Buzz
Winter is the perfect time for baking bread. While eating it is a year-round joy, I especially enjoy making soft rolls during the colder months. While I adore crusty, seeded batards or tomato-stained focaccias, there’s something almost meditative about a soft roll slathered with butter. For rolls that remain soft and airy for days, add tangzhong to your bread dough.
What exactly is Tangzhong?
Tangzhong is a smooth, gelatinized starch paste created by heating flour with milk or water. This traditional Chinese method is often used to make soft breads, such as fluffy steamed buns, but it can also be added to any yeast bread recipe intended for a soft, tender result.
What makes it effective?
Starches are not only delicious but also renowned for their ability to thicken and gelatinize when combined with water and heat. Tangzhong works the same way. Flour is cooked with liquid, and in the process, starch molecules absorb and hold onto more water as they expand and gelatinize. By cooking some of the flour with water beforehand, you increase the hydration of the bread dough without compromising its texture or stability. If you simply added the extra liquid without first creating the gelatinous starch bubbles, the dough would become overly sticky, difficult to shape, and potentially too dense, resulting in a poor rise.
The gelatinized starches, now bloated with water, transfer their springy, hydrated texture to the entire loaf, creating soft, springy rolls ideal for tearing apart and eating immediately; a light, fine-crumbed loaf perfect for sandwiches; or a soft, thick, and stable French toast. While starch retrogradation will eventually occur, tangzhong ensures several days of soft, fluffy bread.
How is tangzhong made?
Making tangzhong is very similar to creating a roux (a paste made by heating butter, flour, and a liquid), but it’s simpler. To prepare tangzhong, whisk together one part flour and four or five parts liquid in a pot until smooth. Set the heat to medium. I recommend using a rubber spatula at this stage, as it makes better contact with the pan. Stir constantly until the mixture thickens. This process takes just about one minute for small batches. Once thickened, remove the pot from the heat and let it cool to room temperature before adding it to the rest of the bread ingredients.
Can tangzhong be used in any bread recipe?
I've tried this Japanese milk bread recipe from King Arthur Baking several times, and it's a perfect starting point with clear GIFs and pictures if you're new to tangzhong. Though it’s not mentioned in the steps, my advice is to dissolve the milk powder in whole milk before adding it to the dough mixture.
Alternatively, you can incorporate tangzhong into any bread recipe you wish to make more soft and springy. However, it will require some trial and error depending on the ingredients and hydration levels of the original recipe. Start small by using around 5% of the total flour amount to create the tangzhong. For example, in the King Arthur recipe I referenced earlier, only two tablespoons of flour are used for the tangzhong, which is just 14 grams compared to the 300 grams of flour used in the entire recipe.
Try using a ratio of one part flour to four parts liquid by weight. Measure the flour as specified in your recipe, then scoop out a tablespoon or two. Whisk and cook this portion with additional liquid beyond what your recipe calls for. Since the goal is to boost your dough's hydration, this is the perfect place to add extra water. The starch will absorb it, ensuring your dough doesn't turn out too stiff. (You can read here for more on how to calculate the increased hydration in your recipe.)
Once your tangzhong has cooled to room temperature, incorporate it into the mixing bowl after the yeast has bloomed, along with the rest of your dough ingredients. Continue with the mixing and proofing steps as instructed in your recipe. Your bread will rise beautifully, with a tall, fluffy loaf and a fine, soft crumb. It's heavenly. (Angels and gods undoubtedly enjoy bread made with pre-gelatinized starch.) Give it a try with your next batch of soft rolls—you’ll be hooked.
