How to Care for a Rabbit

Buy an appropriately sized cage. For a rabbit weighing around 4 kg, the cage should be at least 1.2 meters long, 60 cm wide, and 60 cm tall. The rabbit must have enough space to stretch out, move around, and have enough room for food, water, and a litter box.

• You can purchase an outdoor rabbit hutch or even build your own. The hutch should have enough space for the rabbit to lie down, roam around, and have room for food, water, and a litter box.
• Consider buying a fenced area to give your rabbit more space to run.
• Larger rabbits need even more space. They must be able to move comfortably and stretch out. Be sure to get a spacious cage that allows your rabbit to play!
• Some people prefer to let their rabbit roam freely. This means providing a large area or even the whole house, similar to how dogs or cats are kept. This is the best way to care for a rabbit since it gives them plenty of space to explore, but be mindful to protect your furniture from chewing and avoid spending money on an actual cage.

Choose the right cage. Look for a cage specifically designed for rabbits, with a solid floor and sides made from wire mesh suitable for rabbits. Think of this as your rabbit's 'home,' where it sleeps and stores its food and water. Your rabbit should spend about 8-12 hours daily outside the cage in a fenced area or a safe space to explore.

• If the cage you buy has a wire floor, line it with a sturdy wooden board to prevent injury to the rabbit's feet. A wire floor can harm the rabbit.
• Don’t keep a rabbit alone in an outdoor cage. Rabbits are social creatures, so it’s best to find a companion for your rabbit while they’re still young and have them neutered.

Line the cage with hay or softwood shavings, like pine. You can also use recycled wood bedding, which is excellent for lining the cage. Rabbits enjoy making cozy nests, so lining the bottom of the cage with soft, natural materials will ensure they feel comfortable.

• In addition to being bedding material, hay is a crucial part of your rabbit’s diet. Be sure to select the right hay for your rabbit. Timothy hay and dried grass are great choices. Avoid alfalfa hay as it contains high levels of calories, protein, and calcium, which is not suitable for most adult rabbits over the long term.

Place the cage in a safe area for the rabbit. Since rabbits need room to hop around, choose a room where you don’t mind sharing the space with your rabbit and that is safe for them. Remove any electrical cords, small objects, or expensive furniture from the area, and avoid placing harmful chemicals or plants in the room.

• Rabbits love to chew on electrical cords, but you can buy protective tubing to prevent this.
• Use baby gates or playpens to keep dogs out of the room and protect your rabbit from any potential harm.

Set up a litter box for your rabbit. Rabbits naturally tend to use the bathroom in the same spot, usually in a corner of their cage. Place some newspaper at the bottom of a small box (available at pet stores), add hay on top, or use rabbit-specific straw, and place the box in the corner where your rabbit likes to go.

• Consider placing an additional litter box in your rabbit’s play area.

Create a hiding spot for your rabbit in the cage. Rabbits are prey animals and naturally dig burrows for protection. Provide them with hiding spots like wooden logs or cardboard boxes where they can retreat and feel secure. You can provide one or two hiding places for each rabbit, depending on the size of the cage.

Place a few cardboard boxes for the rabbit to play, hide, and chew on. Rabbits enjoy chewing, and this helps keep their teeth healthy. If you don’t provide them with something to chew on as a snack, they might chew on your furniture or other items around the house.

• Ensure the rabbit always has something safe to chew. Chewing helps trim the rabbit’s teeth and prevents injury.

Always provide hay. Hay is the main component of a rabbit's diet, so it should always be available to them. Suitable types include meadow hay, oat hay, and brome. Provide fresh hay daily, placing it in a clean area within the rabbit’s cage.

• For young rabbits (under 7 months), pregnant or nursing rabbits, offer them alfalfa hay or pellets for additional calories required during these stages of growth.
• Hay is available at pet stores or you can grow a tray of grass specifically for your rabbit.

Feed your rabbit hay-based pellets. These pellets contain the necessary proteins and fibers for growing rabbits. Adult rabbits require around 30g of pellets for every 2.5kg of their body weight.

