How to Care for a Long-Tailed Parrot

Decide if you prefer the classic budgerigar or choose from the many other types of long-tailed parrots available. Consider species like the yellow-faced parrot, pink-necked parrot, or black-tailed parrot, or any species that is available in your region. Budgerigars originate from Australia, making them the most cost-effective option for Australians looking to own a long-tailed parrot. Other long-tailed parrot species from South America, Africa, and Asia can also be kept as pets with the right environment and equipment (such as toys).

Choose a reputable parrot seller. Just like selecting any other pet, it's important to purchase your parrot from a trusted seller. Check online reviews to see feedback. Request to view other birds the seller has to ensure they are kept in a clean, spacious, and comfortable environment with proper care.

• Make sure the birds are not overcrowded on their perches, and their food should be fresh and high-quality, including fresh fruits and vegetables. You should also check if there is a mineral block or cuttlebone in the cage. These are important for their diet.

Find a bright-eyed, active parrot. Ensure that the base of the beak (the area above the beak) is free of hard crust, and the vent area should be clean. The vent is where the bird expels waste, and a dirty vent can indicate digestive issues. Avoid parrots that appear lethargic or stay at the bottom of the cage.

• Ensure the bird looks comfortable, lively, and in good health. You may also want to check on the birds at different times of the day, as long-tailed parrots sometimes take short naps and may look sleepy during the day.

Consider adopting a pair of parrots. Long-tailed parrots are social creatures and prefer to live in pairs or groups. If you decide to keep just one, you will need to spend time with it daily to fulfill its social needs.

• If you choose to keep multiple birds, be sure to only keep long-tailed parrots together and avoid mixing them with other species in the same cage.

Take your newly bought parrot to the vet. Even if your parrot appears healthy, it may not show symptoms of illness until the condition is severe. Therefore, it’s important to take your bird to the vet right after purchasing it. The vet will check for psittacosis, a dangerous bacterial infection that can be transmitted to humans. The vet will also inspect for external and internal parasites, yeast, macro-rhabdus fungi, and other types of bacteria.

Buy an appropriately sized cage. The minimum recommended cage dimensions should be at least 45cm x 60cm x 60cm. However, if possible, opt for the largest cage you can find. Focus on the horizontal measurement, as long-tailed parrots tend to fly more horizontally than vertically.

Choose a cage made of stainless steel or non-galvanized metal. The birdcage should be made of stainless steel. Unfortunately, many other metals like zinc, brass, or lead can poison long-tailed parrots, and you should avoid cages that are rusted or peeling paint. Never buy a round cage, as it doesn't provide enough space for the bird to fly, and the narrow bars near the top can injure the small feet of the long-tailed parrot.

Select a cage with horizontal bars. Long-tailed parrots love to climb, so a cage with horizontal bars will allow them to grasp and hop around. The spacing between the bars should be less than 1.2 cm, otherwise, the bird's head could get stuck between the bars.

Line the bottom of the cage to maintain cleanliness. You can line the cage bottom with paper towels or printing paper, both of which are better than using newspaper. When the paper gets dirty or stained with bird droppings, simply replace it with fresh paper.

Attach food bowls and a water bottle. Birds need both a food bowl and a water bottle. You can secure them to the bars of the cage, raising them off the bottom to prevent spillage and contamination from droppings.

• If you house multiple long-tailed parrots in one cage, make sure each one has its own food bowl to prevent competition and ensure all the birds can eat freely.

Equip the birdcage with branches. It is best to use natural fruit tree branches. Ideally, the branches should be wide enough so that the bird’s toes aren’t tangled or overlapping, with about a 1cm diameter being just right. Branches from fruit trees like apple, plum, pear, or cherry are safe for birds to peck at, and they also serve to help the bird naturally file its claws.

• Many of the branches that come with birdcages are poorly designed for birds. Their diameter is too small, making it difficult for the birds to perch comfortably or file their claws.

Provide toys for the bird. Long-tailed parrots are curious and energetic, requiring plenty of mental stimulation. Add some toys to the cage to keep them entertained. Popular toys for long-tailed parrots include mirrors, bells, or climbing ladders.

• Toys are essential for keeping your bird healthy and happy. A bored bird may become noisy and agitated.

