Buzz
Latkes are universally loved—fried potatoes in oil are irresistible, no matter how you shape them. However, I’m not particularly fond of recipes that stray too far from the traditions of Jewish holiday foods. Recently, I’ve come across some wildly altered versions that seem to forget that latkes are meant to be mostly potato and oil. I can't help but think, 'Hmm, that doesn't feel quite like latke anymore.'
That said, there’s room for creativity within the core ingredients of potatoes and oil, and red flannel latkes are a perfect way to introduce some color and subtle sweetness to this classic, religious dish. While I firmly believe that latkes should always be shaped and made with potatoes, oil, onion, and egg, a little splash of color never hurts. The addition of celery root and beets gives these latkes a hearty texture and stunning color, earning them the "red flannel" title. You can serve them on their own or alongside the more traditional variety.
A solid shred can still be achieved with a food processor
There are plenty of thoughtful debates about whether it’s necessary to grate your potatoes by hand or use a food processor. The argument is that hand-grating yields more consistent potato strands, which makes for lacier latkes. Personally, I think these folks just need more food processor practice. If you use a shredding disk on your machine, the trick is to cut the vegetables into long chunks that fit into the feeder tube, pushing them through quickly to get nice long shreds. If you just toss them into the chute without using the feeder tube, the vegetables fall flat and get smashed against the disk. Sure, you can always hand-grate, but I’m not up for it.
In any case, take your potatoes, beet, celery root, and onion (all peeled and cut into long pieces that will fit through the feeder tube) and feed them through as fast as you can.
Extracting moisture from the latke ingredients is crucial
The goal is to extract as much moisture as possible from the shredded vegetables, and simply draining them won’t cut it.
Transfer all the vegetables into a colander and mix them together by hand so they combine well. The beets will give the mixture a stunning ruby color. Sprinkle two tablespoons of salt over the vegetables and stir it in. Let the colander sit in the sink for twenty minutes to allow it to drain. But that’s just the start: to really remove all the moisture, take a clean tea towel, pour the vegetables into it, and roll the towel up lengthwise. Twist both ends tightly over the sink and keep twisting. This will apply pressure to the vegetables, releasing even more moisture. Repeat the twisting process a few times. When no more moisture is released, spread the vegetables in a flat layer on a clean cookie sheet lined with paper towels to dry. I like to point a fan at them and leave them for about 20 minutes. If you’re in a rush, you can skip some of these steps, but it will affect how crispy your latkes turn out.
Next, it’s time to add the binder, which is simply an egg. Some recipes suggest flour or breadcrumbs, but egg is more than sufficient. Ensure it’s fully mixed in with the vegetables in the colander.
A double fry method guarantees the crispiest potatoes.
Now, the final step is to cook the latkes. Use the largest frying pan you have and add about an inch of vegetable oil. While olive oil is traditionally used during the holiday season, its low smoke point makes it less ideal for frying. Vegetable oil, on the other hand, can handle higher temperatures, resulting in a crispier texture. Heat the oil to a point where a water droplet will sizzle upon contact. Toss in the peeled garlic cloves for flavor as the oil heats up.
Scoop a generous tablespoon of the latke mixture and drop it into the hot oil. It will naturally form an uneven shape, but should stay intact. The pan should fit three to four latkes at once, so continue until it's full. Flipping the latkes is an art: too soon, and they fall apart; too late, and they burn. Check the underside for golden brown color before flipping. It’s helpful to use two spatulas to avoid splashing hot oil. Tongs are not recommended as they may cause the latkes to break.
Once the latkes are golden brown on both sides, gently lift them out with a spatula and place them on a plate lined with paper towels to drain excess oil.
I take a different approach compared to others by giving the latkes a second fry in the oil after the initial fry. Double frying is a traditional technique to achieve an extra crispy texture, and with the added beet and celery root, the second fry transforms the latkes from merely crispy to delightfully crunchy on the outside, while staying soft on the inside. I've experimented with an air fryer, but it tended to dry out the latkes more than I preferred. After the latkes are done with their second fry and drained on paper towels, you can either serve them immediately, or keep them warm in a 350-degree oven for about an hour, or even allow them to cool and freeze flat.
For a classic touch, serve these latkes with either sour cream or applesauce.
Red Flannel Latkes Recipe
(inspired by the New York Times recipe)
Ingredients
2 medium-sized gold potatoes
1 medium-sized beet
1 small celery root
1 medium-sized sweet yellow onion
1 egg
Salt and pepper
4 cloves garlic
1 cup vegetable oil
Peel the potatoes, beet, celery root, and onion, then slice them into long pieces small enough to fit into the food processor’s feeding tube.
Using the shredding disk on the food processor, quickly process the vegetables.
Transfer everything into a strainer, mix well, sprinkle with two tablespoons of salt, and mix again. Let it sit and drain in the sink for twenty minutes.
Place the vegetables in a clean tea towel, roll it up, and wring it tightly, repeating two or three times to remove as much moisture as possible.
Spread the vegetables out on a paper towel-lined cookie sheet and allow them to air dry for at least 20 minutes, preferably in front of a fan. Then, return them to the colander and mix with one egg.
Heat an inch of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add a couple of drops of water to the oil—once it sizzles, it’s ready. Drop in the garlic cloves.
Form a heaping tablespoon of the latke mixture and drop it into the hot oil. Repeat until the pan is full. Check for a golden color on the bottom, then carefully flip the latkes with two spatulas and cook until golden on the other side.
Once fried, transfer the latkes to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. After frying all the latkes, return them to the oil for a second fry. Let them brown deeper, but keep a close watch to avoid burning. Once done, place them on a fresh paper-towel-lined plate and serve immediately. If needed, keep them warm in the oven at 350°F on a cookie sheet in a single layer for up to an hour.
