How to Care for Kittens

Raising kittens indoors is a truly rewarding experience, but it involves more than just feeding and cleaning up after them. The way you engage with your kittens when they are young plays a crucial role in determining how friendly they will be as adults. When caring for newborn kittens, if all goes as expected, the mother cat will take on the challenging tasks. Unfortunately, unforeseen events can occur, and you may need to step in and care for the kittens if the mother cat is unable to look after them or has abandoned them. This guide will help you understand the developmental needs of kittens in terms of health, nutrition, and socializing.

Prepare a quiet place for the birth. The mother cat will choose a location where she feels safe to give birth. You can help by finding a large cardboard box, turning it on its side, and lining it with heat-retaining, dry material—but don't be discouraged if the mother cat selects another spot. Her instincts will guide her to find a secluded and quiet area, such as under the bed, behind a couch, or inside a cupboard.

• For more details on how to assist the mother cat during birth, you can refer to this article.

Do not disturb the mother cat during birth and the first two days. The first 48 hours are crucial for the mother cat to bond with her kittens, so avoid disturbing her. If the mother cat gives birth under the bed, leave them undisturbed. Moving newborn kittens can cause stress for the mother, and the worst-case scenario is that she may abandon them. Once the bond is formed, usually after four or five days, if necessary, you can move the kittens.

Place food, water, and a litter box in the same room. The mother cat will not leave her kittens for long during the first two weeks after birth. Therefore, place food and water within a reasonable distance, and if possible, provide a litter box in the same room so the mother can stay within sight and hearing range of her kittens.

• If the food is in another room, some mother cats may choose not to eat or drink rather than leave their kittens to find food.

Feed the mother extra food. She needs extra nourishment to produce milk for her kittens.

Allow the mother cat to handle all cleaning tasks. The mother cat’s instincts help her maintain cleanliness in her nest. Newborn kittens cannot groom themselves, so the mother cat must lick the kittens' genital areas before and after nursing to stimulate waste elimination. This keeps the nest clean. Minimize disturbances to their nest.

• If the nest gets dirty, wait until the mother leaves to relieve herself before cleaning and changing the bedding.

Check if the kittens have nursed. If the mother is present, the kittens will usually nurse right after she delivers the last kitten. Newborn kittens spend most of their time sleeping, waking every two to three hours to nurse. If they are not nursing, or if they are pushed away from the mother by their siblings, you will need to bottle-feed them as described in Part 2.

Consider spaying the mother cat. Veterinarians and animal welfare organizations often recommend spaying the mother cat (removal of the uterus) after the kittens are weaned. This helps prevent unwanted pregnancies and also provides health benefits for the cat that has been spayed.

• Remember, a female cat can become pregnant as soon as 3-4 days after giving birth, so keep her indoors to avoid this risk.

Consider deworming the kittens. This can be done as early as two weeks if necessary. Consult your veterinarian for the appropriate medication and dosage.

Give the kittens a milk replacer. Kitten milk replacement powder (such as Cimicat) can be purchased at veterinary clinics, large pet stores, or online. A high-quality milk replacer is KMR, which is similar to infant formula and contains ingredients similar to mother’s milk. The milk replacer comes with instructions on the amount of powder needed per feeding.

• Do not give the kittens cow’s milk, as the lactose will upset their stomachs. If no milk replacer is available and the kittens are hungry, you can feed them cooled boiled water with a dropper or syringe until you can reach the veterinary clinic or pet store. This will provide hydration without upsetting their stomachs.

Use a kitten bottle with a specially designed nipple. These can be purchased at veterinary clinics, large pet stores, or online. In emergencies, you can use a small eyedropper or syringe to administer the milk replacer directly into the kittens’ mouths.

Encourage the kitten to burp after each feeding. Do this similarly to how you would with a newborn baby: hold the kitten with its belly down on your shoulder, or place one hand under its belly. Gently pat and rub its back.

