Buzz
Every year, driven by a craving for spring’s first signs, I grab the earliest batch of supermarket tomatoes that appear even remotely ripe. They always disappoint, leaving me regretting my purchase and feeling betrayed by those lackluster tomatoes.
Luckily, even flavorless, watery tomatoes can still serve a purpose. I firmly believe that the only time ripe tomatoes should be cooked or charred is to preserve a harvest, but winter tomatoes are another story. Heat enhances the flavor of a bland tomato: roasting, grilling, or sautéing activates the Maillard reaction, which boosts flavor while also reducing the liquid content, intensifying whatever flavor remains. Moreover, the tough, cardboard-like texture of an underwhelming winter tomato holds up to heat, unlike a ripe tomato that turns into mush. This makes the mediocre winter tomato ideal for a smoky, roasted salsa.
In contrast to pico de gallo, which needs peak-season tomatoes to shine, cooked salsas develop depth of flavor through roasting or charring the ingredients before blending them with other spices. It’s incredibly simple to make: blacken tomatoes, peppers, and onions thoroughly under the broiler—or on the grill if you're lucky enough to have one—roughly blend them, and then ‘sear’ the mixture in a pan with sizzling hot oil. After a quick simmer and some seasoning, you’ll have a thick, rich salsa perfect for any use you desire.
Not only are cooked salsas incredibly easy to make, but they’re also highly customizable. You can use any combination of chiles—whether fresh, dried, or a mix of both—and the proportions are very flexible. Adjust the balance of tomatoes to fresh chiles based on your spice preferences. And because the salsa is cooked, there's no need to soak dried chiles: just toast them and toss them in. The heat from the roasted veggies, the searing process, and the time in the fridge will rehydrate them perfectly.
If winter’s dreariness is getting to you, a bright, summery snack made with ingredients that don’t require a hint of summer is just what you need. Make some salsa, then cozy up by the sunniest window with a bag of chips, a cold beer, or a margarita. Spring may still be far off, but there’s no reason to suffer until then.
Roasted Winter Tomato Salsa
The chiles I’ve used here create a flavorful, yet mild salsa. I opted for serranos for their spicy kick and fresh, grassy flavor, and guajillos for their sweet, fruity notes—something you just can't get from tomatoes in winter. For a spicier salsa, simply add more fresh or dried chiles, or choose hotter varieties. Habaneros, with their sweet heat, would make a wonderful roasted salsa, and I believe they’d be amazing in this one.
Ingredients:
1 large white onion
Juice of 2 limes, plus extra for seasoning
Salt, to taste
1/4 cup olive oil, or any neutral cooking oil
1 1/2 lb. underwhelming March tomatoes, any variety (I used plum)
1 or more large fresh hot chiles, any variety (I used serrano)
4 or more large, mild dried chiles, any variety (I used guajillo)
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
Adobo seasoning, to taste (optional)
Instructions:
Peel and quarter your onion. Finely chop one of the quarters and place it in a small bowl. Add the juice of 2 limes and season with salt to taste—about 1/2 teaspoon of table salt should do. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside.
Preheat your broiler to high and drizzle two tablespoons of oil onto a sheet pan. Slice the remaining onion quarters lengthwise into halves, yielding six evenly sized wedges. Trim off any roots and scatter the onion wedges across the oiled pan. Slice the tomatoes and chile peppers in half lengthwise through the stem and add them to the pan. Toss the vegetables gently with your hands to lightly coat them in the oil, ensuring the cut sides face down.
Place the sheet pan in the oven and broil for 10 to 30 minutes, adjusting for your broiler’s strength. The goal is to blacken the exposed skin of the tomatoes and peppers, and char the onions. Check on them frequently to monitor their progress. Once done, transfer the vegetables to a heatproof bowl and pour a quarter cup of water into the pan to deglaze it. Use a spatula or wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits and pour the deglazing liquid into the bowl with the vegetables. Set it aside to cool.
While the vegetables cool, use kitchen shears to trim the ends off your dried chiles and slice them down the length. Remove and discard the seeds and ribs—I prefer to shake the seeds into a bowl and use my fingers to peel the ribs out. Heat a dry 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat, then toast the chiles gently until they’re pliable and aromatic, no more than 30 seconds per side. A little charring is fine, but don’t let them burn, as burnt chiles can be bitter. Immediately stir the toasted chiles into the warm vegetables and puree everything to your desired consistency using an immersion blender.
Next, wipe the skillet you used to toast the chiles, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, and heat it over medium-high. Once the oil is hot and shimmering, almost smoking, pour in the puréed vegetables all at once; it will splatter, so be cautious. Bring it to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes until the oil is fully incorporated and the salsa thickens slightly. Transfer the mixture to a clean storage bowl.
Stir in the marinated onions and cilantro while the salsa is still warm, then adjust the flavor by adding more salt, adobo seasoning, and/or lime juice to taste. (The adobo seasoning is optional, but I highly recommend it—it brings a wonderful savory garlic and MSG kick.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
Serve with tortilla chips for a satisfying meal best enjoyed from the comfort of your couch. However, if you’re feeling more sophisticated, there are countless ways to enjoy your homemade salsa. Use it as a base for chili or stews, fold it into quesadillas and tacos, top nachos with it, or—my personal favorite—pair it with crispy fried eggs, black beans, and tortillas for a phenomenal plate of huevos rancheros.
