Buzz
Shopping for a vegan holiday roast is like playing Seitan Roulette. A classic Tofurky log is mildly acceptable, but the options that show up in Whole Foods around the holidays often fluctuate between 'genuinely tasty' and 'cardboard with a hint of sage.' If you're over the usual faux-meat choices, I've got some good news: you can easily make your own.
Though imitation meats often get a less-than-stellar reputation, some of them are actually amazing. Mock duck, made of seitan flavored with five spice, MSG, and sugar, is my personal favorite. While some versions come canned, the best ones are molded into anatomically accurate shapes, complete with little ribs and drums, found in the frozen section. Texturally, it’s the perfect balance of springy and chewy; flavor-wise, it’s savory, and that sugar helps it develop a delicious caramelized crust when fried. All things considered, mock duck blows your typical seitan turkey out of the water, making it an ideal base for a festive vegan roast.
However, if you tie two stuffed vegan duck halves together and roast them for an hour, you might as well chew on a vegan leather jacket. Steam is great for keeping wheat-based faux meats moist and tender, but it doesn’t provide the crispy exterior you want for a holiday roast. The solution turned out to be simple: instead of trying to make one vegan meat both moist and crispy, why not introduce a second vegan meat designed to get crispy in hot oil?
The key to a truly remarkable vegan holiday roast is understanding the fundamentals that elevate it into something festive and delicious for everyone to savor.
Introducing mock goose: thin layers of tofu skin infused with the perfect blend of five spice, MSG, and sugar. Typically sold in compact parcels, you can easily separate the sheets to reveal a texture that closely resembles skin. Wrap your stuffed duck halves in this mock goose, steam them in an Instant Pot or over the stove, and finish by pan-frying. The result? Juicy stuffing, perfectly cooked 'meat,' and irresistibly crispy, salty skin. This is the vegan roast you’ve been craving.
You’ll find mock duck and goose in the freezer section of most Asian grocery stores. For example, Everbest is the brand I use for mock goose, and my mock duck comes from 'Vegetarian Food.' However, May Wah Market refers to the manufacturer of their mock duck as simply 'Company F.' If there isn’t an Asian market near you, you can order both mock duck and vegetarian mock goose directly from May Wah online. They deliver throughout the U.S., though shipping fees can be as high as $9.95 or more.
I’ve included my favorite stuffing and gravy recipes, but feel free to experiment with your own preferred versions. If you typically include eggs in your stuffing, be sure to reserve some without eggs for the roast. Eggs add too much moisture for a dish that is primarily cooked in steam.
Vegan Holiday Roast Recipe with Walnut-Herb Stuffing and Gravy
Essential Equipment:
Sturdy aluminum foil
Parchment paper
Kitchen twine
Ingredients for the Stuffing:
2 tablespoons of olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 ribs of celery, finely chopped
1 small parsnip or half a small celery root, peeled and finely diced
2 cups of dried bread cubes
1/4 cup of deeply toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried sage, or a handful of fresh sage leaves, chopped
1/4 cup of chopped fresh parsley, celery leaves, thyme, or a combination
2-3 cups of vegetable stock, preferably homemade
Ingredients for the Roast:
2 packages of vegan smoked half duck, thawed if previously frozen
2-3 tablespoons of neutral cooking oil, plus additional if needed
1 package of vegan goose (also known as seasoned bean curd skins), thawed if previously frozen
For the Gravy:
2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour
2 cups of vegetable stock, at room temperature
1. Prepare the stuffing. In a skillet, heat the oil (or butter, for vegetarians) over medium heat, then add all the vegetables and cook for 25-30 minutes, stirring frequently. Once the vegetables are soft and lightly browned, incorporate the bread cubes, walnuts, and herbs. Stir well and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Once off the heat, gradually stir in the stock, adding it half a cup at a time. Only use as much stock as the bread cubes will absorb, since this dish is steamed, not baked, and you want the stuffing to avoid being overly wet. Let it cool as you begin assembling the roast.
3. Spread a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil across a cutting board or a rimmed baking pan. On top of this, place a slightly smaller sheet of parchment paper. Next, cut four or five pieces of twine, each about a foot in length, and arrange them parallel to one another on the parchment.
4. Take the smoked mock duck halves out of their packaging and pat them dry using paper towels. Heat two tablespoons of neutral oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Fry the duck halves for 3-5 minutes per side until they are golden brown and caramelized. Set them aside when done.
5. Unwrap the mock goose and remove any toothpicks that may be holding the sheets together. Carefully unfold the goose into a single or double layer, then place it over the twine. The aim is to completely encase the duck halves in one or two sheets of goose, which requires a bit of finesse, so proceed slowly and carefully. If needed, unfold additional sheets and use scraps to patch any tears.
6. Place one of the duck halves, concave side up, in the center of the goose sheet. Add about one cup of stuffing, pressing it down with your hands or a spoon if necessary. Position the other half of the duck on top, concave side down, to create a faux-meat package. Wrap the goose skin over the duck halves and secure it tightly with twine. Be gentle, but don’t worry if the twine causes slight tears in the goose—these will seal during steaming.
7. You should now have a rather unappetizing little parcel. Wrap it securely in parchment paper, then wrap it again with foil, ensuring it is sealed tightly. Place the parcel in the steamer rack of an Instant Pot or other electric pressure cooker, add a cup of water, and seal the lid. Steam on high pressure for 25 minutes, then manually release the pressure and let it rest for 20 minutes to an hour in its wrapping. If you’re using a stovetop steamer, steam for 40-45 minutes instead.
8. As the roast steams, prepare the gravy: In a small saucepan, heat two tablespoons of olive oil (or butter) over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook, constantly stirring, for 15 minutes. Once the roux reaches the color of milk chocolate, slowly add the stock, whisking to blend. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let it simmer until thickened, about ten minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste, and keep warm until ready to serve.
9. Next, heat another tablespoon of oil in the same nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Unwrap the roast, discard the foil and parchment, and gently place the roast in the skillet. Fry for two minutes per side, until the mock goose skin becomes puffy, crispy, and turns a deep golden brown. Don’t forget to brown the sides as well.
Transfer the roast to a cutting board and carefully snip the twine using kitchen shears. Slice into half-inch thick pieces and serve with gravy, mashed potatoes, and additional stuffing. Wishing you and yours a wonderful vegan holiday celebration!