• Rabbits are herbivores, and a diet of just hay and vegetables can lead to weight gain. Pellets are more energy-dense than hay, so reduce the quantity when feeding.
• Remember that rabbits cannot live solely on pellets. Long-fibered hay plays an essential role in their digestion, helping prevent hairballs and keeping the digestive system healthy and stable. Chewing hay also helps wear down their teeth, preventing dental issues, as rabbit teeth grow continuously.
• Rabbits under 6-7 months of age can freely consume alfalfa-based pellets.

Provide plenty of vegetables for your rabbit. Rabbits are known to enjoy carrots, but only give them occasionally, as they are high in sugar. Always wash vegetables thoroughly, and if possible, offer your rabbit organic vegetables.

• Offer leafy greens such as spinach, dandelion leaves, and kale. Also, parsley, watercress, celery, and dandelion leaves are all good for rabbits.
• 250g of fresh vegetables per day is sufficient for an adult rabbit.
• Gradually introduce different vegetables to avoid digestive upset. For rabbits over 12 weeks old, add a new type of vegetable each week, offering about 250g at a time to prevent digestive issues.
• You can also treat your rabbit to fruits like apples, blueberries, strawberries, and bananas. Fruits are high in sugar and should be offered in moderation, around 30-60g for every 3kg of the rabbit’s body weight.

Avoid feeding your rabbit foods that are harmful to them. Some foods are not suitable for rabbits, such as corn, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, and rhubarb. You should also refrain from giving rabbits bamboo shoots, nuts, grains, or any type of meat.

• Do not feed rabbits human food like bread, chocolate, candy, milk, or any cooked foods.
• Never feed rabbits iceberg lettuce as it can cause death due to diarrhea and digestive issues by disrupting beneficial bacteria in the gut. Romaine lettuce is the safest option, but it’s best to ensure it’s organic and thoroughly washed before feeding it to your rabbit.
• You can allow your rabbit to graze on grass in your garden, letting them freely choose and eat the plants growing there, provided no pesticides or herbicides have been used. However, avoid cutting the grass with a machine, as it may become crushed, hot, and fermented, which can lead to digestive issues for your rabbit.

Ensure your rabbit always has access to fresh water. Clean water should always be available for your rabbit and changed daily. You can offer water in a bowl or a water bottle designed for animals like hamsters, but adjusted to suit your rabbit’s size. Bowls can easily be tipped over, so ensure they are stable and clean them regularly to prevent contamination.

• If using a water bottle, make sure it’s functioning properly and doesn’t get clogged when opening or closing.

Introduce a new rabbit gradually. When bringing a new rabbit home, place them in a cage or pen where they can familiarize themselves with their new environment. Don’t rush to approach or play with the rabbit right away, as it hasn’t yet adjusted, doesn’t know you, and may not trust you.

• Approach the new rabbit gently and slowly so it doesn’t become frightened. Rabbits are timid and have poor vision, so it’s a good idea to announce your presence by speaking before approaching.
• Do not approach the rabbit when it is focused on something or resting. Interrupting its calm state may startle the rabbit.

Let your rabbit spend a few hours outside every day (6-8 hours if possible). Rabbits love to hop around, and it’s essential to allocate time each day for them to exercise and stay healthy. You can either play with the rabbit or let it play on its own (but always supervise). However, don’t neglect other essential aspects of rabbit care.

• Ensure the rabbit is enclosed within a fence that is at least 30 cm deep and 90 cm high, or use a harness designed for rabbits.
• If you plan to play with your rabbit outdoors, make sure it’s within a securely fenced area, and never leave the rabbit unattended.
• Always be vigilant for predators like cats, dogs, and birds of prey, ensuring they cannot reach the rabbit.

Provide your rabbit with plenty of toys. Rabbits love to chew on cardboard boxes and old phone books. You can also engage with your rabbit by tossing them a small ball or a soft stuffed toy.

• You can place various toys around your home, such as a piece of PVC pipe, an old towel (for chewing or scratching), a plush bear (remove any eyes or small items that could cause choking), and uninflated balloons. You certainly wouldn’t want to hear a “pop” when your rabbit plays with the balloon, startling both you and the rabbit.

