Buzz
Introducing the 'Cookbook of the Week.' This is a series where I highlight cookbooks that stand out for being unique, user-friendly, or particularly dear to me. While finding a specific recipe online can be quick, there’s something magical about flipping through an extraordinary cookbook.
When we first started dating, I’d visit my boyfriend in his neighborhood of West New York, New Jersey. (This post is not about how puzzling the town's name is.) That’s when I learned that West New York is a hidden gem for amazing Latin American cuisine.
From tiny hole-in-the-wall spots to large, bustling restaurants, every place we visited was exceptional, but the one that left the biggest impression was a modest corner eatery tucked away on a quiet street. It was almost always empty when we dropped by, probably because I worked late shifts at a bakery and had unconventional hours. We always ordered the same dish: memelas de pollo.
The cookbook I’m featuring this week is titled Masa. The star ingredient, masa, is made from corn that’s been treated with alkaline substances and ground into a fine powder. This harina, or flour, becomes a simple dough when mixed with water, and that’s masa. It’s the backbone of so many homemade dishes, like memelas, tlayudas, and tamales, and even the inspiration behind mass-produced foods, such as taco shells and tortilla "scoops" you find at the grocery store. Even if you've never encountered masa by name, chances are you've had a version of it.
The restaurant in West New York may have given me my first taste of freshly made, handmade memelas. A memela is a flat corn tortilla (made from masa dough), fried until crispy, and then topped with various ingredients such as sauces, meats, and fresh cheese. Every time we went, the tortillas transported me to another world. The edges of the corn tortillas were slightly thicker—so different from the mass-produced taco shells I was used to—and with the very first bite, I understood why. As the masa disc fries, it develops a thin, crisp shell that cracks open to reveal a soft, pillowy interior. The flavor is a burst of toasted corn. While the toppings are key, the masa takes the spotlight.
Despite having tried to map its location multiple times, I can’t recall the name of this unforgettable spot, and I fear the pandemic might have forced its closure. Until I can return to check for myself, they’re still serving up memelas in my imagination.
A little about the book
Masa provides an in-depth exploration of this essential ingredient. The entire first section delves into its history, the process of nixtamalization, an investigation into how fresh masa has become more accessible, and even how to create your own using dry field corn and calcium hydroxide. The author, Jorge Gaviria, is the founder of Masienda, a purveyor of heirloom masa and corn.
Let me tell you, by ordering their masa, you can savor the benefits of nixtamalized corn flour without the need to cook and remove the corn husks. The blue and red heirloom masa harina varieties might be a bit expensive if you’re just starting to make tortillas, but the white corn masa harina I recommended above is much more budget-friendly. Feel free to stick to your own tortilla-making techniques if you prefer, and simply follow the recipes in the book.
A must-have cookbook for anyone passionate about tortillas.
It might appear as a niche group, but there’s a surprisingly large number of corn tortilla enthusiasts, and they would love this book. Not only do the recipes produce delicious dishes, but that’s only part of it: The first section is a comprehensive explanation of why masa harina is the key to incredible meals, the essential tools you’ll need, and how to approach cooking with it. There’s even an entire section dedicated to controlling alkalinity. It’s a perfect example of the author diving deep into what he loves most.
This book is ideal for someone who’s always disappointed by the tortillas served at local restaurants or who gets nostalgic about their aunt’s huaraches. You should grab it for yourself if you’ve been in search of that elusive, perfect chicken memela from your past.
What types of recipes can you expect to find?
I've had a great time experimenting with a few recipes from Masa, such as pupusas, flautas, and crispy hard-shell tacos. To be fair, I didn't grow up making tortillas, and I don't own a tortilla press or a comal, so my flautas ended up being a little bit wonky. But believe me, every recipe turned out absolutely delicious and totally worth the effort.
The recipes in Masa are straightforward and easy to follow. Essentially, it’s all about transforming the masa you’ve prepared into various shapes and cooking methods, but each dish offers a surprising range of flavors. I really appreciate that each recipe begins with its country of origin. Whether it's Venezuela, Mexico, Spain, or even a specific region or town, the source is always clearly stated. After that, you get a brief breakdown of the format – is it a 'topper' like a taco, or a 'stuffer' like a gordita? Then you’ll find the cooking method, such as fried, comal, or deep fried, helping you get the right tools or jump to a different recipe if needed. A short introductory note precedes clear, concise instructions.
One thing I truly appreciate about the book is that each recipe includes a section on storage. After crafting all these delicate, flavorful tortillas and shells, it would be a shame to throw any leftovers away.
The recipe I decided to try this week
I think my lack of experience with shaping and pressing masa adds a bit of encouragement for those who are nervous about making tortillas. The masa dough itself is incredibly easy – just masa harina and warm water. From there, it’s all about shaping the dough and cooking it in different ways. Even though my shaping attempts were imperfect, the dish still turned out great, which is a reassuring sign.
Technically, I managed to make one and a half recipes this week. I say 'half' because, as I mentioned, my flauta—well, I'm not sure anyone would call its flat form a true flauta. I still ate it, and it was fantastic. The secret to my 'flat-as' creation was the flaky, delicate, and flavorful masa harina. If you have that ingredient, any shape it takes will be delicious.
Realizing that I should begin with a simpler approach, I decided on making Bollos, a Venezuelan dish consisting of masa dumplings. Despite some earlier mishaps, my masa turned out perfectly hydrated, making it easy to shape the dumplings. I opted for a simple filling of shredded mozzarella, which I had plenty of. After placing the cheese-filled blue corn masa balls into boiling water, I let them cook for just 10 minutes. The result? Warm, fluffy, cheesy bollos with a dash of hot sauce to finish.
A quick guide on how to purchase it
The Masa cookbook can certainly be purchased online for your convenience. However, if possible, I recommend visiting a local bookstore in person. Alternatively, you can also buy it directly from the Masienda website if you prefer to support their business directly.
