Buzz
Whipping siphons are often seen as tools reserved for high-end chefs. While I admire their versatility, I don’t typically use them for everyday meals like adding a smoked salmon espuma to my dinner. Instead, I’m intrigued by how they can save time, especially with infusions. Here are some smart ways to utilize one in your own kitchen.
To test whether a whipping siphon could enhance the flavor and speed of my cooking, I used my iSi Gourmet Whip (this model, around $113 on Amazon) to experiment with infusions, foams, and carbonation.
Understanding the Whipping Siphon
For those unfamiliar, a whipping siphon is a device designed to infuse liquids with gas. It uses two types of gas: nitrous oxide and carbon dioxide. The choice of gas depends on the task. Carbon dioxide is ideal for carbonating drinks or fruits, while nitrous oxide is versatile for most other applications. As noted by Modernist Cuisine, nitrous oxide works exceptionally well with fats:
Whipping siphons were originally created to aerate high-fat creams. Since nitrous oxide dissolves more effectively in fats than in water, liquids with higher fat content tend to foam better in a siphon compared to those with lower fat content.
This makes them excellent for dispensing whipped cream, but their utility extends far beyond that. Honestly, I won’t even discuss whipped cream here—most people already know how to make it, and it’s the primary reason many buy whipping siphons. Instead, let’s dive into some of the more unique and fascinating applications.
Infuse Alcohol, Oil, and Other Liquids with Flavor
Infused liquids are far more exciting than their plain, unflavored counterparts. Sure, vodka is enjoyable, but vodka infused with something like—say, juniper—is infinitely more intriguing. With a whipping siphon, you can rapidly infuse almost any liquid, whether it’s water (mundane), vinegar, oils, or ethanol. Care to guess which one I experimented with?
If you guessed “ethanol,” you’re absolutely correct. The whipping siphon’s primary advantage for infusions is its ability to drastically reduce the time required. While traditional homemade bitters can take days, the siphon can deliver results in just half an hour.
To evaluate the siphon’s efficiency in extracting flavor, I decided to focus on a single, highly recognizable ingredient: vanilla. Most commercially available “vanilla-flavored” vodkas are overly sweet and artificial, so I aimed to create a superior version in a fraction of the time.
I added 250 milliliters of plain vodka and one split vanilla bean into the siphon. After charging it twice with nitrous oxide (the recommended amount for my siphon model—always consult your manual for proper charging instructions), I shook it six times and let it rest for ten minutes. After de-gassing, I sampled a small amount. The vodka had a strong vanilla aroma but a milder flavor, so I repeated the process for another ten minutes. The extra time made a significant difference, resulting in a rich, authentic vanilla flavor—far superior to the overly sweet options found in stores.
In under half an hour, I had a delicious vanilla-infused vodka. Keep in mind that infusion times vary depending on the ingredient. Fresher, softer ingredients like herbs and fruits infuse quickly, while drier, tougher ones may take longer. However, 30 minutes is generally sufficient for most alcoholic infusions.
For oils and vinegars, the iSi website suggests a 15-minute resting period after shaking for most recipes, such as their garlic oil or tomato vinegar. Stronger ingredients like hot peppers require only about five minutes.
Create Quick Pickles, Alcohol-Infused Fruits, and More
Just as the siphon can infuse liquids with flavorful solids, it can also enhance mild-tasting foods by immersing them in a more flavorful liquid. As someone who loves pickles, I’m constantly on the hunt for quick pickle recipes, so I decided to experiment with this method.
I prepared Alex Guarnaschelli’s “Quick and Easy Pickle” brine, adding it to the siphon along with a sliced garlic clove, fresh dill sprigs, and a pound of cucumber spears. After charging it twice with nitrous oxide, I let the mixture sit for 15 minutes. The result was a lightly brined, fresh-tasting pickle, but I craved more intensity. So, I repeated the process for another 15 minutes, yielding a tangier, more robust pickle that I’ve been enjoying ever since.
This technique works for pickling almost any vegetable with any brine, but it’s also perfect for infusing fruits with alcohol. For instance, whiskey-infused cherries for cocktails are as simple as combining cherries with your preferred bourbon or rye in the siphon, charging it, shaking, and letting it rest for 30 minutes. After de-gassing, you’ll have boozy fruit and fruit-infused liquor.
Create Your Own Fizzy, Flavorful Fruit and Seltzer
As someone who stays hydrated almost exclusively through carbonated water (mostly La Croix), I wanted to recreate my favorite flavor, pamplemousse (grapefruit), but with a more vibrant taste. This led me to experiment with crafting my own version of this essential beverage.
I didn’t follow a specific recipe for this experiment. I simply peeled the zest from a ruby red grapefruit, added it to the siphon with a liter of cold water, charged it twice, and let it sit for an hour. The result was an incredibly flavorful, fizzy, and grapefruit-infused water. For carbonated water enthusiasts like me, this is a game-changer—it allows you to create custom flavors that are exclusive to you. While it’s not as cost-effective as buying a 12-pack of La Croix (which averages just over a dollar per liter), crafting your own fizzy drink costs about $1.60 per liter, making it a worthwhile indulgence.
The excitement doesn’t stop there. You can also carbonate actual fruit pieces. Simply add your favorite fruits to the siphon, charge it, and let it sit in the fridge overnight (at least 12 hours). The next morning, you’ll have carbonated berries, oranges, or pineapple chunks—like healthy, homemade Pop Rocks.
Create Elegant and Impressive Foams
This next technique is perfect for two kinds of people: those who enjoy dazzling guests with culinary flair and those who dislike eggs. This ChefSteps recipe requires only fruit juice, gelatin, and your siphon to create a sophisticated foam that’s ideal for garnishing cocktails, desserts, or even savory dishes. It looks incredibly refined and professional, yet it’s surprisingly simple to make.
To craft a fruity foam, you’ll need the following:
500 g Fruit juice, or another liquid of your choice
Ice, for preparing an ice bath, as needed
Water, for the ice bath, as needed
3.8 g Gelatin
Prepare an ice bath and set it aside. Mix the gelatin with 125 grams of your selected juice, then gently heat until the gelatin fully dissolves. Combine this mixture with the remaining liquid, charge the siphon with three nitrous oxide cartridges, and shake thoroughly. Dispense a small amount of foam, and add more charges if you prefer a denser foam. Place the siphon in the ice bath or fridge until you’re ready to use it.
I had about 500 grams of pineapple juice that needed to be used, so I opted for a tropical theme and created a simple “cocktail” with pineapple and rum. I use the term “cocktail” loosely because it only involves two ingredients, but once I added the foam, it transformed into something that felt much more sophisticated and craft-like.
A quick note: this recipe yields a substantial amount of foam. To give you an idea, 500 grams of foam looks something like this:
So, be prepared for a generous quantity.
While this recipe was designed for cocktails, foams can add a whimsical touch to a wide range of dishes. Imagine cherry foam atop chocolate ice cream or lemon foam enhancing a delicate seafood dish. Pickle brine foam is an intriguing idea, though I’m still figuring out the perfect pairing for it.
Even if I never use this device to craft my own burrata or create a root beer float cryosicle, I’m still delighted to have it. Honestly, if it only served to infuse ethanol and make quick pickles, it would still be a worthwhile investment.
Photos by Claire Lower.
