How to Care for Orphaned Birds

Lost baby birds are a common sight in spring, their pitiful cries awakening the nurturing instincts of even the most stoic individuals. The natural reaction is to want to take them in and care for them. But before doing so, it's important to assess the situation and make sure you're doing what's best for the little bird. Is it truly abandoned? Is there a wildlife rescue center that can care for it better than you can? If you decide to care for the bird yourself, be prepared for the effort involved – baby birds are fragile and need frequent feedings. If you think you're up to the task, the following article will guide you on how to feed and care for orphaned birds.

Determine if the bird is a dependent or independent fledgling. The first step is to figure out whether the bird can forage for food on its own after hatching or if it requires parental care. Dependent fledglings are birds that cannot see when they hatch, have no feathers, and rely completely on their parents for feeding and warmth. Many songbirds and perching birds are dependent fledglings, such as robins, sparrows, and chickadees. Independent fledglings, on the other hand, are more developed at birth, with open eyes and soft feathers. They can walk and follow their mother around in search of food. Examples include starlings, ducks, and geese.

• Independent fledglings are much easier to care for but rarely need help. They often build their nests close to the ground to avoid falling out or being pushed out. If you find an independent fledgling that has strayed, try to return it to its mother before deciding to adopt it.
• Dependent fledglings are unable to care for themselves and must be nurtured. Suburban areas often see dependent fledglings that have fallen or been pushed from their nests. In some cases, you can return them to their nests, or you'll need to take care of them yourself. Alternatively, you could leave the bird and let nature take its course.

Determine if it is a fledgling or an independent juvenile bird. If you come across a bird that belongs to the perching or songbird family, and it appears to have fallen from its nest or been abandoned, you need to assess whether it is a fledgling or an independent juvenile. A fledgling is a young bird that is not yet fully developed to leave the nest, as it lacks feathers and may not have opened its eyes. An independent juvenile, on the other hand, is a bird that has grown enough to leave the nest, with its feathers fully developed and strong enough to begin flying. These birds can leave the nest and perch on branches.

• If it's a fledgling, it should still be in the nest, and something is definitely wrong. It may have fallen or been pushed out by healthier siblings. A fledgling left alone has almost no chance of survival.
• If you encounter an independent juvenile, take a moment to observe before taking action. It may appear to have fallen from the nest and is calling for help, but in reality, it is learning to fly. If you watch long enough, you might even see the parents return periodically to feed it. If this is the case, it’s best not to interfere.

If possible, return the fledgling to its nest. If you find a bird that is certainly a fledgling, lying helplessly on the ground, you should return it to its nest. First, check if you can place the nest in a nearby tree or bush, ensuring it is hidden from predators. Then, gently pick up the bird in one hand, using the other to keep it warm. Look for any signs of injury; if there are none, carefully return it to the nest.

• Don’t worry about the parents rejecting the fledgling due to the 'human scent.' This myth is untrue, as birds have a very poor sense of smell and recognize their young by sight and sound. They almost always accept a fledgling returned to the nest.
• After returning the fledgling, leave the area quickly—don’t linger or wait for the parents, as your presence may frighten them off. If possible, monitor the nest from a distance using binoculars.
• Keep in mind that many fledglings may not survive even if returned to the nest. If it is the weakest in the brood, it may be pushed out again by the stronger siblings, as they compete for food and warmth.
• If you find a dead fledgling in the nest, the nest has been abandoned, and returning the bird will not help. In this case, you will need to care for the fledgling alongside any surviving siblings if you wish for them to have a chance at survival.

Create an artificial nest if necessary. Sometimes a bird's nest may fall due to strong winds, pruning, or predators. In such cases, you can retrieve the nest (or make a new one) and place the fledgling back inside. If the original nest is intact, place it in a basket or container (make drainage holes) and use wire to hang the nest on a tree branch. Try to place the nest back in its original location. If that’s not possible, place it on a nearby branch, ensuring it is shielded from direct sunlight.

