Buzz
For those with an oven featuring a convection setting—where a fan circulates hot air around the food—it might seem appealing to use it for cakes, cookies, and biscuits to achieve more even cooking. However, Patron Saint of Good Baked Things, Stella Parks (also known as The Brave Tart) warns that this can result in less-than-ideal outcomes.
In a tweet that sparked unexpected controversy, Parks highlighted that altering the cooking environment for treats designed for conventional ovens can cause crusts to form too quickly:
Convection should never be used for American baked goods unless explicitly stated in the recipe. The hot, dry air in home ovens speeds up crust formation in cakes, cookies, and biscuits, which often hinders the desired rise.
This could lead to cakes that are too flat, cookies that spread excessively, and biscuits lacking fluffiness. Since baking is essentially edible chemistry, it’s crucial to stick to the instructions as the recipe creator intended—unless you’re a professional baker experienced with convection ovens and producing baked goods daily. Parks clarified in her DMs that her advice was directed at home bakers.
“For skilled bakers who make informed adjustments, anything is achievable,” she noted, clarifying that her tweet targeted “those who switch to convection mode simply because they assume it’s superior. Professionals use it to mitigate challenges like excessive steam during large-scale baking, which isn’t a concern for home bakers.” If you must use a convection oven, covering your baked goods can help counteract the dry air, though Parks cautions it might “negatively impact browning and crust development.”
In summary, the convection setting is a powerful tool when used correctly, but American recipes are typically designed for traditional ovens. If you’re confident in tweaking time and temperature, feel free to experiment—but I’d take Stella’s advice seriously. Stella likely knows more than you do.
