I'm Eric Wareheim, a comedian, and this is my approach to food

If you only know Eric Wareheim from watching Awesome Show and Tom Goes to the Mayor, you might assume he dislikes food or encourages you to do the same, but that couldn’t be more wrong. Eric Wareheim is passionate about food—he values it, celebrates it, and wants you to do the same. His debut cookbook, Foodheim: A Culinary Adventure, is filled with both ambitious yet approachable recipes, hosting tips, and sheer joy. To Wareheim, food is no joke, but it sure is fun. I was fortunate enough to chat with him about snack platters, dining at airports, and the drink he loves to pair with shrimp.

What's your go-to breakfast?

I start my day with coffee, specifically La Colombe coffee, which I grew up with in Philadelphia when it was just a single shop in Rittenhouse Square Park. It’s the same blend that I’ve always loved. I don’t really do breakfast—I prefer an early lunch. Today, and often, I’m having light stir-fries. By ‘light,’ I mean I typically skip the meat, using whatever vegetables I have on hand, adding fried tofu, and creating a tangy homemade stir fry sauce. I serve it with sushi rice, and I make everything from scratch.

Do you prefer a more relaxed dinner afterward?

It really depends on the day. During [the peak of] the pandemic, I found myself preparing massive, intricate dinners because there wasn’t much else to do. I would make dishes like boeuf bourguignon, braised meats, ribs—things that took hours to prepare. I loved filling the house with the smell of food. I'd wake up thinking about what wines to pair with my meals. For example, 'I’ll make a cheese platter, pop open a beautiful premier cru chablis, then switch to red wine.' That kind of thing kept me going during that time. I also belong to a few wine clubs, and we gather regularly to cook for one another. That’s a weekly or bi-weekly tradition.

I heard you're a pro when it comes to snack plates. Could you describe your ideal snack plate?  

I recently took a three-week trip to Spain and Italy, and the food is always the same staples: fresh, high-quality cured meats like prosciutto, Serrano, or Jamón Ibérico. I also love pairing contrasting cheeses—something creamy like a rich triple cream brie, and then something firmer, like French Comté. And, of course, a fresh baguette. I like to warm it up in the oven and serve it with a bit of fruit—either a sweet jam or, in the summer, some fresh fruit. Another favorite is good French butter paired with a beautiful Calabrian anchovy.

You’re a fan of tinned fish, aren’t you?

Yes, I use a lot of tinned fish in my cooking, and the quality varies a lot. If you’re going to eat it on its own, you really have to get the best quality.

I noticed a recurring theme in the cookbook: a focus on high-quality ingredients, especially when it comes to meat, which I really appreciate. But I wanted to ask—are there any—though I hesitate to call them 'guilty pleasures'—

Oh, definitely. In my SmashHeim recipe, I use American cheese, and there’s just no replacement for it. It melts perfectly. A friend of mine in Sonoma is working on a cheddar cheese that melts similarly. But I’m a huge fan of tacos in Los Angeles. The meat may not be grass-fed or organic, but if you season it well enough or simmer it long enough, it’s incredibly delicious.

I included this in my book because not many people realize that there’s a big difference between the stuff you get at the grocery store—and it’s not that much more expensive if you take a little time to search for it. It was a revelation for me in both wine and food. Realizing, 'Wow! I don’t even need to season this steak. It’s perfect on its own. No sauce needed.' That’s how I believe we should eat, even with produce. Find the good stuff, if you can afford it, and cook it minimally—that’s life.

One of the things I really love from the book is the idea of being an 'acid head.' Can you explain that philosophy a bit?

Sure. For my stir-fry sauce, many stir-fries are too sweet. They might have a hint of acidity from the soy sauce, but I add lemon and Shaoxing vinegar to my teriyaki and stir-fry sauce to really brighten it up. Sometimes you want that rich, molasses-like sweetness, but other times you just crave something fresh. Like today, I had broccoli and I wanted to taste the broccoli—not mask it with sweetness. Acid is like salt. It enhances flavors. The same goes for wine—nothing’s worse than a wine with no acidity. At my wine company—Las Jaras—we focus on delivering a strong acid finish that leaves you thirsting for more, that puckering sensation that keeps you coming back for more food and wine. It’s this chemical reaction I absolutely love.

