Buzz
Permanent hair curling is a chemical treatment method designed to add more curl and volume to your hair. The process consists of two main steps: wrapping the hair around curling rods and applying chemical solutions. Although the procedure can take several hours, the results are well worth the effort.
Steps
Preparation and Sectioning
Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo. This step helps remove oil and buildup from your hair, creating a clean base for the curling process. Avoid using conditioner, as it can prevent the curling solution from penetrating effectively. Gently dry your hair with a soft towel or an old t-shirt after washing.
- A protein-rich shampoo is also an excellent choice.
- Your hair should be slightly damp but not soaking wet.
- Brush your hair with a detangling brush before washing, and use a wide-tooth comb after washing.
Wrap a towel around your neck, put on a nylon cape, and wear gloves. You don’t want the perm solution to touch your skin, so take extra care. Start by wrapping a towel around your neck, then put on a cape as you would for a hair dye session, and finally, wear nylon or vinyl gloves.
- You can purchase capes and gloves at salons or beauty supply stores.
- The cape should be made of nylon to prevent the perm solution from seeping through.
- Wearing old clothes that you don’t mind getting stained is also a good idea.
Divide your hair into three sections: one in the middle and two on the sides. Use the pointed end of a comb to part your hair into two side sections and one front section. The middle section should start at the forehead and end at the nape of your neck. Twist the two side sections into buns to keep them out of the way.
- The middle section should be slightly narrower than the perm rod. The width will vary depending on the rod size.
- Consider splitting the top section of your hair in half and twisting the front/top section into a bun as well.
Wrapping the Hair
Take a thin section of hair from the middle part. Use the pointed end of a comb to separate a thin section from the middle part. Stretch the section so it’s perpendicular to your head. Choose a section no wider than the diameter of the perm rod you’re using, as wrapping too much hair will result in loose curls.
- You can start at the front hairline or behind the crown. If you start behind the crown, you’ll need to return to the front section once you reach the nape of your neck.
Fold the end paper around the tip of the hair section. Place an end paper close to the hair section so that half of the paper sticks out. Fold the excess paper under the hair to secure it, then slide the paper toward the ends of the hair.
- You can fold a few end papers in half beforehand. This way, you only need to slide them over the hair and pull down.
Wrap the hair around the perm rod. Place the end of the hair section on top of a perm rod. Roll the hair around the rod until it reaches the scalp, then secure the rod in place.
- Choose a perm rod size that matches the curl size you desire. Remember, larger rods create bigger, looser curls.
- Roll the hair downward, away from the forehead and toward the nape of the neck.
Repeat the process for the entire middle section. If you started behind the crown, roll down to the nape first, then return to the front section. If you began at the hairline, simply roll down to the nape.
- Ensure the entire middle section is neatly wrapped around the perm rods.
Wrap two rows of perm rods on each side. Choose one side to start and prepare everything. Take a vertical section behind the ear and twist the front section into a bun. Add more perm rods horizontally in a vertical row, then roll the front section (the area in front of the ear).
- The ends of the perm rods should touch each other—this includes the curls on the sides and the middle.
- Begin rolling from the top of the side section, just below the middle section, and finish at the hairline.
- By this point, the hair might start to dry while rolling. If this happens, simply spray water on the hair to make it easier to roll.
Wrap cotton strips around the hairline and tuck them under the perm rods. This step is crucial, as it protects your skin from the perm solution. You can purchase cotton strips online or at beauty supply stores, then wrap them around the hairline and tuck them under the rods.
- Cotton strips are not fabric but resemble long strips of cotton, similar to what you see at nail salons.
Applying the Perm Solution
Choose a perm solution based on your hair type and condition. There are two types of perm solutions: alkaline and acid. Depending on your hair type, you’ll need to select one of these. Choosing the wrong type can lead to unsatisfactory results—or even damage your hair.
- Opt for an alkaline solution if your hair is: Asian, coarse, fine, resistant to chemicals, or lacks elasticity.
- Choose an acid solution if your hair is: damaged, prone to breakage, highlighted, colored, or highly elastic.
- Visit a salon if your hair is fully dyed, severely damaged, or if you have African American hair. Select a stylist experienced with your hair type. Ask friends or family for salon recommendations, or search online for a reputable salon in your area.
Puncture the perm solution bottle with a pin. The perm solution comes in a squeezable plastic bottle. While you can cut the tip, it’s better to puncture it with a pin or thumbtack for easier application.
