Buzz
Although I don't have much affection for the man who was once my stepfather, I must admit he did introduce me to latkes. The crispy, slightly cake-like, hash-brown-inspired potato dish was a revelation to my seven-year-old taste buds, which had already encountered plenty of potato dishes.
Making a great latke isn't as simple as tossing some shredded potatoes into hot oil. While it's a straightforward dish with basic ingredients, a few key techniques should be followed, regardless of the recipe. (There are many fantastic recipes out there, but this one from Epicurious is a good starting point, though I usually add an extra teaspoon of salt and a couple of tablespoons of matzo meal.)
Opt for a food processor
Unless you're keen on overworking your wrist and potentially shredding your knuckles, leave the grater in the drawer and grab a food processor. With the shredding attachment, you can easily create uniform, shoestring potato shreds that will give the latkes a bit more structure while adding a crispy texture. No need to peel them—personally, I enjoy the added flavor of the skins—just feed washed russet potato wedges through the chute. Since potatoes brown quickly, it's best to have everything else prepped before you start shredding. (You can also soak the shreds in cold water to slow browning, but be aware that some of the starch will be lost.)
Squeeze out the moisture
For the crispiest, most beautifully charred edges, you need to remove excess moisture from the potato shreds. Do this by wringing them out in batches: place about a cup of shreds in a clean kitchen towel or a double layer of cheesecloth. Roll it up and twist with as much force as you can, twisting in both directions. Keep repeating until all the shreds are dry, changing towels as needed.
Change the oil
While olive oil is a classic for frying latkes, it burns at high temperatures, creating a bitter taste. For a clean, potato-centric flavor, canola oil is the top choice. Some people prefer the unique flavor of peanut oil, but if I opt for a non-potato flavored oil, it’s going to be schmaltz or duck fat—these two are a powerhouse combination! After frying your latkes to a perfect golden brown, drain them on paper towels, sprinkle with kosher salt, and place them in a 250-degree oven to keep warm while you finish the rest. Alternatively, serve them immediately; nothing beats a fresh latke.
Don’t hold back on the dips
Don’t think you can just get by with serving either sour cream or applesauce. Both are essential. A crispy, salty latke paired with cool sour cream and sweet applesauce is one of those perfect combinations that works so well it almost makes me look back fondly on my awful stepdad. (I once witnessed him send eggs back at Denny’s, so this is high praise.)