Handle your rabbit gently. Rabbits have fragile bodies and should be lifted with care. Place one hand under their hindquarters, another in front, and hold them close to your chest. Never pick them up by their ears.

• Most rabbits enjoy being petted.
• Avoid lifting them roughly or petting them when they show signs of discomfort. Rabbits can become stressed if they feel uneasy.

Spend quality time bonding with your rabbit. Gaining your rabbit's affection may take a little time. They enjoy being petted and are particularly fond of gentle ear scratches, but surprisingly, they don’t like being picked up often. This is because they prefer staying in their comfortable space and may feel exposed (especially when first brought home).

• Don’t get discouraged if your rabbit nips or scratches when you try to pet them initially. This is common when adopting a new rabbit. Stay calm, gentle, and patient, and avoid getting frustrated with yourself or the rabbit. Keep trying, and once you’ve earned their trust, reward them with something like an apple to show they’ve done well.
• Once you’ve established a bond, try to interact with them as much as possible. This helps nurture a happy and wonderful relationship, as rabbits are playful and curious, and they will reciprocate the love you’ve shown them.

Maintain daily playtime with your rabbit. This will be the time your rabbit looks forward to each day. Set aside a bit of time to bond and let your rabbit get some exercise.

Consider adopting multiple rabbits at once. Rabbits are social creatures and enjoy playing with their kind. Raising two rabbits is no more demanding than caring for just one, so it might be a good idea to add another rabbit to ensure both are happy.

• Make sure all rabbits are spayed or neutered, especially if they will be kept in the same cage.
• Ensure that the new rabbit is compatible with the one you already have.
• If you plan to adopt more than one rabbit, try to get those from the same litter so they are the same age and size. Spay or neuter them immediately to prevent unwanted baby rabbits and to avoid hormone-driven behaviors that can be troublesome.

Introduce a new rabbit slowly to the one already in your care. It's essential to allow them to adjust gradually to avoid conflicts. Rabbits can also be territorial. A male and a female rabbit, or two females, tend to get along better than two males, unless they are still young.

• Place both rabbits in separate cages in a neutral location for a few days and monitor their behavior. If they fight or become agitated, separate them and wait for a few days before trying again, keeping an eye on them. Use tasty vegetables to distract them and encourage bonding during the introduction.
• Gradually reduce the distance between their cages until they are next to each other without causing aggression. Once they are peacefully living side by side in their respective cages, maintain this setup for at least a week.
• Then, place them in a pen with barriers between them. If things go smoothly, remove the barriers for brief meetings under supervision. Offer some delicious treats to enhance the experience. If they sit next to each other and groom one another, it indicates they're living harmoniously.

Clean your rabbit's cage every week. Always keep an eye on them while you're cleaning. Remove any soiled hay or bedding from the cage, wash it with warm soapy water, rinse it thoroughly, and let it dry before adding fresh bedding.

• Clean your rabbit's water bowl or bottle daily.
• Change the litter tray every day, and disinfect it thoroughly with a mixture of water and 10% white vinegar weekly. Rinse and dry it. If the tray is made of plastic or metal, you can also use a dishwasher.
• Consider buying extra litter trays so you always have a clean one available when cleaning the current one.
• Rabbit urine is highly alkaline, and crystals can form on the surface of the tray, so use a cleaner that is effective at removing residues.

Maintain an optimal temperature for your rabbit. The ideal temperature for rabbits is between 16 to 22°C. If they are kept outdoors, ensure there is plenty of shade, and if it gets too hot, bring them inside with air conditioning or place some ice bottles in their cage to keep them cool. Rabbits can die from heat shock.

• A rabbit's ears help regulate its body temperature.
• In the wild, rabbits dig into the ground to find a cool place to escape the heat.

Brushing Your Rabbit's Fur. Never bathe your rabbit, but you can gently brush its fur once or twice a day with a soft brush. If you have two rabbits, you'll notice them grooming each other.

• Rabbits don’t need baths unless they are extremely dirty and unable to clean themselves properly.

Take Your Rabbit to the Vet at Least Once a Year. Rabbits need an annual health check to ensure they are healthy. Many veterinarians who specialize in dogs and cats may not have experience with rabbits, so you may need to find one who specializes in exotic animals.