Apply the solution to the perm rods using small circular motions. Start with one section: the middle, left, or right. Hold the bottle above the edge of the rods and squeeze the solution in small circular motions. Work through each curl until the entire section is covered, then move to the next. Use the entire bottle of solution.
- Don’t worry if the solution drips onto the rods. Gravity will pull it down into the hair.
Every few minutes, unwrap a curl to check if it forms an S shape. Wait 5 minutes first, then select a rod and gently unwrap a section. Observe if the curl has formed a tight S shape. If not, rewrap the curl and check again after 2 minutes. If it still hasn’t formed, rewrap and check every minute until it does.
- Avoid waiting 10-15 minutes before checking, as this risks damaging your hair. Processing times vary for everyone.
- Once the curl forms an S shape, you can proceed to the next step.
Rinse your hair for 3 minutes without removing the perm rods. This step is crucial. Keep the rods in place, bend over a sink or stand under a shower, and rinse for 3 minutes.
- The cotton strips will absorb water, so remove them after rinsing.
- If your hair is very thick, let water flow between the rods for a few seconds to ensure all solution is rinsed out.
Let your hair dry while keeping the perm rods in place. Air drying is ideal, but if you’re in a hurry, you can use a blow dryer to speed up the process. Do not remove the rods at this stage.
Apply the neutralizer (also known as the fixative, which stops the perm solution’s action), wait 10 minutes, then rinse for 3 minutes. The application process is similar to applying the perm solution. Since the neutralizer is gentler, you can wait the full 10 minutes without checking your hair. After 10 minutes, rinse your hair for 3 minutes.
- Keep the perm rods in place throughout this entire process.
Let your hair dry, then remove the perm rods. As before, air drying is preferable, but you can use a blow dryer if needed. Once the rods are removed, leave your hair as it is. Avoid brushing to prevent the curls from loosening.
- Use your fingers to gently adjust the curls if necessary.
Caring for Curly Hair
Wait 3 days after perming before washing your hair. This might sound challenging, but it’s crucial. Curly hair doesn’t need frequent washing right after perming. Washing too soon can ruin your results, causing the curls to loosen.
- After 3 days, you can wash your hair twice a week.
Use shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for chemically treated hair. These products will keep your hair soft, smooth, and help maintain the curls longer. Always use conditioner after shampooing; occasionally switch to a deep conditioner. Natural deep conditioners like argan oil are excellent choices.
- Moisturizing products that enhance curls are a great option.
- Avoid products containing silicone and alcohol. Silicone can make hair greasy, while alcohol can dry it out.
Avoid styling or brushing your hair with a hairbrush for a week. You can gently use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to detangle, but wait at least a week before using a hairbrush. More importantly, leave your hair untouched during this period—no curling, straightening, high ponytails, braids, etc.
- Use a silk scarf to wrap your hair while sleeping to prevent frizz and maintain curl definition.
Limit heat styling, including blow-drying and straightening. Whenever possible, let your hair air dry. If you must use a blow dryer, wait until your hair is 90% dry, then use a diffuser attachment. Avoid straightening if you can.
- If straightening is necessary, use a heat protectant and keep the heat setting low.
Wait at least 2 weeks before dyeing your hair again. Dyeing too soon can not only risk further damage but also cause your curls to loosen. However, after 2 weeks, you can treat your hair as usual—dye, bleach, or even add highlights.
- Remember that bleaching and dyeing are not recommended. Perming is already a strong process, and bleaching or highlighting can be equally harsh, leading to additional damage.
- Some stylists recommend waiting a month before dyeing, bleaching, or highlighting.
Tips
- If your hair has many split ends, trim it beforehand. Trimming becomes harder after perming.
- Spray a volumizing product at the roots as your hair grows, then blow-dry close to the scalp to add volume.
- Avoid resting your head on any surface immediately after perming, as it can leave permanent marks on your curls.
- When visiting a salon, clearly communicate your desired look in detail. Bring a photo from a magazine or save it on your phone to show the stylist.
- Red hair is often resistant to chemicals, so a stronger solution may be needed. Consult an experienced stylist before purchasing any products.
Warnings
- Over-perming can damage your hair, making it brittle and thin. Consult a professional stylist if this occurs.
- If your scalp feels a burning sensation during the perm process, rinse the solution off immediately.
What You'll Need
- Clarifying shampoo
- Perm kit (perm solution and neutralizer)
- Old clothes
- Old towel
- Nylon cape
- Nylon gloves
- Clips
- 25 to 35 perm rods
- 25 to 35 end papers
