightful little pieces with a fluffy interior and a light golden crust. To prepare, you’ll need:
2 large russet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 quart of water
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons bacon grease (or another fat of your choice)
Bring a quart of water, 1 tablespoon of salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda to a boil. While waiting, dice the potatoes. Once the water is boiling, add the potatoes and allow the water to return to a boil. Let them cook for about five minutes until the potato pieces can be easily pierced with a knife. Using a spider or sieve, remove the potatoes from the water and transfer them to a large nonstick pan. (Avoid using a stainless steel pan—it will steal your delicious potato crust, no matter how much oil you add.) Heat the pan on high and let some of the moisture evaporate from the potatoes for about a minute. Add the grease and stir to evenly coat the potatoes using a wooden spoon or spatula. Let the potatoes cook until a crispy crust forms, about 20-30 minutes, flipping occasionally to prevent burning. Serve immediately.