• Before placing the fledgling back in the nest, warm it in your hands. Then, move away, but try to monitor the nest from a distance. The parents may initially be suspicious of the new nest, but their instinct to care for their young will eventually override this.
• If the original nest is completely destroyed, you can make a new one by lining a basket with paper towels. Even if the original nest was made from dry grass, avoid using grass in your makeshift nest, as it retains moisture and can make the fledgling cold.

If you're certain the fledgling has been abandoned, call a bird rescue center. Before taking the fledgling in, make sure it has truly been abandoned. Common situations where a fledgling needs help include: when you find one that has fallen from the nest but cannot return, if it has been injured, is sick, or covered in dirt, or if you have observed a makeshift nest for over two hours without the parents returning to feed it.

• The best course of action is to contact a bird rescue center so they can take the bird in. These centers have experience caring for young birds, giving them the best chance of survival.
• If you cannot locate a bird rescue center, call a veterinarian or wildlife officer for advice. In some areas, there may not be a dedicated bird rescue center, but animal rescue services may be available.
• If no other options are available, and you cannot transport the fledgling to a center, you may need to care for the bird yourself. Remember, this should only be a last resort, as raising and feeding a fledgling requires a great deal of effort, and the chances of survival are often low.
• Additionally, it is important to note that keeping wild birds in captivity is illegal unless you have the proper permits.

Feed the baby bird every 15-20 minutes from morning until night. Baby birds need to be fed very frequently – in fact, parent birds must feed their young hundreds of times a day. To mimic this constant feeding schedule, you must feed the baby bird every 15-20 minutes from morning until evening.

• Once the bird opens its eyes and grows feathers, you can extend the feeding interval to 30-45 minutes. Afterward, you can gradually increase the amount of food per feeding and reduce the number of feedings accordingly.
• When the bird is strong enough to leave the nest and starts hopping around the box, you only need to feed it once an hour. Gradually extend this interval to 2-3 hours between feedings and begin leaving some food in the box for the bird to practice pecking.

What should baby birds eat? There are various opinions on what type of food baby birds should eat, but most experts agree that as long as the bird receives adequate nutrition, the specific food choice is not as critical. While different bird species may require different diets – some eat insects, others prefer seeds and berries – most baby birds share similar nutritional needs, particularly high-protein food.

• The best starter diet for newly hatched birds consists of 60% small dog or kitten food, 20% well-cooked boiled egg, and 20% birdmeal worms (which can be purchased online).
• The small dog food should be moistened until it reaches a sponge-like consistency, but not so much that it becomes too watery, as baby birds can choke on excess liquid. The boiled egg and birdmeal worms should be chopped finely enough for the bird to swallow easily.

Gradually adjust the diet over time. As the bird grows and begins hopping around, you can gradually introduce adult bird food into its diet.

• Insect-eating birds will consume finely chopped earthworms, grasshoppers, and crickets, along with any other insects you catch using insect-catching tools.
• Fruit-eating birds will enjoy berries, grapes, and raisins that have been soaked in water.

Understand which birds require special diets. Certain exceptions do not follow the general feeding guidelines outlined above, such as: pigeons, parrots, hummingbirds, fish-eating birds, birds of prey, and birds that can be independent shortly after hatching.

• Pigeons and parrots typically consume 'crop milk,' a substance regurgitated by the parent bird. To mimic this diet, you must feed the baby bird special parrot formula (available at pet stores) using a plastic syringe without a needle.
• While you may not frequently encounter other types of birds, their dietary needs include: Hummingbirds require nectar-based formula, fish-eating birds need finely chopped fish (available at pet stores), birds of prey feed on insects, rodents, and smaller birds, and independent baby birds can be fed chick food.

Do not feed baby birds bread or milk. Many people make the mistake of feeding baby birds milk or bread. Unlike mammals, milk is not a natural part of a bird's diet, and they cannot digest it. Bread is high in empty calories and does not provide the necessary nutrition for birds. Always allow any bird food to cool to room temperature before offering it to the bird.

