
Turkey burgers are often compared to egg white omelets in the burger realm—dry, tasteless, and somewhat unappealing. At one point, I nearly thought there was no point in featuring them for Burger Week, this most revered of weeks.
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But there are plenty of reasons someone might choose a turkey burger—maybe they’re not into beef, or perhaps they have a deep-seated dislike for turkeys and want to reduce their numbers. After seeing how A.A. Newton transformed a pile of cooked-down vegetables into incredibly flavorful veggie burgers, I felt inspired. By mixing finely chopped, sautéed mushrooms and onions into the turkey meat (along with a little raw onion for extra kick), I was able to inject moisture and umami into what was once a lackluster patty. When I served one to Ofclaire as he returned home from work, still in his painter’s whites, his response was enthusiastic. “This is great,” he said. “It’s turkey!” I shouted, a bit too excitedly. “Did you add beef to this?” he asked.
I didn’t add any beef—just vegetables and, if I may say so, a bit of affection for the often-overlooked turkey meat. To make a batch (four burgers), here’s what you’ll need:
1 pound of ground turkey
4 ounces of shiitake mushrooms
2 tablespoons of schmaltz, duck fat, or vegetable oil
1/2 a grated onion + 2 tablespoons of grated onion, divided
5 garlic cloves
A splash or two of beer
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
Clean the mushrooms and pulse them in a food processor until finely chopped. Combine them with half of the grated onion, season with salt and pepper, then cook with two tablespoons of schmaltz over medium-low heat until the mixture becomes dry and golden brown.

Add the garlic, cooking until it’s aromatic and golden, then deglaze all the savory brown bits with a few splashes of beer, using a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape the pan. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce and let it simmer until all the liquid has evaporated. Take the mixture off the heat, allow it to cool, then mix in the mayonnaise and the two tablespoons of raw, shredded onion.
Using your hands, gently combine the mushroom mixture with the turkey meat, shaping it into four patties. (They’ll feel a bit loose, but don’t panic.) Season both sides of each patty with salt, arrange them on a baking sheet, and refrigerate while you preheat the oven to 250℉. Bake them for about 30 minutes, or until the internal temperature hits 150℉. In a hot pan, add a little more schmaltz or vegetable oil and sear each patty for one to two minutes per side, creating a nice, crispy crust. Serve on soft buns with mustard, a touch of mayo, and your preferred onion.
