How to Care for Orchids

Use a pot with drainage holes. An essential part of orchid care is ensuring that the pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. If water cannot drain, the orchid's roots could rot and kill the plant! If your orchid is planted in a pot without drainage, you will need to repot it into a new one.

• Place a dish or tray beneath the pot to catch any excess water and prevent spillage onto the floor.

Choose a well-draining medium specifically designed for orchids. You can select a growing medium made from bark or moss. Bark-based mediums offer excellent drainage and resistance to root rot but can break down quickly. Moss retains moisture better but requires careful watering and may need more frequent repotting.

• If your orchid is not planted in the right growing medium, repotting can help it grow better.

Place the pot near a south or east-facing window, if possible. Orchids need bright but indirect light to thrive. If possible, position your orchid near a south or east-facing window to ensure it gets the right amount of sunlight. If only a west-facing window is available, you should use curtains to protect the orchid from harsh sunlight.

• A north-facing window may not provide enough light for your orchid to bloom.

Maintain an indoor temperature of about 16-24°C (60-75°F). Orchids grow best at moderate temperatures and will not survive in very cold conditions. Although the ideal temperature varies by orchid species, generally, try to keep the indoor temperature above 16°C. During the day, temperatures should be 5-8°C warmer than at night.

Ensure light air circulation. Orchids do not grow in soil, so it's crucial to provide proper airflow to keep the roots healthy. During pleasant weather, open the window to allow a gentle breeze. Otherwise, you can use a slow-speed ceiling fan or a rotating fan, but avoid directing the airflow directly at the plant to prevent stagnant air.

Water the orchid before the plant dries out. It’s essential to water your orchid based on its needs rather than on a set schedule. Every few days, gently insert one or two fingers into the growing medium and then rub them together. If there is no moisture between your fingers, it’s time to water your orchid by pouring water into the growing medium and allowing it to soak in. After a few minutes, empty the water from the saucer or tray underneath the pot.

• Depending on the climate, humidity, and growing medium, you may need to water the orchid anywhere from once a week to every few weeks.
• Clear orchid pots can help you determine when to water – if there is no water condensation inside the pot, it’s time to water.

Spray the orchid daily if your indoor humidity is below 40%. Orchids thrive in environments with humidity levels between 40-60%. You can purchase a humidity meter from a garden center or supermarket to check your home’s humidity. If the humidity is under 40%, lightly mist your orchid and its growing medium daily with a spray bottle.

• If the humidity is higher than 60%, consider using a dehumidifier in the room with the orchid to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Fertilize the orchid once a month when it’s in bloom. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Dilute it to half the recommended strength and apply once a month while the orchid is blooming. Do not water for a few days after fertilizing, as the nutrients might wash out with excess water.

• After blooming, the plant’s growth will slow down. You can reduce watering and fertilizing until new leaves begin to emerge.

Trim the flower spikes once the blooms fade. Orchids only bloom once per stem, except for Phalaenopsis (moth orchids). If you are growing Phalaenopsis, cut the flower spike just above the two lowest buds after the flowers fade. For bulbous orchids, cut the spike just above the pseudobulb. For other types of orchids, cut the spike as close to the growing medium in the pot as possible.

• A pseudobulb is the thick, swollen part at the base of the orchid’s stem.
• Always sterilize your cutting tools before trimming orchids.

Remove scale insects and mealybugs by hand. Signs of their presence include sticky leaves and dark mold resembling soot. You can remove visible pests from both the tops and undersides of the leaves, as well as from the flower stems.

Wash pest-infested leaves with soapy water. After manually removing pests, mix a small amount of dish soap with room temperature water in a cup or bowl. Dip a soft cloth into the solution, then gently wipe each leaf and flower stem. The soapy water will clean off sticky sap and soot while killing any remaining bugs.

Spray insecticide on the orchid if the issue persists. If pests are still visible after manually removing them and washing the leaves, visit a garden center to buy a pesticide safe for orchids. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label.

Prune infected tissue. If you notice that your orchid's leaves are discolored or spotted (with cream, yellow, brown, or black patches), it’s likely the plant has an infection. The first step is to remove as much infected tissue as possible. Use pruning shears to cut off the infected leaves, stems, and flowers. Don’t forget to sterilize your gardening tools before and after removing the infected parts.

• In some cases, it may be best to completely discard the infected plant to prevent the disease from spreading.

Treat bacterial or fungal infections with fungicide or antibacterial sprays. Common bacterial diseases affecting orchids include brown rot, black rot, and brown spots, which are characterized by dark patches on the leaves or pseudobulbs. Common fungal infections include wilting and root rot, where the roots, pseudobulbs, and leaves begin to decay. After cutting away infected tissue, spray your orchid with the appropriate fungicide or antibacterial treatment based on the specific infection.

• These products can be purchased at most garden centers.