Place the birdcage in a room where you spend a lot of time to fulfill the bird’s social needs. Long-tailed parrots feel safer when they have a retreat, so it’s a good idea to place the cage against a wall (so they don’t feel exposed on all sides). Avoid placing the cage near windows or doors where direct sunlight or drafts could bother the bird, as parrots are very sensitive to temperature.

• Never place the birdcage in the kitchen. Fumes from cooking oil – and even the coating on some frying pans – can be toxic to long-tailed parrots and may cause serious health issues.

Clean the entire birdcage. Simply replacing the paper at the bottom of the cage is not enough. You should regularly wash the bars of the cage with soap and water, especially when food is attached to them.

Feed the bird primarily with pellet-based food. Although seeds are a common food choice for long-tailed parrots in the wild, they are also a breeding ground for bacteria that can harm their health and reduce their lifespan. Bacteria can accumulate and gradually cause illness. It’s advisable to transition to a diet consisting of 60-70% pellets. Parrots adapt to pellets at varying rates, and some may initially refuse. However, about 90% of long-tailed parrots will adapt within two weeks using the following approach:

• Allow the parrot to eat seeds only for one hour in the morning and one hour in the evening.
• For the remaining hours, provide pellet food.
• Generally, 10% of parrots that don't adapt within two weeks will do so after a brief return to a seed-based diet.

Supplement the parrot's diet with a mix of seeds, fresh fruits, and vegetables. In addition to seeds, feed your parrot a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables like kale, beets, beans, carrots, parsley, cooked sweet potatoes, sliced apples, oranges, mandarins, and other citrus fruits. Avoid giving the same food two days in a row to prevent the parrot from overconsuming any one ingredient.

• Try attaching pieces of apple or carrot to the bars of the cage for the parrot to peck at. Larger fruits and veggies can be chopped and placed in the bird's food bowl.
• Most fresh fruits and vegetables are safe for long-tailed parrots, EXCEPT avocado, eggplant, apple seeds, rhubarb, tomato leaves, and potato leaves. Never feed the parrot foods containing caffeine, chocolate, or alcohol.

Change the food and water bowls daily. To help your parrot become familiar with you and its environment, focus on maintaining the food and water routine, and cleaning the cage before attempting to train the parrot to perch on your finger.

Treat your parrot to millet spray. Millet sprays are a favorite of parrots, but don't overfeed them (limit to around 1.3 cm per day), as they are high in calories like junk food. Avoid sugary foods or excessive oats, as both can contribute to obesity.

• Millet sprays are also one of the most effective tools for training your long-tailed parrot to perch on your finger.

Engage with your parrot. Long-tailed parrots require companionship, so be ready to spend at least 90 minutes daily interacting with your bird, though not necessarily continuously. You can also train the parrot with a clicker, which is a fun way to stimulate its mind and strengthen your bond.

• If a parrot doesn't get enough attention, it may lose interest in interacting with people. A pair of parrots usually bond with each other (regardless of gender) and may ignore humans, but you can become part of the flock by interacting with them.
• Another way to engage is by singing with your parrot, bathing it, and picking up toys it drops. It might be trying to play with you.
• Sometimes long-tailed parrots feel lonely. To cheer them up, talk to them.
• To train your parrot to step onto your finger, offer it a treat and say “Step up.” Keep repeating this phrase, and the parrot will imitate and step up when prompted, often saying the phrase while climbing stairs.

Occasionally let your parrot out of its cage. Although the bird can fly within the cage, it's beneficial to let it fly freely outside once a day. However, ensure the environment is safe by closing windows and doors, turning off candles, and removing any other potential hazards. Clicker training is a great method to help your parrot respond to commands when it's time to return to its cage.

• There are many things that may seem harmless but can be dangerous to your parrot. Before letting your bird out of the cage, remember not only to close the windows but also to clear away any sharp objects like knives in the kitchen, turn off fans, and avoid allowing the parrot to be near children or other pets. A safer environment is always better for your bird.

Ensure your parrot gets proper sleep. A parrot typically sleeps around 10 hours a day, mostly at night, but it may take naps during the day as well. While your parrot is sleeping, try to keep noise levels to a minimum; however, quiet background noise like soft music or TV is okay.

• At night, parrots prefer the comfort of being covered, so consider draping a cloth or pillowcase over their cage to provide them with a sense of safety.

