Buzz
Pizza, much like barbecue, tends to stir passionate debates. As someone from the Southern United States, I don't subscribe to a particular style of pizza, which is great because it means I can enjoy any variation (pineapple included). Pizza consists of three key elements—crust, sauce, and cheese. While the crust often divides opinion, cheese tends to bring people together, and in some cases, may even have healing powers.
I've heard that some regions in the US top their pizzas with provolone, but in my experience, 97% of the pizzas I've had are topped with mozzarella or something that resembles it. Eric Wood from Portland’s Ranch Pizza shared that most pizza cheese isn’t exactly ‘true’ mozzarella. Despite that, he believes it still belongs on a pizza, and he was kind enough to offer some advice on selecting the right cheese and where to find it.
Pick your cheese wisely
When selecting your cheese, you have two primary choices: fresh and aged. Fresh mozzarella, the cheese commonly used for margherita pizza (or caprese salad), is soft, moist, and creamy with a mild, fresh flavor and a slightly spongy texture. This is often referred to as 'fior di latte' because mozzarella is technically only supposed to be made from water buffalo milk, not cow's milk—but that’s mainly a point of pride among Italians. It's generally not aged, so the fresher the mozzarella, the better. Many pizza places make it in-house by heating, pulling, and shaping mozzarella curds. Aged mozzarella, on the other hand, is typically used in New York-style pizza. While it’s technically not mozzarella, we still call it that. It has a firmer, drier texture, and its flavor is mild and savory, much like cheddar or provolone. This variety is also known as 'low moisture' mozzarella.
The decision of which type of cheese to use on your pizza depends on personal preference, but there are a few things to keep in mind if you want to perfect your pie. Fresh mozzarella can be used on any pizza, but it’s most commonly seen on wood-fired, Neapolitan-style pizzas. Since it’s wetter and less dense, it doesn’t hold up as well to longer baking times, so it’s best suited for pizzas that are cooked quickly in a hot oven. Some pizzerias even use a combination of fresh and aged mozzarella, which can be a great compromise. For instance, the famous Prince Street Pizza in New York serves its iconic square slice with fresh mozzarella on top, but the sauce is placed on the cheese to prevent it from drying out.
Grate your own cheese
For the best taste and texture, avoid pre-shredded cheese. While you can find good fresh mozzarella in stores—Bel Gioioso is a solid choice—aged mozzarella can be a bit harder to find. Most shredded mozzarella is aged, and it often has anti-caking agents added, which can alter the texture and flavor. It’s always better to shred or slice your own cheese. The best option is usually to get it from the deli counter, where you can even have it sliced for you. Cash and Carry, a restaurant supply store, also carries great options. Boar’s Head is a popular brand, and it’s usually a good choice. If you want to save money, you can buy in bulk from places like Cash and Carry. They sell a budget-friendly brand called First Street, which costs about two dollars per pound, but you have to buy six pounds at a time. It keeps well, and you can use it for other dishes like lasagna, quesadillas, or sandwiches. And if you find yourself saying there's 'too much cheese,' it's time to reevaluate your pizza philosophy.
