Buzz
If you’ve tried vermouth, it was most likely in a martini or Manhattan, but it’s rare to see it served on its own. Thankfully, vermouth is becoming increasingly popular in the United States, with entire bars dedicated to this rich, flavorful fortified wine. Keep reading to discover what vermouth is, how to choose it, and how to enjoy it.
What Is Vermouth, Exactly?
Vermouth is part of one of my favorite wine categories: aperitifs. The term “aperitif” means “to open,” and these beverages are designed to prepare your palate for a meal by stimulating the digestive system with their distinctive bittersweet taste. To achieve that signature flavor, a sweet, low-alcohol wine is infused with plant elements (herbs and botanicals) to add complexity and color.
The list of botanicals that can be used in vermouth production is extensive, but licorice, mace, lavender, cardamom, St. John’s Wort, gentian, and anise are among the key ingredients (just to name a few). With such a wide variety of plants contributing to its flavor, vermouth can vary greatly, and a high-quality vermouth will have a complex, herbaceous, almost indescribable taste profile that keeps your taste buds intrigued. Identifying all the flavors can be a challenge, however, as the specific botanical blends are often kept secret and closely protected by manufacturers.
Botanicals alone aren’t sufficient to make wine a vermouth; it must also be both aromatized and fortified. Fortification refers to strengthening the wine by adding spirits like neutral grape brandy, which raises the alcohol content. This increase in alcohol not only gives the vermouth more kick but also helps it last longer, though it will still begin to oxidize over time. To preserve your bottle, store it in the fridge, where it should remain good for up to a month. It won’t spoil in a harmful way, but the flavor will gradually decline.
How to Navigate the Vast Selection of Vermouths
Vermouth is one of those drinks that defies easy categorization. While most red vermouths are sweet and most white vermouths dry, there are plenty of exceptions, and (like sexuality) I prefer to think of vermouth as existing along a spectrum, rather than in rigid categories. However, there are some general types to familiarize yourself with, which will help when browsing at the liquor store or bar:
Sweet Red: This classic Italian vermouth is commonly found in a Manhattan or Negroni. Its distinctive red hue comes from caramel coloring, and its sweetness is derived from added sugar syrup before fortification. Italian vermouths generally fall into this category, offering a slightly bitter flavor that balances the sweetness. Look for labels marked “rosso” for red, Italian vermouth. Recommended Bottles: Cocchi Vermouth di Torino (arguably the finest from Torino), Martini Rosso (widely available), Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Rouge (a good balance of bitter and sweet with a touch of savoriness), Carpano Antica Formula (renowned for its unique vanilla notes).
Sweet White: Known for its fresh, fruity, and floral qualities, this vermouth is perfect for a summer cocktail or as a dessert wine. Recommended Bottles: Dolin Blanc (herb-forward, less spicy than its rosso counterpart), Contratto Bianco (great in a martini with a twist, though not with an olive), Martini Bianco (with pleasant vanilla notes).
Dry White: This is your go-to vermouth for a martini. It’s lighter-bodied and far less sweet (4% sugar content compared to 10-15% in sweet vermouth), with a flavor similar to a boozier, herbal white wine. Recommended Bottles: Dolin Dry (my personal favorite; I’m sipping it as I write), Noilly Prat Original French Dry, Martini Dry (easily accessible).
Punt e Mes: Though technically a “sweet, red” vermouth, I’m singling it out because it’s truly unique. The name translates to “a point and a half,” referencing the delicate balance of sweetness and bitterness you experience with each sip. As a fan of bitter flavors, I find Punt e Mes’s distinct, Campari-like taste perfect for any cocktail, but I wouldn’t refuse a neat glass with an orange or grapefruit peel garnish.
Everyone’s taste preferences vary, so experiment with different styles and brands to find the one that suits you best. Fortunately, vermouth is fairly affordable, with most bottles priced around $15, and some stores even offer smaller-sized options.
Mixing a Cocktail
Now comes the exciting part. Vermouth often acts as the perfect finishing touch in iconic cocktails like martinis and Manhattans, but it’s more than capable of taking center stage in its own drink. Here are a few of my top cocktail picks that feature vermouth. Let’s begin with the classics:
Classic Martini: 2 ½ ounces gin (dry gin is recommended, but Hendrick’s offers a nice twist) + ½ ounce dry vermouth. Stir the ingredients with ice for about 15 seconds, then strain into a coupe or martini glass. Garnish with either an olive or a twist of lemon.
Manhattan: 2 ounces rye whiskey (or bourbon, if you prefer) + ½-¾ ounce sweet red vermouth + a few dashes of Angostura bitters. Stir everything with ice for 15 seconds, then strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with a Luxardo cherry.
Vieux Carre: Famous from the Carousel Bar in New Orleans, this cocktail might just be one of the most well-balanced and delightful drinks you’ll ever taste. ¾ ounce rye whiskey + ¾ ounce sweet vermouth + ¾ ounce cognac + 2 tsp. Benedictine + 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters + 2 dashes Angostura bitters. Stir all ingredients with ice for 15 seconds, then strain into a chilled lowball glass, either served neat or over one large ice cube. Garnish with a Luxardo cherry.
The Diplomat Cocktail: This is where vermouth truly shines. I discovered this gem one evening after telling the bartender, “I need to entertain myself for an hour without getting too tipsy.” He mixed up this low-proof masterpiece, and now I can’t get enough. 1 ½ ounces dry vermouth + 1 ½ ounces sweet vermouth + ⅛ ounce maraschino liqueur + 2 dashes orange bitters. Stir all ingredients with ice for 15 seconds, then strain into a coupe glass. Express lemon oil from the rind and rub it around the edge of the glass.
If all that seems like too much effort, don’t worry; you can still enjoy this fortified, flavored wine without all the mixing. Just grab a bottle of Punt e Mes, pour it into a glass, and sip away. Side effects may include feeling particularly European.
Photos by Boca Dorada, Edsel Little, Tim Sackton.
