Buzz
These days, a digital thermometer is considered a must-have kitchen tool, right up there with a good knife. Yet, the humble analog thermometers, which do the exact same job for much less, are often overlooked. It’s a real shame.
I have a digital thermometer, which I reserve solely for measuring meat, as I’ve learned that steam can mess with it. This makes sense when you consider that digital tools rely on batteries, which don’t generally work well with water or steam.
Digital tools rely on batteries, which typically don’t handle exposure to water or steam very well.
Unfortunately, I end up measuring the temperature of steaming-hot liquids more than anything else—whether it’s warm water for bread dough, scalded milk for microwave pastry cream, Swiss meringues, custard pie fillings, or similar items. That’s why my candy thermometer is in constant use.
Sure, it might be a little slower and won’t measure to the tenth of a degree, but I’d rather trust a measurement than rely on meaningless precision. (If you think there's a noticeable difference between custard at 185ºF and 185.5ºF, well, there isn’t. Sorry!) Plus, calibrating a dial thermometer is a breeze: all you need is ice water and a wrench.
To illustrate my point, let me share the story of my first Swiss meringue. Not being a total fool, I followed Stella Parks’ recipe, which instructs you to heat the egg whites and sugar in a water bath to 175ºF. I stirred that bowl for an entire hour, constantly checking the temperature, but my digital thermometer refused to register 175ºF. The steam from both the water bath and the meringue was causing it to malfunction, either taking forever to read the temperature or shutting off entirely. I switched to my candy thermometer for the next batch, and the rest was perfect, fluffy history.
I admit, my digital thermometer is an OXO piece of junk I picked up for ten dollars back in 2009, but the original battery is still going strong and it does what I need it to. If I had a Thermapen, maybe I’d think differently. But when my digital thermometer finally gives up the ghost, I won’t be buying a Thermapen or even a cheaper knockoff; I’ll buy a five-dollar dial thermometer and feel fantastic about it.