Stimulate the kitten to eliminate waste. Before and after each feeding, gently wipe the kitten’s genital area with a warm, damp cloth or gauze. This helps stimulate the kitten to urinate and defecate, as they are unable to do so on their own. Keep the kitten near the litter box and continue wiping its genital and anal areas after each meal. Do this until the kitten has finished urinating and defecating (when no more waste is expelled).

• Wipe in one direction; back-and-forth wiping can be uncomfortable.
• Avoid using cotton balls, as they can easily disintegrate.

Look for signs of healthy waste. Urine should be pale yellow with a mild odor, while feces should be yellow-brown and firm. Dark urine with a strong odor indicates dehydration, green stools may suggest overfeeding, and white stools can indicate serious malabsorption issues. Consult a veterinarian if you have any concerns.

• If the kitten hasn’t urinated in 12 hours, contact the vet immediately.
• Most kittens will defecate once a day, though this can vary. Take the kitten to the vet if it hasn’t eliminated waste for over two days.

Follow the kitten’s feeding schedule. During the first two weeks after birth, kittens need to eat every 2-3 hours. They will signal hunger by crying and wriggling as if searching for their mother’s nipple. A well-fed kitten will often fall asleep while nursing, with a round belly. After two weeks, you can feed them every 3-4 hours, with a six-hour gap overnight.

Keep the kitten warm with a discreet heating pad. Newborn kittens (under two weeks old) cannot regulate their body temperature and will typically keep warm by cuddling with their mother. You can mimic this behavior by placing them on a heating pad designed for puppies or kittens. Avoid direct contact with the heating pad, as this could cause burns or heat shock. However, pads with a fleece cover are generally safe unless the cover is removed for washing, in which case you can replace it with a towel.

• As the kitten grows (over two weeks old), it may move away from the pad if it gets too warm.

Do not let a cold kitten suckle milk. If a kitten's body temperature drops, you must warm them up slowly. A kitten is cold if its ears and/or the pads on its paws feel cold. Insert your finger into their mouth: if the kitten feels cold, their body temperature is dangerously low. To warm them up slowly, wrap them in a woolen blanket and bring them close to your body. Gently rub them with your hand for one to two hours.

Learn more about caring for orphaned kittens. You can start with this article. Contact a veterinarian for further information and recommendations. The vet can also provide vaccines to prevent common diseases and deworming for orphaned kittens.

• Orphaned kittens can be dewormed when they are two weeks old, and depending on their condition, they may also receive vaccinations between 2-8 weeks of age. These kittens have a weak immune system because, unlike other kittens, they did not receive antibodies from their mother's milk.

Start providing additional food for the kittens. If the mother cat is nearby, the weaning process (transitioning from milk to solid food) naturally begins around four weeks of age. At this point, the mother cat becomes tired of the kittens nibbling on her nipples and starts to distance herself from them. In turn, the kittens, feeling hungry, will start eating solid food and often explore the food the mother cat eats.

• As kittens begin eating solid food, they may start the weaning process at this time.

Provide water. Kittens do not need to drink water until they begin weaning, around four weeks old. However, any kitten at this age needs to be provided with fresh water continuously. Replace the water when it becomes contaminated (since kittens often step in or urinate in their bowls).

Hand-feed your kitten. If you're bottle-feeding your kitten, weaning works the same way. Pour the replacement milk powder into a dish and dip your finger in it to teach the kitten how to lick. Then, mix some wet food with the milk powder to create a thick paste for the kitten to learn how to lick food. As they get better, gradually increase the thickness of the mixture until they fully transition to solid food.

Help your kitten adapt by introducing new experiences. Socialization is essential for kittens between three to nine weeks of age. From around three weeks, interact with your kitten daily. Expose them to new sights and sounds, such as vacuums, hairdryers, bearded men, children... anything you can think of. By six weeks, kittens are often eager to try new things, and they will easily accept unfamiliar experiences, making them happy, adaptable, and sociable.

• Play with your kitten using cat toys, balls, strings, or other safe objects (avoid small items they might swallow). (Note: Always supervise kittens with strings or cords, as they might choke if unsupervised.)
• Avoid training your kitten to treat your fingers or hands as toys, as they might continue biting and scratching as they grow.

