Buzz
Creating umeboshi, the tangy pickled plums that develop a richer flavor over time, offers two delightful outcomes. Not only do you get the plums, but you also yield umeshu, a savory, plum-infused violet-hued liquor as a bonus. Both are equally cherished, and I’ll share two methods to prepare these delicacies: a traditional approach ideal for late spring and an unconventional method perfect for late summer or early autumn.
For years, I’ve been preparing umeboshi (incorrectly), so I sought guidance from Jane Hashimawari of Ippai in Portland, Oregon—a culinary expert I admire online and occasionally share surplus vegetables with—to master the proper technique for these mouthwatering sour delights. Jane’s engaging pandemic-era cooking sessions on Instagram, infused with her natural wit, got me through the initial lockdown months, encouraging me to explore Japanese-inspired dishes I’d never tried before. Specializing in Japanese comfort food pop-ups and catering, she focuses on seasonal Northwest ingredients. Knowing her expertise in authentic umeboshi, I inquired about her methods.
How did you master the art of making umeboshi?
I spent a lot of time researching by reading vintage Japanese cookbooks, watching old YouTube videos of grandmothers, and asking my mom for advice. Although she didn’t make umeboshi often while I was growing up, her mother did, so she had some memories of the process. It might seem excessive to dive so deeply into it, but there’s always more than one way to approach anything!
You often share posts about your mom, her garden filled with Japanese vegetables and fruits, and your memories with her. What does umeboshi mean to you personally?
Umeboshi holds a deep cultural and emotional connection for me, tied to food memories and traditions. I felt compelled to honor the ume by learning to make it myself, especially since I have the resources to do so. It was a staple in our daily meals growing up—whether in onigiri, as part of a pickle platter, or as a seasoning in various dishes.
What’s your favorite way to enjoy umeboshi?
I enjoy eating ume at different stages of softness. When it’s still slightly firm, we call it “kari kari ume,” which has a delightful crunch while retaining that classic umeboshi flavor. I love pairing it with rice. Another favorite is making umeboshi mayo (by roughly chopping ume and mixing it with mayo) and spreading it on grilled fish. But honestly, nothing beats umeboshi tucked inside an onigiri wrapped in nori.
Jane Hashimawari’s Method for Making Umeboshi
Ingredients:
3 pounds of ume plums (Typically available in early May at Asian grocery stores—call ahead to check.)
½ pound of non-iodized salt
4 cups of fresh red shiso leaves
½ cup of vodka
This method requires patience, as it spans several months. Jane begins by soaking the plums in fresh water overnight, then uses a toothpick to remove the stems. This step is quick and straightforward, taking only a few minutes to complete.
The container used for making umeboshi must be impeccably clean. Wash and dry it thoroughly, then swirl vodka inside to sanitize before pouring it out. Layer the plums neatly into the crock, avoiding a haphazard approach. Between each layer, sprinkle a portion of the salt, ensuring all the salt is evenly distributed by the end.
Once the plums are layered, you’ll need to weigh them down, and there are several methods to achieve this. While specialized pickling weights are available, you can also use a brick or a heavy can placed inside a Ziploc bag. The key is to ensure the plums are fully covered and compressed, no matter what weight you choose.
Patience is essential. Ume plums are harvested in early May, but the red shiso required for the next step isn’t ready until late June. In the meantime, observe as the salt draws out the plum’s juices, forming a flavorful liquor that submerges them. Keep the crock sealed during this process.
Choose an attractive crock for your pickled plums:
TOMO 3-liter fermentation crock with weights
5-quart ceramic crock with weights
1-gallon stoneware crock with weights
In June, when red shiso is ready for harvest, bring the leaves indoors, massage them with additional salt, and let them sit overnight in a bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel if dust is a concern. “This step removes impurities,” Jane explains.
The following day, transfer the contents of the crock into a clean bowl sanitized with vodka. Layer everything back into the crock, alternating between shiso leaves and ume plums. Continue this pattern until all the shiso is used and the plums are fully layered. Weigh it down once more. Over the next few days, the liquor will absorb the red shiso’s color, turning a vibrant purple, while the shiso infuses its distinct flavor.
The last step, when the weather is scorching, is to sun-dry the shiso and plums. Spread them on a drying mat each day and return them to the crock at night. Repeat this process for two to four days until the plums achieve the perfect texture—slightly chewy, somewhat dry on the outside, but still tender inside. Hashimawari described it as “Soft, but not like a raisin!”
Once dried, transfer them into jars and let them age. The longer they age, the better they become.
How to Prepare Non-Traditional Umeboshi
Living in the Pacific Northwest, I’m surrounded by fruit trees. For years, my neighbors generously shared their massive Italian plum tree, which produced fruit endlessly. I’d pick green plums in late summer to create my own version of umeboshi, knowing it wasn’t authentic but still yielding delicious pickles and the umeshu I adore. While Jane’s family might not endorse it, if you can’t find real ume plums, this method is worth a try.
Ingredients:
3 pounds of green Italian plums. They should be mostly green, though a slight blush is acceptable
½ pound of non-iodized salt
4 cups of fresh red shiso leaves
½ cup of vodka
Clean the plums as instructed earlier, ensuring they are stem-free and flawless. Sanitize the crock similarly, then rinse the plums with vodka. Since these plums and shiso are ready simultaneously, layer them together: start with shiso, add plums, sprinkle salt, and repeat. Fill the crock to the top, place a weight on the layers, and let it rest for a few weeks until the plums are submerged in umeshu.
Follow the drying process mentioned earlier, then store them in jars to age. I’ve discovered that umeboshi made this way reaches its peak flavor in the second year, though the umeshu can be used right away.
Creative Ways to Use Umeboshi and Umeshu
One of my favorite tricks is to infuse whipped cream with umeshu. The result is a salty, vibrant topping that elevates desserts. Pair it with matcha sponge cake for a uniquely luxurious treat. I also enjoy adding sliced umeboshi to soba noodles, ramen, or plain rice with furikake. Hashimawari’s annual umeboshi onigiri is always a hit.
The beauty of making umeboshi lies in the patience it demands, allowing the process to unfold naturally. Some years, things go wrong—mold develops, and you have to discard the batch. Other years, for reasons I can’t quite pinpoint, everything turns out perfectly. Ultimately, you’re participating in a cherished Japanese tradition that celebrates the plums and shiso, often resulting in a delicious and unique pickle.
