Buzz
Grating cheese onto your food is one of life's greatest delights. The act of finely shaving salty, creamy cheese onto fresh greens, hearty soups, and pasta is woven into the culinary traditions of various cultures. While it may sound like a nostalgic ode to Italian cuisine, nothing compares to the authentic experience when using Italian cheeses, particularly when they’re sprinkled over a dish of Italian pasta.
In today's world, with bizarre developments, a 25% tariff has been imposed on several European products, especially Italian cheeses with a DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) designation. These cheeses, recognized for their regional origin and protection by both Italian and European laws, are essential. While it may be tempting to opt for “American” substitutes, this tariff only underscores the importance of understanding what makes these cheeses so exceptional. Hard Italian varieties such as Parmesan, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Pecorino Romano might appear similar to the untrained eye, but their distinct characteristics truly enhance any dish when chosen with awareness.
With over 15 million Americans of Italian descent, these cheeses have become a staple in American kitchens, produced on a larger scale domestically. However, the methods and results differ significantly from their Italian counterparts. Domestic Parmesan, though not the same as imported Parmigiano-Reggiano, still holds its own, according to Sal Di Palo, co-owner of Di Palo Fine Foods in Manhattan's diminishing Little Italy. While domestic versions may lack the depth and intricacies of Italy’s regional cheeses, understanding their individual qualities—explained by Di Palo—reveals why these Italian originals remain unmatched.
(The following has been lightly edited for clarity.)
Parmigiano Reggiano and other cheeses made from cow's milk
Cheeses made from cow's milk, with their umami-rich amino acid crystals, belong to the grana category—meaning 'grain-like' in texture. This includes parmesan, Parmigiano Reggiano, grana padano, and other excellent cheeses for grating. The diet of the cows plays a key role in shaping the distinctive characteristics of the cheese, as Di Palo explains: 'While some smaller domestic producers may allow their cows to graze, the major producers often control the feed on a continuous basis.'
While Parmesan has a flavor similar to Parmigiano Reggiano, the latter offers a much more refined taste. Di Palo points out that these subtle flavors are often absent in homogenized domestically produced cheeses like Parmesan, where cows are typically fed in feedlots. 'The cows don’t have access to varied grazing areas like mountains or valleys,' he explains. The complexity of Parmigiano Reggiano is influenced by the seasons, which in turn affect the vegetation cows graze on. Cows in the Parma region, for example, have access to lush spring grass, and their diet of wildflowers imparts a delicate floral note to the cheese, making it ideal for dishes like beschamela or insalate, rather than for pairing with tomato sauce and meatballs.
Grana Padano, another excellent cheese for grating, is made using only evening milk from cows, resulting in a lower fat content in the cheese. In contrast, Parmigiano Reggiano uses both morning and evening milk. Di Palo explains that while the two cheeses follow a similar production method, 'Grana Padano is made with very finely cut curds, which retain less moisture and develop a unique crystallization. It is produced in a different region, north of the Po River.' Grana Padano is a robust, fruitier cheese that adds a subtle, yet distinct, flavor to pasta dishes, similar to Parmigiano.
For a nuttier, milder option from Northern Italy, Di Palo recommends Piave, a cow's milk cheese that's aged for one year. It works wonderfully either as a grating cheese or shaved into fresh salads.
Cow's milk cheeses such as Parmigiano, Grana Padano, and Piave pair beautifully with: creamy sauces, bitter greens, tangy fruit jams, and, of course, a glass of Prosecco, another Italian favorite.
Sheep's milk cheeses
One of the most beloved cheeses for grating, and my personal favorite, is Pecorino Romano. I grew up sprinkling it generously on almost everything, but now as an adult, I enjoy pairing it with strawberries and honey, a combination that highlights the bold, earthy flavors of the sheep's milk from which it is made.
Pecorino Romano, a staple in the Lazio region just south of Rome, is the perfect match for bold, tangy tomato sauces and the vegetable-rich dishes of Italy's southern regions, known as Mezzogiorno. Di Palo explains its signature flavor: 'Pecorino tends to be a little sharper, with more bite and saltiness—this is the essence of the cheese.'
"Pecoro means sheep in Italian, and Romano refers to the region of Rome," he explains. "Authentic Pecorino Romano comes from Lazio, but there are other varieties of pecorino, like the ones from Sardegna." It's a beloved cheese of the south, favored for grating from Lazio all the way down to Sicily.
Pecorino is the go-to cheese for the classic Roman dish Cacio e Pepe, which I once thought was just a quick, make-do meal my mom whipped up when there was no time—little did I know it was a true culinary gem. More common than processed cheese, the iconic Locatelli brand of Pecorino, with its signature brown rind, was a staple in my childhood fridge. It added a sharp, tangy saltiness to everything, even to American foods. When my mom remarried someone non-Italian, I tasted 'green can' cheese for the first time, and it tasted like nothing.
Another cheese that can elevate your grating game is Caciocavallo, which is made from either sheep's or sometimes cow's milk. My Aunt still travels to Cinisi, our family’s original home in Sicily, and she always brings back this squash-shaped, rich-tasting cheese. You can enjoy this smooth, provolone-like cheese in thin slices, but when you get closer to the waxy rind, it's perfect for grating over tomato sauces and chickpea dishes. If you don’t have an aunt who travels, you can find several varieties of Caciocavallo at import stores, and the aged versions are even better for grating.
Di Palo supports this pick, emphasizing Caciocavallo's traditional role in the Sicilian classic, Pasta alla Norma, which combines eggplant and pasta with this creamy cheese. 'Most people use it as an eating cheese rather than a grating cheese, but the old-timers still remember its traditional use,' Di Palo says. He adds, 'Food brings back memories, and people buy it because their mothers used to have it on the table.'
Sheep's milk cheeses pair beautifully with: hearty ragù, tangy pesto mixed with summer vegetables, or simple, cheese-focused dishes like Cacio e Pepe and brodo made with cheese rinds.
Though these premium cheeses may cost more per pound, knowing how to make the most of them ensures you're getting value for every penny spent.
Whether you're replacing Parmesan with Grana Padano or ditching the processed 'green can' for authentic Pecorino Romano, choose a cheese that complements the dish you're preparing. In addition to the pairings mentioned earlier, consider matching your cheese to the wine you'll be serving, or even aligning the cheese with the region where the dish originates. Even if it's not an exact match, the result will be delicious, and you'll begin thinking beyond just the usual Parmesan.