Do you ever plan your tours based on the cities you want to eat in?

Oh, absolutely. Quite a few times. When we filmed season two of Master of None, we were like, 'We want to shoot in Italy.' Simply because we love it. Aziz and I had traveled there many times before we decided to shoot there. And we’re aiming to shoot season four in Japan. It’s just an idea right now, but the food is so amazing, we want to make it happen. And when Tim and I are touring, you have to hit the bigger cities because that's where the crowds are, but I can’t miss Atlanta for the fried chicken. I’ve got to go to Texas for Franklin’s barbecue. Those are just non-negotiables.

I know Tampa isn't typically considered a major food city by most people's standards, but I really appreciated your shoutout to Bern’s Steak House.

Oh my god, have you been there?

I’ve been there. I used to live in the area. What did you order, and did you go to the dessert room?

I absolutely did. Are you familiar with their secret wine list?

I do.

Yeah. That's why I go at least once a year. It’s considered one of the best wine cellars in the world, and we only go when a specific sommelier is there to guide us. It’s a whole thing. The food is classic steakhouse fare. Our favorite dish is the Chicken Bern—when we go, we end up there for about eight hours because of the wine. We have an entire meal, and then we start over. We order two rounds of Chicken Bern, head to the dessert room, and get Champagne or some beautiful sauternes or another dessert wine. Afterward, we take a tour of the cellars, which is just unreal. It’s like we’re kids in a candy store. It’s incredible.

Any hidden food treasures in airports you’ve discovered?

Well, does Barcelona count? Are you asking about American airports?  

Anywhere!

Yeah, it’s fascinating. We just went to Spain, and in Barcelona, all we craved was pan con tomate—tomato bread—and Jamón Ibérico. There's a spot in the Barcelona airport, in the international terminal, that serves the best tomato bread and the finest ham I had throughout the entire country. I hate to admit it, but it was truly exceptional, you know? They really nailed it. And they have incredible coffee everywhere. I absolutely love Spanish airports. They really care about food there. But I’m also a huge fan of returning to LAX, and there’s a burger joint that’s been impressing me lately—Shake Shack! They have this mushroom burger that’s perfect after a long flight. I can’t do a regular burger right after traveling, but a delicious mushroom burger feels like the perfect L.A. welcome back for me.

I know you were a vegetarian for a while in the '90s, before all these new tech meats existed. Have you tried any of these new tech meats?

Yeah, I was. I did a few events with Impossible Burger because I was genuinely amazed by it. I’ve made burgers with it, and even with Beyond Meat—I’m kind of amazed at how good it tastes when you cook it right. It’s all about getting that perfect sear, that nice caramelization. It tricks your brain. But honestly, if you use good ingredients, I’m pretty impressed. I’m a fan. My sister’s a vegetarian, and my partner at Las Jaras is pescatarian, so he puts Beyond sausages on his pizzas, and it’s really good.

The dairy-free options have come a long way too.

Oh my god, yes. I have vegan ice cream sandwiches in my freezer. I’m all for it.

Are there any classic dishes you wish would make a comeback?

Definitely. I’m really into beef Wellington, and when we were filming Master of None season three in England, all I wanted was a Sunday roast, with Yorkshire pudding and beef Wellington. I’m a huge fan of prime rib joints like Lawry’s, and that type of thing. I really wish someone would open a traditional steakhouse in downtown L.A.—I mean, the old school kind. Like really old-school. Duck a l'orange and that kind of stuff. That’s my jam. There are a few cool steakhouses that do steaks and wedge salads, but I’m talking about old French classics that I think would be amazing.

I think what we’re missing here in Portland is that old-school vibe. Do you have a favorite restaurant in Portland?

If I had to choose, it would be Kachka. That place blew me away. My mom’s German, so I grew up with a lot of breads, pickled herring, and dumplings, so it really felt nostalgic and soulful to be there. Plus, getting that ice-cold horseradish vodka just makes you feel amazing.