Proper feeding techniques. When feeding a baby bird, ensure you do so with care. The best feeding tools are blunt tweezers or plastic tongs. If you don't have these, you can use chopsticks small enough to fit into the bird’s beak. Each time you feed, gently pick up a bit of food with the tweezers or chopsticks and place it into the bird's beak.

• Don’t worry if food accidentally falls into the wrong place, as the bird’s windpipe will automatically close while eating.
• If the bird refuses to open its beak, lightly tap it with the feeding tool or rub the food gently around the edges of the beak. This will signal the bird that it’s time to eat. If the bird still doesn’t open its beak, gently pry it open.
• Feed the bird until it refuses to open its beak or starts rejecting the food. Do not overfeed.

Avoid giving water to baby birds. In most cases, you should not give water to baby birds as liquids can easily enter their lungs and cause suffocation. Only offer water when the bird is old enough to hop around its box. At that point, you can place a shallow dish of water (such as a plastic lid) in the box for the bird to drink from.

• Placing a small stone or some marbles in the water dish will prevent the bird from jumping into it.
• If you believe the bird is dehydrated, take it to a vet or bird rescue worker for hydration via injection.

Creating a temporary nest for the bird. To create a nest for a bird, you can use a cardboard box with a lid, such as a shoebox, and puncture a few holes in the bottom. Place a small bowl made of plastic or wood inside the box and line it with paper towels. This will be a comfortable and safe nest for the baby bird.

• Avoid lining the nest with fibrous or shredded materials, as the bird's wings or beak could get tangled. Don’t use grass, leaves, or small twigs because they are damp and prone to mold.
• Make sure to replace the nesting materials if they become damp or dirty.

Keeping the bird warm. If the bird is wet or cold, you need to warm it up immediately after placing it in the nest. There are several ways to do this. If you have a heating pad, set it to a low temperature and place the nest on top. Alternatively, you can fill a zip-lock bag with warm water and place it in the nest, or hang a 40-watt bulb above it.

• It’s important to keep the bird’s nest at a stable temperature, so it’s a good idea to place a thermometer inside the box. If the bird is under one week old (eyes closed, no feathers), the temperature inside the box should be around 35°C. The temperature can drop by 5°C each week.
• Ensure that the box is placed in an area free from direct sunlight and drafts, as baby birds are very vulnerable to both cold and overheating due to their large body surface area and lack of insulating feathers.

Create a quiet environment for the baby bird. Baby birds will not grow properly unless raised in a calm, stress-free environment. When stressed, a bird's heart rate increases, which can negatively affect its health. Therefore, you should place the box in a quiet area, away from pets and children. Additionally, avoid the following:

• Handling the bird too much or incorrectly, loud noises, improper temperature, too many baby birds, inconsistent feeding schedules, or using the wrong type of food.
• It’s best to observe and hold the bird at eye level, as birds do not like being looked down upon. They may perceive you as a predator if you look at them from above.

Track the bird's growth progress. You should monitor the bird’s development by weighing it daily to ensure it is gaining weight. A food scale or postal scale can be used for this purpose. The bird's weight should increase daily, and within 4-6 days, it should double its weight from birth. The bird should continue to gain weight rapidly during the first two weeks.

• To see if the bird is developing normally for its species, you should refer to a growth chart.
• If the bird’s weight gain is very slow or nonexistent, something may be wrong. In this case, you should take the bird to a veterinarian or animal rescue center immediately, or it could die.

Let the bird learn to fly before releasing it back into nature. Once the bird has grown feathers, you should move it to a larger cage or let it out onto a fenced patio where it can practice flying. Don’t worry if the bird doesn’t know how to fly yet—flying is instinctual, and after a few days of practice, it will learn. The bird will need about 5-15 days to master flying.

• Once the bird is proficient at flying and reaches the necessary height, it is ready to be released into the wild. Take it to a location where there are other birds of the same species and plenty of food, and then release it.
• If you plan to release the bird in your yard, you can place the cage outdoors and open the door. The bird will decide for itself whether to fly away.
• The less time the bird spends in captivity, the better its chances of survival in the wild, so don’t delay its release.

• Be cautious as birds can bite or peck at you. Remember, birds are wild animals.