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Learn the significance behind shoelace colors in the punk community
In the 1970s, a small group of individuals started lacing their combat boots with specific colors that conveyed deeper meanings about their identity, including their political or social affiliations. While today, most people choose lace colors for their visual appeal, the resurgence of punk culture has kept lace code alive. This guide provides everything you need to know about lace code, from the symbolism of each color to whether it remains in use today.
What exactly is lace code?
Lace code refers to the practice of lace-up patterns in combat boots (often Doc Martens) with symbolic lace colors. Red and white laces typically represent white supremacy, blue laces signal protest against inequality, yellow laces stand for anti-racism, purple laces identify someone as LGBTQ+, while green or black laces are considered neutral.
How to use lace code
What do the different lace code colors represent?
Green—Neutral or environmentalist Green laces serve as a more environmentally conscious alternative to the classic black laces. They also indicate a strong commitment to sustainability and environmental protection.
- In certain groups, green laces may be a nod to Irish heritage.
Pink—Women’s rights Pink laces are commonly associated with feminist movements, and lace code uses them to signal support for women's health and rights.
- Pink laces can also be a symbol of advocacy for LGBTQ+ rights.
Purple—LGBTQ+ or ally During the 1970s, when being openly gay was still risky, purple laces emerged as a discreet way to express one’s sexual orientation.
- Today, purple remains a key color representing the queer community.
Yellow or orange—Anti-racism Yellow and orange laces are often worn by SHARPS (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice). Though their message is firmly anti-racist, they can also carry an aggressive tone—some SHARPS are known for violent activism, making the color potentially contentious.
- Some Doc Martens come with striped yellow and orange laces, and wearing these is generally seen as a neutral stance.
Red—Violence or white supremacy While some individuals simply enjoy the aesthetic of red laces, those who follow lace code often wear them to signify a violent or confrontational stance. Additionally, some anarchist and neo-Nazi groups also adopt red laces as a symbol of affiliation.
- In certain regions, wearing red laces can provoke conflict, particularly with individuals opposed to racism in their communities. If you choose red laces, be cautious about where you wear them.
- In some groups, red laces must be earned through acts of violence.
White—White supremacy Within lace code, white laces can sometimes represent white supremacy or white pride. While many people wear white laces simply because they’re easy to find, it might be wise to consider another color if you wish to avoid this association.
- White laces are often worn by hate groups such as the KKK and neo-Nazis, who share similar ideologies based on racial hatred.
Blue—Cop killer or protesting police brutality Blue laces can be worn as a protest against police brutality, social inequality, and systemic racism. However, they can also carry a darker meaning—within certain groups, blue laces signify that someone has killed a police officer or supports violence against law enforcement.
- SHARPS members occasionally wear blue laces.
- For some, blue laces are a symbol of peace and justice, representing solidarity with marginalized or oppressed communities.
Black—Neutral Black laces are the default for many Doc Martens, and simply keeping the original black laces doesn’t convey any particular message. If you’re aiming for a neutral or non-committal choice, black laces are ideal.
- Ladder-lacing your boots with black laces can further emphasize your neutral stance, as this style is closely tied to lace code.
Is lace code obsolete?
Lace code isn't as prevalent today. Most people choose their lace colors for purely aesthetic reasons. However, in some subcultures, lace code is still taken seriously. If you plan on attending a punk show or a political rally, you may want to opt for a neutral color like black or green to avoid unintended messages.
- In certain regions, red laces are still associated with hate groups, so it's best to steer clear of them if you don't want to be linked to those ideologies.
Can you mix colors in lace code?
While most people don't mix colors, you certainly can. Typically, lace code involves wearing a single color to convey a clear message. However, if you're experimenting with lace code, feel free to combine different colors to create your own statement.
- For example, you could wear purple in one boot and yellow in the other, symbolizing that you're both queer and anti-racist.
Does lace code apply to all shoes?
Lace code is primarily associated with steel-toed work boots. Doc Martens are the most commonly recognized brand, but lace code can apply to any type of boot. In groups where lace code is used to identify members, the code likely still holds even if you're wearing a different shoe style.
- Due to their associations with violence and racism, red laces are often avoided in any shoe type.
How do you lace your shoes for lace code?
Lace code follows a ladder-lacing technique. To ladder lace your shoes, start by threading the lace so the ends come up through the last eyelets (closest to the toe). Then, pull one lace end down through the hole just above it on the same side, and cross it over to go up through the corresponding eyelet on the opposite side.
- Continue with the other lace, following the same process for the second set of eyelets, so that each lace runs parallel in a straight line across the eyelets.
- Repeat this for all the remaining eyelets, working your way up the shoe.
- This style resembles straight-lacing, but with ladder-lacing, the vertical laces are visible, unlike the hidden verticals in straight-lacing.
Final Thoughts
Most people don’t adhere to lace code anymore. Just because someone sports white shoelaces doesn’t automatically mean they hold racist beliefs—today, it's more likely that they simply enjoy the look.
- However, it’s still useful to understand what different lace colors can represent, as in certain areas, a few individuals might still recognize lace code, which could cause issues if you’re wearing the wrong color in the wrong context.
