Guinea pigs are available in various species, and most of them have a lifespan of about two to three years. These creatures are nocturnal, meaning they typically sleep throughout the day. However, the Dwarf Guinea Pig is more active around twilight, with its peak activity occurring just before sunset. To ensure that your guinea pig remains happy and healthy, it's important to feed them properly, provide sufficient playtime/exercise, and regularly clean their cage.
Steps
Buy a Guinea Pig

Find a place to buy guinea pigs. If you're looking for this adorable four-legged companion, visit a pet store, reach out to a guinea pig breeder (if you're seeking one with a specific coat color), or check out animal rescue organizations to find one. Guinea pigs are fairly inexpensive, but you will spend much more on their toys, cage, and healthcare needs.
- Guinea pigs are relatively affordable. However, the costs for toys, cages, and medical care will add up significantly.

Choose a healthy guinea pig. A healthy guinea pig should have clean ears, a dry and clean tail, a small, rounded belly without any bald spots or lumps (except for the scent glands on their thighs, which some may mistake for cuts or scabs), bright and clear eyes, and strong teeth that are not overly long or curving upwards.

Consider the size of the guinea pig you want to keep. The Syrian guinea pig can grow to a length of 13-18 cm when fully grown. The Dwarf Campbell and Dwarf Winter White varieties reach around 7.5 – 10 cm. The Chinese guinea pig can grow up to 10-13 cm in length, while the Roborovski species only grows to about 7.5 cm when fully matured.

Think about the color of the guinea pig. Syrian guinea pigs are usually golden, but they can come in a variety of other colors. Dwarf Campbell guinea pigs are typically brown-gray with black stripes along their backs and white bellies. The Dwarf Winter White variety has white fur with gray or lilac tones. The Dwarf Roborovski guinea pigs are brown with a white belly, and the Chinese guinea pig is a deep brown with a cream-colored belly.

Request to hold the guinea pig in the palm of your hand. If the seller or breeder (depending on where you’re buying from) refuses to let you pick the guinea pig up, ask them to place the guinea pig in the palm of their hand. Avoid buying aggressive guinea pigs that scratch or bite. Also, don't buy one that is overly frightened and runs away to hide. A guinea pig that is curious enough to sniff but not immediately jump into your hand is a good choice. Guinea pigs that gently nibble your hand (similar to how puppies often do) are also great options.
Prepare a new home for the guinea pig

Choose the right cage. Guinea pigs thrive in cages with a minimum area of 0.3 m2, or 76x38 cm. The height should be above 30 cm to accommodate a properly sized wheel, around 25-30 cm for Syrian guinea pigs and 20 cm for Dwarf guinea pigs. Glass aquariums (as long as they meet the minimum area requirement) make excellent homes for guinea pigs. However, they lack ventilation, so be sure to use a mesh lid to ensure airflow.
- The IKEA Detolf cage is a great option. Another good choice is a guinea pig cage that uses a “cat litter tray with a mesh top” for excellent natural ventilation.
- Avoid placing the cage in direct sunlight as the glass aquarium can amplify the heat, potentially overheating your guinea pig. Aquariums can be expensive, especially when buying new.
- You can also purchase a wire cage, which provides excellent ventilation as long as it’s large enough for your guinea pig.
- Many people enjoy making their own cages, which is both fun and cost-effective. One of the cheapest and most popular options is to use a trash bin, adding mesh to the lid.

Place the cage in a safe location. Ensure proper airflow around the cage. Do not place your guinea pig's cage directly in front of a window where the temperature can get too high. Look for a quiet spot away from other pets, such as dogs and cats, to reduce stress for your guinea pig. Never allow dogs or cats to interact with guinea pigs.

Make sure your guinea pig can't escape. You will be amazed by the escape skills of guinea pigs. Ensure all gaps are sealed, and that no parts of the cage can come loose, creating an escape route. Make sure the bars are close enough together (no more than 0.7 cm apart) so your guinea pig can’t slip through or get stuck.

Understand guinea pigs' territorial instincts. Syrian guinea pigs are solitary by nature. Their territorial instincts begin to emerge around 5-8 weeks of age, and they will fight fiercely with other guinea pigs if placed together. Many Dwarf guinea pig breeds can coexist peacefully if introduced at a young age.
- Three Dwarf guinea pig species (Campbell's Russian dwarf, Winter White Dwarf, and Roborovski) can live alone or in pairs if properly bonded. Do not mix different guinea pig species. Mating pairs should not be housed together for extended periods, as they may fight and injure each other.