Maintain the right temperature. Parrots are sensitive to drastic temperature changes. They thrive in average indoor temperatures, but ensure that the cage has a sheltered area where they can retreat. Avoid placing the cage where direct sunlight can heat it up, and try not to let the temperature exceed 27°C.

Be dedicated to your parrot. Caring for a parrot requires effort, but the reward is a loving and entertaining companion. Most parrots can talk, and how much they learn depends largely on your involvement. Be ready to care for them, train them, and give them attention and playtime; otherwise, it might be best to consider another hobby.

• If you're frequently away from home, it's important to ensure your parrot has company. Otherwise, it may feel lonely, which wouldn't be fair to such a social creature. In the wild, parrots live in flocks with many members. You can play music when you're not home, even setting it on a timer. Soft music helps your parrot stay calm when adjusting to a new environment.
• Only fill the food bowl with enough seeds to cover the bottom. This way, you can control the amount of food your parrot eats without wasting any. This also prevents your parrot from rummaging through the food and making a mess.
• When bringing a new parrot home, take it to a veterinarian for an initial health checkup and schedule annual checkups. Keep the new bird separate to prevent potential illness transmission until you’re sure it’s healthy.
• Never allow your parrot to look out the window. It could fly into the glass and injure itself.
• There are various types of "pellet food" for parrots with different flavors. You can try offering your parrot different types to see which one it prefers. Some resemble rabbit food, others are round and shaped like seeds, while some are powdery or even look like crumbs. These foods come in various sizes, and you can crush larger pellets into smaller pieces or even powder them to see what your bird likes.
• You can hang ropes or decorations at the window and/or around a fenced area, allowing your parrot to climb and play outside its cage. It’s also advisable to buy a playset for your parrot so they can play when you're busy, but always keep an eye on them.
• Trim your parrot's wings to prevent it from flying freely when its feathers are fully grown. Be cautious with pin feathers, which have an outer layer and contain blood inside. Trim their nails when they grow long and sharp. You can even file their beak using a nail file. Ask an avian vet for more details.
• Never play loud music near your parrot or make sudden movements around it.
• Never allow your parrot outside, unless it’s in a secure cage.
• Never buy a parrot and leave it with someone else while you go away. The parrot will bond with the caretaker and see them as its new owner.
• Never let your parrot out of its cage unless it’s safely inside a cage outside.
• Never poke or disturb your parrot.

• The sap from evergreen plants is toxic to tropical birds. If you have a Christmas wreath or a Christmas tree in your home, keep your bird in another room, far from even the scent of these plants. Birds may be attracted to the shiny ornaments, so take extra caution.
• Birds often instinctively hide illness to avoid appearing vulnerable to predators, so be vigilant for any strange behavior or lethargy in your parrot. By the time symptoms appear, the bird has usually been sick for a while. You should take the bird to the vet. Birds have a fast metabolism, and their condition can deteriorate rapidly if not properly cared for. Early detection and treatment are crucial.
• Always verify that any branches you plan to use for your parrot to perch on are safe and non-toxic. Many plants are poisonous!
• Never feed your parrot chocolate, avocado, coffee, or salt. These are toxic to them.
• If you give your parrot a bath, ensure you dry it off with a towel afterward. The rule of thumb is to avoid bathing your bird after 7 p.m., so it has enough time to dry off before bedtime.
• Take precautions to ensure your bird doesn’t escape. This means trimming their wings, reminding your household members, securing windows, and being vigilant. If a parrot escapes outdoors, it is almost certain to die from exposure and confusion.
• Never open a window when your parrot is out of its cage, as it may fly out.
• Don’t be alarmed if your female parrot enters a nesting box—it might be laying eggs. Leave her undisturbed as disturbing her could cause her to break the eggs.
• Tropical birds typically inhabit shaded areas under forest canopies, so provide your parrot with a cool, shaded spot when it's too hot. Avoid placing their cage in direct sunlight on hot days.
• Never leave your parrot around dogs or cats, no matter how friendly they seem. Dogs and cats have an instinct to hunt and kill birds.
• Seeds are often stored in food bins where rodents come to feed and leave behind droppings. Even after washing, bacteria can remain and cannot be eliminated through freezing or microwaving.

• Water
• Toys
• Food
• Cuttlefish bone
• Mineral blocks
• Birdcage
• Millet spray (necessary for training your bird to step up onto your finger or perch)