Provide non-clumping litter. Choose the litter box location carefully, as once the kitten is used to it, they'll likely continue using that spot. To litter train a kitten, simply place them in the box after meals or whenever they start crouching and scratching the floor in preparation to go. Clean the litter box at least once daily; otherwise, the kitten may stop using it.

• Opt for a litter box with a low side to make it easier for your kitten to enter and exit.
• Avoid clumping litter, as kittens may eat clumps, which can harm their digestive system.
• If your kitten refuses to use the litter box, gently hold their paw and mimic digging behavior. Let them dig on their own afterward, and repeat this process.

Keep your kitten indoors until they can safely navigate outside. Once your vet approves, you can let your kitten explore outdoors. Monitor them closely until they learn how to return home.

• Allow your kitten outside when they're a little hungry. Call them back by using their name and offering food. This reminds the kitten that while exploring can be fun, home will always be their final destination.

Give your kitten responsibility. If you're selling or giving away your kitten, wait until they are at least eight weeks old, with twelve weeks being ideal. Take them to the vet for vaccinations before they leave you. Always check in with the new owner to ensure the kitten is vaccinated and scheduled for spaying/neutering. Exchange contact information with the new owner so you can confirm the kitten is well cared for or help find a new owner if necessary.

Ask the previous owner to provide a blanket with the scent of the mother cat and the kitten's siblings. This familiar scent will help the kitten feel more at ease in its new home.

Inquire about the food the kitten has been eating. Continue feeding them that same food for a few days to avoid a sudden change. Once your kitten is comfortable in its new home, you can begin to transition them to the food you prefer, but do so gradually: replace a small portion of their old food with the new food and increase the proportion of the new food slowly over the course of a week.

• If your kitten is eating dry kibble, you can leave it out for them to eat throughout the day. If they are eating wet food, you can offer small meals every six hours.
• Continue feeding kitten food until they reach one year of age—avoid feeding them adult cat food before then.

Ensure fresh water is available. Kittens older than four weeks need access to water, so always have clean water ready for them.

• Kittens tend to avoid drinking water next to their food dish. Place several bowls of water around the house to encourage them to drink.

Let the kitten gradually adjust to their new home. Initially, introduce them to just one room. Allowing them to explore the entire house on the first day can be overwhelming. Set up a cozy resting area (preferably one with sides and a roof, so the kitten feels secure, as they would in a nest), place food and water in one corner, and the litter box in the opposite corner. Show the kitten where to find their food, water, and litter box, and then give them some quiet time to rest. It's a big day for your new kitten, so let them acclimate and sleep for a few hours.

Engage with your kitten as much as possible. Spend plenty of time grooming, playing, and interacting with your kitten. This will help them grow into a sociable and friendly cat.

Ensure the kitten's safety and the protection of your household items. Keep electrical cords and appliances out of the kitten's reach to prevent them from chewing on them. If your kitten is particularly curious, you might want to invest in childproof locks for low cupboards.

Schedule a visit to the veterinarian. At nine weeks of age, kittens can receive their first vaccination. This is the ideal time for a vet checkup, deworming, and the start of their vaccination series. Basic kitten vaccinations typically protect against feline distemper and intestinal infections. You may also want to consider feline leukemia vaccinations.

• Kittens love to play with anything they come across. Make sure to remove sharp objects or anything small enough for them to swallow to avoid accidents.
• The information in this article should not replace professional advice from a veterinarian. If in doubt, always consult a vet!
• If you are allergic to cats or kittens, it's best not to keep them. Living with a kitten could worsen your allergies or lead to asthma.

• Litter box
• Non-clumping cat litter
• Cat toys
• Food and water bowls
• Kitten milk replacement
• Kitten feeding bottle (or you can use a small tube or syringe)
• Kitten food (dry or wet)
• Paper towels
• Sleeping area for the kitten
• Brush (if your kitten has long fur)
• Scratching post
• Clean water