Prepare bedding for your guinea pig's cage. The bedding should be at least 7.5 cm thick. While this might seem like a lot, guinea pigs dig large tunnels in the wild and may not dig if the bedding is too thin. Even if your guinea pig doesn't show signs of digging, it’s wise to provide a thick layer of bedding just in case.
- Avoid using wood shavings from certain types of wood, such as pine and cedar, as they can cause health issues. These woods can lead to respiratory problems and contain toxic oils. However, bedding made from fallen birch leaves is safe and contains no harmful oils.
- Never use cotton bedding for guinea pigs. Cotton is dangerous because guinea pigs cannot digest it, and the fibers can wrap around their feet, cutting off circulation and potentially causing fatal harm.
Provide food and water

Feed your guinea pig daily. Guinea pigs should have commercial pellets instead of seed mixes or muesli-based foods to ensure they get proper nutrition and to prevent picky eating habits. Provide enough food to fill both cheeks, around 15 g for Syrian guinea pigs or 8 g for Dwarf guinea pigs. Be sure to replace the food with fresh supplies daily.
- If you want to change your guinea pig’s diet, wait a few weeks after bringing them home before introducing new food. Gradually increase the new food over 10 days. Guinea pigs are natural hoarders, so they will hide their food in secret spots. They can get stressed if you take their hidden food away. If you’re concerned about the food they’ve hidden, replace it in the areas they’ve stored it.
- Choose ceramic or metal bowls for your guinea pig’s food. These materials are the best since guinea pigs tend to chew on plastic bowls.

Always provide water for your guinea pig. Guinea pigs don’t drink a lot of water, but it’s essential they have access to fresh water when they are thirsty. Avoid using a bowl as it will get dirty quickly, and your guinea pig might get wet, which could be dangerous. Instead, use a water bottle designed for guinea pigs. Change the water daily or at least every three days. You can clean the water bottle by shaking it with a bit of rice and water, which will scrub off any algae. Be sure to empty out the rice before refilling with fresh water and placing it back in the cage.

Use fortified pellets or block food. Mixed seed foods encourage guinea pigs to pick out the tastier, less nutritious bits. It’s better to feed your guinea pig pellets or blocks as the primary diet, and only offer a small amount of mixed seeds as a supplement. Make sure your guinea pig consumes a significant amount of pellets before offering the seeds.

Scatter food around the cage and hide it in toys or tunnels. Encourage your guinea pig to forage. If you always place food in a bowl, your guinea pig might overeat and lose interest in physical activity, leading to weight gain.

Avoid feeding your guinea pig human food. This includes candy, noodles, raw meat/fish, sugar, and desserts. Guinea pigs can develop diabetes. Many foods that you might not think are high in sugar actually contain excessive sugar for guinea pigs and could be harmful to their health.

Reward your guinea pig with tasty treats. Offer your guinea pig its favorite treats 2 or 3 times a week. Some popular choices include carrots, cucumbers, apples, bananas, sweet peppers, lettuce, celery, kale, dandelion greens, and a variety of other fruits and vegetables. Some of these can even be included in your guinea pig's daily diet. You can also find guinea pig snacks like yogurt drops, guinea pig chocolate pellets, or chew sticks at pet stores. However, there are some fruits and vegetables that are NOT safe for guinea pigs. Avoid onions, almonds, beans, potatoes, fruits with pits, avocados, chives, eggplant, garlic, leeks, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, and citrus fruits.

Provide chew sticks for your guinea pig. Chew sticks come in various sizes, colors, and flavors. Guinea pigs' teeth grow continuously, so they need to gnaw on things to wear them down. Chew sticks are a great way to help with this. You can try offering your guinea pig a variety of chew sticks to see which one it prefers. Some guinea pigs may avoid all chew sticks, and in that case, you should be cautious as they may start chewing on other things around their enclosure, such as the cage bars.
Help your guinea pig adjust.

Leave your guinea pig alone to explore its new home. On the first day you bring your guinea pig home, place it in its cage with food and water, and let it be on its own. Cover the cage with a light cloth to allow it to feel comfortable exploring its new environment. Ensure there is enough food, water, and toys to keep your guinea pig busy for a few days, as you should avoid disturbing it during this time. If there are young children, friends, or guests in the house, make sure they don’t disturb your guinea pig.

Gradually get your guinea pig accustomed to you. Three days after giving your guinea pig some alone time, you can start getting closer to it. When approaching the cage, speak softly to alert your guinea pig to your presence. It may initially be scared, but remember that it’s still getting used to you, so don’t be discouraged. Continue with your daily tasks such as changing its food and water, removing old toys, and adding new ones. You should also replace any soiled bedding. Your guinea pig will eventually get used to your hands being inside its cage.

