Buzz
Welcome back to Sunday Sustenance! As we’ve mentioned before, apple season is here, and I’ve become fully immersed in pie-making. But despite my excitement, I’ve realized I’m not exactly a pie-making expert. Over the past couple of months, I’ve had my fair share of pie failures—overcooked, cracked crusts, soggy bottoms, burnt edges, and even apple soup inside the crust. But this isn’t as rare as it seems. These are all common hurdles in the quest for the perfect pie, and we can learn from them. So, join me as we work through these issues together and solve some pie problems!
My Pie Is a Wet, Soupy Disaster!
This is, without a doubt, the most common issue among pie makers, not just beginners. After spending so much time gathering ingredients, peeling apples, and baking, you finally cut into your pie only to discover an entire pool of apple juice. So, what’s a baker supposed to do when this happens?
Let your pie cool, aka do nothing: Seriously. Nearly every recipe calls for some form of starch to help thicken the filling as it cools. It’s tempting to dig in immediately, but resist the urge and allow your pie at least an hour to cool down on the counter.
Use the right apples: Soft, eating apples don’t fare well in heat—they release too much liquid, which could lead to a messy oven situation. Choose firm, tart apples like Granny Smith or baking varieties like Golden Delicious and Braeburn.
Use more starch, or switch up your starch: Until recently, I was using my grandmother’s pie recipe, which called for just 2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour for 4 pounds of apples. I brought this to the master herself, and she schooled me in 140 characters: MORE STARCH. Stella’s recipe calls for ¼ cup of tapioca flour, and for a good reason. Tapioca not only binds the filling beautifully but also creates a clearer syrup compared to the cloudy mess left by flour or cornstarch.
There’s a Big Gap Between My Filling and Crust!
Some bakers like this, as it gives the crust a nice crisp texture. Others, like me, see this as extra space to fill with more delicious goodness. While this might seem like an obvious issue, it’s actually a bit more complicated than it looks. I initially thought it was all about the type of apples I was using. Turns out, that’s only part of the story.
Opt for a butter-based crust, not shortening or lard: Shortening and lard (the fats often found in store-bought crusts) can withstand higher heat, meaning your crust won’t brown until later in the baking process. By the time it does, the interior of the pie will be overcooked and flat. King Arthur Flour offers a simple and excellent butter crust recipe. It may look intimidating, but most of the steps are for baking the pie, not for preparing the crust itself.
Let your pie vent, vent like the wind!: The steam from your filling needs an escape route. If you’ve crimped the edges of your crust properly, the steam will try to find its way out through any weak spot. Add more slits—six 3-inch cuts should do the trick—or take a cue from Alton Brown and use a pie bird, a charming method from a more refined time.
Pre-cook your apples: Kenji’s recipe on Serious Eats recommends pouring boiling water (or cider) over the apples to par-cook them before draining. This reduces the amount of liquid they release during baking, but the remaining liquid will need some starch to thicken it up and prevent a soggy mess.
The Bottom Crust Is Soggy and Sticking to the Pie Plate!
This is, hands down, the worst problem to encounter. Your pie looks perfect on the outside, golden and beautiful, and the filling is a gooey, delicious masterpiece. But when you try to serve a slice, the pie server only picks up the filling and top crust. What went wrong?
Blind bake: Typically used for single-crust pies, but it works for double-crust pies as well. Food52 has an excellent guide for this technique. A quick 12-15 minutes in the oven will create a sturdy crust that won’t easily soak up the liquid from your filling. The only downside is that you won’t be able to flute your crust, instead opting to crimp it with a fork. Still, it’s a minor trade-off for a perfect pie.
Brush with egg wash: A simpler alternative, especially since you’ll likely be using egg wash for the top crust of a fruit pie anyway. Brushing the crust with egg wash helps firm it up before the filling releases any liquid, resulting in a crisp bottom. This is particularly effective for double-crusted pot pies, where the filling is often hot when added to the crust.
Place your pie lower in the oven: Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Put your pie plate on a cookie sheet in the lowest part of your oven. This allows the radiant heat to cook the top more slowly while ensuring the crust cooks evenly. While some suggest preheating the cookie sheet, it’s better not to do this with a Pyrex-style plate.
Despite their seemingly simple nature, pies can be surprisingly complicated, often resulting in a variety of issues. Fortunately, there are others out there facing the same challenges, and the internet has made it easier than ever to connect with fellow bakers. But even then, this only scratches the surface of the potential problems. If things go south, don’t hesitate to reach out to the experts at the King Arthur Baker’s Hotline (I’ve called more times than I care to admit, and Mary is definitely starting to recognize my number). With over a century of combined baking knowledge, they may just be your go-to resource for help.