• Depending on where you live, the vet might recommend vaccines such as the Myxomatosis vaccine, which protects against a viral disease in rabbits if you're in the UK. In the US, this vaccine is not recommended.
• The vet will examine your rabbit and discuss any signs they detect, offering solutions based on the rabbit’s health. To properly check your rabbit's teeth, the vet may need to sedate your rabbit to inspect its full set of teeth and address any sharp points in the molars or premolars.

Learn Your Rabbit's Body Language. Understanding how your rabbit feels is crucial to ensuring your pet is happy and healthy.

• If your rabbit’s ears are flattened against its back, its eyes bulge, and its body is tense or hunched, it is a sign of fear. If the rabbit is really scared, it may tremble and breathe rapidly.
• If your rabbit feels comfortable, it will lie down with its legs extended or tuck its paws underneath its body. It may also lie on its side with its ears relaxed against its back.
• When a rabbit is very happy or excited, it might hop and shake its body. Many rabbits will run in circles before hopping. However, if your rabbit is lazy, it might not hop but will shake its body while lying down.

• You can purchase a rabbit harness to take your rabbit on walks.
• Some useful books for rabbit care include: House Rabbit Handbook, How to Live with an Urban Rabbit by Marinell Harriman, The Rabbit Handbook, second edition by Karen Parker D.V.M., and The Everything Pet Rabbit Handbook: Your Ultimate Guide to Pet Rabbit Ownership, Training, and Care by Sarah Martin.
• Always be kind, gentle, and calm with your rabbit. Yelling or punishing your rabbit will not help. Instead, reward good behavior.
• Rabbits should have their nails trimmed every one or two months, depending on their activity level and living conditions.
• For your rabbit’s safety, keep dogs and cats away from its living area and prevent them from interacting with your rabbit.
• When buying a rabbit, make sure it looks healthy. Check its eyes, ears, and nose for cleanliness and lack of discharge. Its front teeth should be even, and its coat should be smooth and clean. The underside of its paws should be free from injury or redness. Pick the rabbit up and gently pet it to ensure it is comfortable being handled.
• If you're planning to name your rabbit, train it to recognize its name!
• Never pick up a rabbit by its ears, even if it refuses to go into its cage. This can hurt the rabbit’s ears. It’s better to lure it gently than to harm it.
• Rabbits may bite if they feel threatened or agitated.
• If your rabbit refuses to go into its cage, try offering it a treat.
• Be patient if your rabbit seems scared when first bonding with you (one of my rabbits took three weeks to get comfortable with me). It’s totally worth the effort! And a neutered rabbit behaves very differently.

Before training, my two rabbits used to urinate everywhere, but now they have excellent litter box habits... rabbits make wonderful pets!

• Rabbits come in many different personalities: some are easily startled, others are lazy, and some are a mix of both. Never force a rabbit to play if it seems uninterested.
• Ensure that your rabbit's outdoor play area is secure, as rabbits can slip through tiny gaps, and once they run and hide, they can be difficult to catch. Also, make sure predators like dogs and cats cannot access the area.
• Rabbits may bite or scratch. If a rabbit bite punctures the skin, you must seek medical attention.
• Do not apply flea treatments to your rabbit. If your rabbit has fleas, consult with a veterinarian.
• Be extremely cautious not to drop the rabbit. Although they can jump high, dropping a rabbit in a vulnerable spot or from a height can result in serious injuries or even death.
• Beware of predators. They can be very persistent when they sense a potential meal, and a thin wire mesh may not be enough to keep them out. Consider covering the outside of the rabbit's hutch at night, as rabbits can suffer heart attacks just from seeing a predator.
• Never bathe your rabbit; they can suffer from hypothermia or even a heatstroke.

• A rabbit cage with a sturdy bottom
• Wood shavings
• Newspapers
• Dry hay or alfalfa
• Fresh leafy greens
• Pellet food
• Rabbit chew toys
• A portable carrier
• A litter tray
• A water bottle
• Special treats for your rabbit
• A rabbit brush or small cat brush