Buzz
Hollandaise sauce is a fundamental condiment (alongside other mother sauces), but its preparation can be daunting. The traditional technique demands precise timing, specialized tools (such as a double boiler), and it’s prone to splitting. But I’ve taken a different approach–breaking away from tradition. Forget what you’ve heard and simplify things with reverse hollandaise.
What exactly is hollandaise sauce?
Hollandaise is crafted from four ingredients: egg yolks, lemon juice, butter, and salt. The conventional method involves whisking the yolks and lemon juice over a double boiler (here’s a makeshift one you can use at home) while continuously adding melted butter to emulsify the mixture into a creamy, smooth sauce. It’s a delicate dance: whisking over a hot bowl resting on simmering water while pouring butter with your non-dominant hand. No surprise that it’s easy to ruin this sauce at the start.
If you don’t whisk quickly enough or pour the fat too fast, the fat particles can clump together, causing the mixture to “break” and look greasy. While the blender method can prevent breaking, it leaves the eggs raw (no, even drizzling hot butter won’t pasteurize those yolks; maybe sous vide them first). Plus, I find the volume isn’t as impressive, and some people just don’t enjoy raw yolks. This is where reverse hollandaise shines—the yolks are already cooked.
How to prepare reverse hollandaise
I love this method because you don’t have to worry about the butter breaking the emulsion. The result is a smooth, silky sauce, and it’s far less stressful than the double boiler approach. After experimenting with a cooked-yolk thickened salad dressing, I knew I could apply the same technique to hollandaise. Instead of slowly whisking raw yolks over a double boiler while simultaneously suspending the particles, you begin with pre-cooked yolks that are ground into a fine powder. These bits still emulsify, leading you to the same outcome: a velvety, golden ‘daise.
Reverse hollandaise is more of a technique, so you can stick with your favorite recipe and just use this method for the yolks. I used Tyler Florence’s recipe. Begin by hard boiling four eggs in whatever way you prefer. I steam my eggs, which takes about 12 minutes, and they peel perfectly every time.
Take the yolks and transfer them to a food processor or blender. Add the lemon juice, salt, and half a stick of melted butter. (The other half should be very soft and ready to go.) Pulse and blend until smooth. Scrape down the sides and bottom, then add two tablespoons of the soft butter. Blend again until smooth, scraping the sides once more before adding the rest of the soft butter. Blend well until everything is fully combined.
I begin with melted butter to help the mixture come together in the processor, but the second half of the butter should be soft. Using softened butter towards the end of the process ensures the emulsion doesn’t break.
Since hollandaise sauce is primarily butter, it's natural for it to thicken as it cools. To make it easier to serve, just stir in a little hot water—about half a teaspoon to a teaspoon should do the trick.
Reverse Hollandaise
Ingredients:
4 hard-boiled egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
½ stick of melted butter
½ stick of softened butter
In a food processor, combine the yolks, lemon juice, salt, and melted butter. Blend until smooth, scraping down the sides halfway through. Add a couple of tablespoons of the softened butter and blend. Scrape again and add the rest of the butter. Blend until fully incorporated. Stir in half a teaspoon of boiling water to loosen up the sauce before serving.