One recipe that really stood out to me in the book was the sexy scraps pasta. It’s such a clever way to show people how to cook. Is that how you usually cook at home—using whatever ingredients are available?

I’m so glad you mentioned that. I really pushed to include it, even though we didn’t shoot it. But I thought, 'This is such an easy way to teach people how to create pastas from almost anything.' Sometimes we’ll get a farmer’s market box and end up with some leftover squash. Those can be tricky, but you sauté them with plenty of garlic, maybe some anchovies or capers—and that’s how Italians cook. It’s simple. It’s not always about heavy tomato sauces. It’s about light, fresh combinations. I wanted to show people that you can play with different noodles, different ingredients, and just have fun with it.

Do you have any other dishes that fall into this same simple and flexible category?

When I go to a steakhouse, I love pairing steak with egg-fried rice. I always make sure to keep some leftover rice in the fridge, sealed up tightly. Or sometimes, I’ll go for steak and eggs—I'll scramble the eggs softly, toss the steak back in, and add some avocado and tomatoes. It’s always amazing to me.

How do you make your soft scrambled eggs?

I just beat a couple of eggs, and occasionally I’ll add a small splash of half & half to thicken it up a bit. Over medium heat, I fry up the meat and a few aromatics, like garlic or shallots. Then, I slowly pour in the eggs and gently stir them with a spatula, keeping it moving constantly. After about 30 seconds, I turn off the heat, and the eggs form into a beautiful soft scramble. If I’ve got some shredded cheddar, I’ll add that too.

Switching gears a bit—let’s talk about shrimp cocktail, which is one of my favorites. What does your perfect shrimp cocktail look like?

Shrimp cocktail was actually the first food I really fell in love with as a kid. I spent a lot of time in Ocean City, Maryland, where they had fantastic shrimp. I remember always adding extra horseradish to the cocktail sauce, making it super spicy. Of course, the shrimp itself has to be really flavorful. In my recipe, I add spices to give the broth a little extra kick. I prefer it served in a martini glass with the shrimp hanging off the edge, garnished with a little parsley and a wedge of lemon. It’s just the classic, cold, refreshing dish that I adore.

What do you typically drink with it?

I always kick things off with a dry gin martini, served with an olive, no question about it.

What’s your go-to gin?

Right now, I’m really into Raj, Fords, and St. George. Those are my top three. And Monkey 47? That one’s also pretty fantastic.

In the pizza chapter of your book, you mention that whenever you try a new pizza place, you always start with the margarita pie because it’s the standard to measure by. Are there other benchmark dishes you use like that?

That’s a great question. When I’m at a sushi restaurant, I always start with the essentials—like a piece of chūtoro, the medium fatty tuna. I like to check the basics first before diving into more adventurous rolls or options. The same approach goes for taco joints. I’ll begin with something simple like a carne asada taco or a cochinita pibil taco. I believe you can really gauge a place’s quality by how they do the simplest things. Just like when you walk into a restaurant, try the bread, and if the Parker House rolls are perfect, you know they care. If the bread is bad, you can tell they’re not putting in the effort. For me, the basics really matter.

Yeah, that’s totally how I feel about glazed donuts.

Absolutely. I’m all about the simple stuff. It’s really the best way to go.

Got any advice for people on a tight budget who want to make food feel special?

I put a lot of thought into that while writing this book because it’s meant for me 10 years ago, before I got serious about cooking. Take chicken parmesan, for example. It’s super affordable. You can get two chicken breasts for under five bucks, make your own tomato sauce for under five bucks, and a bit of mozzarella cheese for another five. Follow my recipe, and you’ll have a dish that’ll make you feel like you’re eating at a high-end Italian restaurant, even though you only spent a fraction of the price. To me, that’s a huge part of the book. I can’t even go to a steakhouse anymore because I know I can make steaks better at home. Once you get the basics down, like how to make a great vinaigrette, it feels really elevated and it’s still cheap.

This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.