Start the training process. Begin short training sessions during the second week after your guinea pig has settled in. Most guinea pigs are most active from late afternoon to night and throughout the night. Try to understand your guinea pig’s routine and schedule training sessions during its most active times. A good way to train your guinea pig is to place it in a dry bath and join it there. Bring some toys for your guinea pig to play with while it gets used to your presence. Don’t force your guinea pig to engage if it’s not interested. Never punish your guinea pig if it bites or scratches during training.
- For training, place your hand in the cage and allow your guinea pig to sniff and explore your hand. If it nibbles gently but not aggressively, gently withdraw your hand, then offer it again for further exploration. This will help your guinea pig understand that hands aren’t something to fear or bite. Next, hold a treat in your hand; a mix of pellets is ideal since it’s a supplement to its regular diet. Your guinea pig will quickly learn to climb onto your hand. Gradually move the treat higher on your hand as it becomes more comfortable with the interaction.
- If you notice progress, encourage your guinea pig to climb onto your hand and reward it immediately. It will start to associate your hand with positive experiences. Gradually let it climb into your hand and slowly lift your hand off the floor. Initially, it may be frightened, but speaking in a gentle tone and offering its favorite treat will help it relax. Make sure to sit down during the training sessions, as guinea pigs may jump from your hand and get injured if they fall from a height of 15-20 cm.

Pay attention to your guinea pig's sleep cycle. Guinea pigs are nocturnal, but they may be active during the day to forage for food and other things. Even when awake, guinea pigs aren't always interested in playing unless they seem particularly playful. It's also important to limit interaction with strangers around your guinea pig. At this moment, you are the only one it has bonded with. Over time, it will form connections with others, but for now, it needs to understand that you are its friend and will never harm it.
Let your guinea pig exercise.

Buy a suitable exercise wheel for your guinea pig. The wheels sold with cages are often too small and can be harmful to your guinea pig’s back. You can tell a wheel is too small if you see your guinea pig's back arching while using it. Opt for a wheel that is at least 20 cm in diameter for dwarf guinea pigs and 28 cm for Syrian guinea pigs. Don't hesitate to get a larger wheel if needed.
- The wheel should have a solid design. If it has gaps inside, it can cause injury to your guinea pig.

Provide a variety of toys for your guinea pig. They will be delighted by toys such as toilet paper rolls, empty tissue boxes, tubes, tunnels, bird nesting boxes, PVC pipes, and chew toys. Many guinea pig owners only equip them with a wheel and a ball, but this can lead to undesirable behaviors like chewing on cage bars (if they’re kept in that type of cage). Your guinea pig needs more than just a wheel and ball. You should prepare multiple toys that can be rotated to keep your guinea pig engaged and entertained.

Set up an outdoor playpen. Your guinea pig will enjoy having the chance to leave its cage and explore. An outdoor playpen also comes in handy when you need to clean the cage, as it provides a safe space to keep your guinea pig. You can use a plastic storage container or a small animal playpen, both of which are available at pet stores.
- Ensure that your guinea pig cannot access any dangerous items (such as electrical cords that it may chew) and make sure the area is escape-proof.
Clean your guinea pig's home.

Place your guinea pig in a safe area. While cleaning your guinea pig’s home, place it in a ball or another safe cage. Take your time and use both hands. Never attempt to hold your guinea pig with one hand while cleaning its cage with the other. This will not only result in incomplete cleaning but can also potentially harm your pet.

Clean the cage thoroughly. Use regular dish soap and water. Other soaps (such as hand soap) can leave residues that might irritate your guinea pig. It’s best to use a specially designed cleaner for guinea pig cages or small animals, which you can find at pet stores.
- You can also use a vinegar solution to clean your guinea pig’s living space.

Clean the cage and let it dry. Ensure that all water evaporates and any cleaning solutions are thoroughly rinsed out. Remember that guinea pigs have a keen sense of smell, and the scent of vinegar or soap may be unpleasant for them.

Replace the bedding in the cage. To keep the scent of your guinea pig on the bedding, mix a bit of the old bedding with the new. Affordable bedding materials are available at most pet stores. Another good option is shredded hygiene towels, or you can use torn paper towels. Never use old newspapers, as guinea pigs may lick the ink and become very ill. Never use pine or cedar shavings as they are harmful to guinea pigs. However, you can use fallen alder wood shavings.
Items You Need
- Guinea pig
- Cage
- Guinea pig toys
- Warm water and vinegar solution to clean the cage
- Food and treats for the guinea pig
- Food bowl (metal bowls are best)
- Water
- Water bottle for guinea pigs
- Cage bedding materials
- Tunnel
- Guinea pig house/nest
- Guinea pig bedding (optional)
- Toilet paper roll core (for chewing and playing)
- Cage mat (optional)
