Buzz
I've spent years searching for the ultimate shelf-stable pickle recipe. While I found some good ones, they either lost their crunch too quickly, or the brine was too sweet, or the cucumbers turned out bitter. But after much trial and error, I've cracked the code: a pickle that stays crisp for up to two years is surprisingly simple to make, as long as you start with fresh cucumbers and have an immersion circulator at hand.
Select the Right Cucumbers
Many people fail in the pickle-making process right from the beginning. If you're picking cucumbers from the grocery store, you're already at a disadvantage. For truly great pickles, you need cucumbers that were harvested no more than 24 hours ago, ideally the same day, and have been kept cool. If you're unfamiliar with pickles, there's a key difference between regular salad cucumbers and pickling cucumbers: the latter are smaller, curved, and have a bumpy texture. Look for cucumbers that are medium-sized and dark green. Avoid those showing yellow spots, and ensure they aren't soft.
I grow my own, but that's not to say you can't find fresh pickling cucumbers. Many local farms will pack up five or ten pounds specifically for picklers the day before market. Head to a farmers' market, make friends with a farmer, ask them to set some cucumbers aside for the following week, and be sure to confirm with a quick call the day before. When you pick them up, bring a cooler and chill those cucumbers immediately. While you can attempt the recipe with cucumbers that aren’t as fresh, they tend to become bitter and lack the crisp texture. Five pounds of cucumbers will typically fill about 12 pint-sized jars, though this can vary depending on their size.
You Don’t Have to Stick to Just Cucumbers for Pickling
If pickling cucumbers aren’t available, try pickling green beans instead. They make an excellent addition to Bloody Marys and charcuterie boards. I also enjoy pickled beets, carrots, and kohlrabi.
No matter what you're pickling, it’s essential to chill your vegetables for at least 12 hours before you start. This can be done in your fridge, a cooler, or a sink filled with ice water. This process also helps clean your vegetables.
Choose Jars Based on Pickle Size
Now it's time to consider the shape and size of your jars. You'll need to think about two things: how you prefer to enjoy your pickles and the jars you have at your disposal. For example, I love pickles in spear form, so I always use wide-mouth pint jars. I also prepare some in small, wide-mouth half-pints, which are perfect for a grill night. If you’re making pickled asparagus (which you definitely should), opt for tall, narrow pint or half-pint jars—these are also ideal for green beans and long carrots. If your family devours a whole quart of pickles in just a few days, then go ahead and use a wide-mouth quart jar.
Prepare the Jars
By now, all your jars should be thoroughly cleaned—run them through a dishwasher on a high heat setting (and ensure your hands are clean, too). Now for the fun part. To keep your pickles crisp, there are two key ingredients—tannins and Pickle Crisp (calcium chloride)—and we’ll use both. For tannins, you’ll need unsprayed oak leaves or grape leaves. I tear a grape leaf in half and place half in the bottom of each jar. For smaller jars, half a leaf is enough. Add ⅛ teaspoon of calcium chloride to each pint jar and ¼ teaspoon for quarts. For a half-pint, just a small pinch will do. Set the other half of the leaves aside.
Prepare Your Vegetables
Start by cutting off the very ends of the cucumber—that's the blossom stem, and it must go. Leaving it on will make the cucumber soften. Then, slice the cucumber into the desired shape and length to fit the jars, making sure to leave at least an inch of space at the top. For spears, slice lengthwise in half, and then halve each piece again. For slices, ensure each slice is at least ½ inch thick—anything thinner won’t hold up well over time.
For green beans, gather a bunch and chop off one end at once. Then, flip the stack over so the ends line up again, chop the other end, and place them in the jar.
Pack the Jars
Packing the jar to maximize space is an art form. I lay the jar on its side and begin arranging the vegetables, filling in any gaps as I go. The goal is to pack as many vegetables as possible into the jar, leaving minimal room for brine. You want a jar mostly filled with vegetables, not brine. Push as much as you can in there.
Once the jar is packed, make sure you leave at least an inch of space at the top. If there isn’t enough room, use a knife sideways to trim any excess. Into each jar, add the following ingredients:
Half-Pint
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 sprig of dill
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1 teaspoon caraway seed
½ teaspoon peppercorns
1 slice of fresh hot pepper (optional)
Pint
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 small bunch of dill
1 tablespoon mustard seed
2 teaspoons caraway seed
1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 slice of fresh hot pepper (optional)
Quart
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large handful of dill
1.5 tablespoons mustard seed
1 tablespoon caraway seed
1 tablespoon peppercorns
1 slice of fresh hot pepper (optional)
Be cautious with hot pepper: You may think you’re adding only a small amount, but even a tiny bit can give your brine a serious kick. It’s truly disappointing to realize that the pickles you’ve made are inedibly spicy.
Keep in mind, the goal is to fill the entire jar, leaving only the top inch empty. If you haven't quite filled it, use any leftover ingredients to top it off. If you’ve made spears, fill the gaps with slices; if you’ve pickled green beans, use the leftover cut-off pieces to fill any spaces, and do the same with carrots and asparagus. Finally, fold the second half of the grape leaf over the top—this will help keep the other ingredients submerged under the brine.
Making the Brine
If it’s pickle season, you’ll likely already have brine ready to go. If you make extra, don’t worry—it’s shelf-stable and will come in handy for later batches. It’s nearly impossible to calculate exactly how much you’ll need, since the vegetables will displace some of the liquid, and you're using different sized jars and varying vegetables.
This brine consists of equal parts vinegar and saltwater. You can experiment with different types of vinegar and adjust the brine's strength, but I typically use a 3% brine. This means that for every gallon of water, you add one ounce of canning salt. Be sure to use canning salt, as regular table salt contains additives. While tap water has worked fine for me, many books suggest using filtered water, and if your local water quality is poor, it might be worth considering that option.
One gallon of brine
1 quart of apple cider vinegar
1 quart of white vinegar
2 quarts of water (filtered optional)
2 ounces salt
Combine all ingredients in a pot and place it on the stove over medium-high heat. Stir until the salt dissolves, then turn off the heat. On the side of your jar, you’ll notice a raised glass ring about an inch from the top. This is your guide. Using a clean ladle and a canning funnel, pour enough brine into each jar to reach the band mark.
Processing the Jars
Place a new, clean lid on top of each jar along with a canning ring. Tighten the ring just enough to feel resistance. Instead of pressure canning or using a stovetop water bath, we’ll be using the sous vide method to process the jars, ensuring a stable and controlled temperature throughout. Set up your immersion circulator and submerge the jars in hot (but not boiling) water, making sure they are covered by at least one inch of water. Cover the container with plastic wrap to help retain heat. Adjust the circulator to 180°F and maintain that temperature for 30 minutes. Once the time is up, turn off the circulator and carefully remove the jars, placing them on a towel to cool naturally.
The following morning, take the rings off the jars. You should never store jars with the rings on, as they are reusable—simply set them aside for future use. Inspect the seals on each jar. If any jar hasn't sealed properly, those pickles need to be refrigerated and consumed within a week. Store the sealed jars on a shelf in a cool, stable room away from direct sunlight. Avoid stacking jars unless you place cardboard between them. For the best flavor, give your pickles a few weeks before trying them.
