Buzz
I’ve previously written about recipes you should steer clear of. When I wrote down this cheese curd recipe, I genuinely didn’t expect anyone to follow it—it was just too complicated for these hectic times. Here’s a little secret: I don’t even like cheese curds, or at least I thought I didn’t.
Much like Sprinkles Cupcakes, In-N-Out, and Krispy Kreme, the charm of squeaky curds didn’t quite appeal to me. But I was determined to cover all facets of cheesemaking (and tasting), and it felt wrong to leave curds out. (Besides, people are really into poutine.)
What truly stunned me was this: after an exhausting 14-hour cheesemaking day, when I’d usually want to toss the milk out the door, I found myself compulsively munching on those damn curds. They were so addictive—something I never imagined would happen, especially after all the times people tried to shove cheese curds my way.
These curds had a rich, tangy flavor and gave a gentle resistance when I bit into them, unlike the rubbery texture I’d typically encounter at restaurants. The squeak was crisp. While making your own curds is an adventure, I’d say gear up with a ladle-shaped helmet and dive right in. In the end, the pot of gold is really a bowl of curds.
Squeaky Cheese Curds, based on a recipe by Gavin Webber
Ingredients:
1 gallon milk, preferably not ultra-pasteurized (pasteurized, VAT-pasteurized, or raw milk works fine.)
1/8 teaspoon mesophilic culture
½ tablespoon calcium chloride dissolved in ¼ cup distilled water
½ tablespoon rennet dissolved in ¼ cup distilled water
1 tablespoon non-iodized salt
Tools (Check out our equipment guide for suggestions):
6-quart or larger stockpot
3-quart saucepan
Stainless steel colander
Cheesecloth
Measuring spoons
Thermometer
Prepare your workspace
As with all cheese-making, cleanliness is key to achieving perfect curds. Ensure that your pot, counter, all utensils—from measuring spoons to the thermometer—along with the faucet and sink are thoroughly cleaned and sanitized with white vinegar or a disinfecting solution. Keep your vinegar spray bottle and fresh towels within reach for easy access.
Bring water to a boil in a pot on the stove, then submerge your cheesecloth for at least one minute. Use sanitized tongs to remove it and drape it over your colander before you proceed.
Once you begin, avoid washing dishes or handling anything else in the kitchen, as any droplets may contaminate your cheese. If you have any active ferments, make sure to cover or move them so they don't spoil the cheese. A sterile environment is crucial.
Warm the milk and add the culture
This recipe requires patience, so we’ll conserve our energy by using a double boiler to heat the milk. If you’re working directly over the burner, you’ll need to stir continuously. With a double boiler, it’s more forgiving, allowing the milk to reach the right temperature with less stirring.
Prepare a sauté pan with a few inches of water, and place a six-quart (or larger) pot on top of it. Attach your thermometer to the pot and pour in the milk. The target temperature is 88℉, which should be reached quickly. Once you hit the mark, turn off the burner, but leave the pot of milk in place.
Add your culture: in this case, mesophilic culture. It’s a powder, so ensure it’s not clumpy, as that indicates the culture has gone bad. It should pour easily, like salt. Sprinkle it over the milk without stirring, then cover the pot and leave it for five minutes. This allows the culture to rehydrate, preventing clumps when you stir it later.
After five minutes, remove the lid and stir for exactly one minute—sixty full seconds. Then replace the lid and set a timer for 45 minutes. This is the culture’s ripening period, so now’s the time for a disco nap.
Add the rennet and cut the curds
After 45 minutes, remove the lid and you’ll notice the cream has risen back to the surface. At this stage, stir the milk to create a small vortex, then add the calcium chloride. Keep stirring for another minute.
Keep stirring, then pour the rennet solution into the milk, stirring continuously for one full minute in a figure-eight motion. Once the minute is up, still the milk by holding the spoon steady in the pot. Cover the pot with the lid and set a timer for 40 minutes. This gives the curd time to set.
When the timer rings, remove the lid and use a knife to test for a clean break. The knife should slice through the curd smoothly, and the curd should hold its shape once you pull the knife out. If you get a clean break, proceed. If not, replace the lid, wait another ten minutes, and check again.
Once you’ve achieved a clean break, cut the curds into ½-inch cubes. Start by slicing a vertical column in one direction, then rotate the pot and make a second set of cuts, perpendicular to the first, creating a grid over the milk. Then, make diagonal cuts, ½-inch apart, crossing over the first two sets. The goal is to form ½-inch cubes.
Place the lid back on and let the curds rest for five minutes to ‘heal.’ I’m not entirely sure what that means, but it’s a phrase often used in cheesemaking. The curds need a moment to settle; feel free to take a quick break.
Reheat the curds
At this stage, you’ll notice whey floating on top of the pot while the curds have settled at the bottom. Turn the heat back on to medium-low and prepare yourself. We’re aiming to bring the milk to 102℉, but we’ll do it so gradually that you’ll feel the burn in your muscles. Stir constantly for the next 30 minutes as you bring the temperature up. Don’t just stir in circles—start from the bottom of the pot, lift the curds to the top of the whey, and keep repeating this motion.
The curds will break apart and shrink as you stir. Once you hit 102℉, turn off the heat and continue stirring for another 30 minutes, trying to maintain that temperature. I know it’s a lot, but bear with me. During this time, the curds should firm up, although the change may be subtle.
One way to test the curds is by squeezing them. Wash your hands, including your nails. Then, spritz them with vinegar and reach into the curds. Grab a handful and squeeze. If they hold together, you’re on track. You should still be able to push your thumb through and break them up, but if they don’t hold, stir for another 10 minutes and test again.
Once the curds bind together as described, take a 15-minute break to let them rest.
You’re not finished with that whey yet
Place a cheesecloth-lined colander over a pot to catch the whey. Gently ladle the curds and whey into the colander and let them drain for 10 minutes. The curds should settle into a slab.
Take the pot of whey and bring it to the stove, heating it up to 115℉. No need for a double boiler here—it can go directly on the burner. Once it reaches the target temperature, turn off the heat. Set the colander full of curds on top of the pot, as if it’s a lid. Cover the colander with the pot lid, trapping the curds beneath, and let everything rest for 15 minutes.
Lift the lid off the pot and carefully flip the curd slab over. Continue this process every 15 minutes for the next hour. Resist the urge, though I know it’s tempting, to taste the curds.
By now, the curds should have formed a unified slab, sticking together with a glossy surface. If not, just keep flipping them.
When the curd slab has that shiny finish, transfer it to a cutting board and slice it to your preferred curd size. I tend to go with ½-inch or 1-inch-wide rectangular pieces. Then, place the curds into a container and toss them with salt. Cover the container and shake it as you reflect on all those squeaky curds from meals past—curds that you didn’t fully appreciate back then. It’s not your fault; you didn’t know. Who would have imagined how much work goes into making squeaky curds? Certainly not you.
You’ve made it this far.
Just kidding, you’re not quite finished yet.
Now, you’ve got to make them squeak.
For the final step, place the salty curds back into the colander over the pot, ensuring the heat is off. Cover with a tea towel and leave for 12 hours to drain. This crucial step is what gives the curds their signature squeaky texture. When you wake up, you’ll have fresh, squeaky homemade cheese curds (and possibly a sore arm). These curds can be kept in the fridge for up to two weeks, but let’s face it, you’ll likely finish them before your arm has time to recover.
