Buzz
Test your survival skills by creating a log raft using materials found in nature. If you're open to using some plastic, you can also craft a raft with PVC pipes or plastic containers. So gather your lumber, grab your tools, and show off your raft-building skills to your friends!
Steps
Building a Raft with Plastic Storage Bins
Place 10 storage bins on a 0.75 in (1.9 cm) plywood sheet. Take the lids off the 18 US gal (68 l) plastic bins and position them upside down on the 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m) plywood. Arrange them evenly in two rows of five—there should be minimal gaps between the bins.
- You can find both plastic storage bins and plywood sheets at most hardware stores.
Drill pilot holes through the bin handles and the plywood. Some plastic bins come with pre-drilled holes in the handles—if that's the case, just drill through the existing holes and into the plywood below. If not, simply drill through the handles and continue into the plywood.
- Pick a drill bit that's the same size or slightly larger than the 1.25 in (3.2 cm)-long bolts you’ll use, ensuring the pilot holes are large enough for the bolts to fit.
- Prop the plywood on blocks or low sawhorses, or rest it on soft ground to prevent drilling into your garage floor, workshop, or driveway.
- Drill a total of 20 pilot holes—two per bin, one per handle.
Lift the plywood and stand it upright on its longer edge. Position the plywood against sawhorses, a fence, or ask a friend to hold it steady. This will allow you to access all the pilot holes you’ve drilled.
Slip washers over the galvanized bolts and insert them through the pilot holes. Slide galvanized or heavy-duty plastic washers onto each 1.25 in (3.2 cm) bolt, then push them into the 20 pilot holes. Temporarily hold them in place with a piece of duct tape across the head of each bolt.
- On one side of the plywood, the duct tape should cover the bolt heads and the washers sandwiched between the bolt heads and the plywood. The other end of each bolt should stick out the other side of the plywood.
- Galvanized bolts are resistant to rust and will perform better on water.
Place the plywood on the ground and slide the bins onto the bolts. Position the plywood so that the bolts are pointing up (and the duct tape-covered bolt heads face down). Then, slide the pilot holes in the handles of each bin over the bolts.
Secure the bins by adding washers and nuts onto the bolts. Place galvanized or heavy-duty plastic washers over the 20 bolts, then hand-tighten galvanized nuts onto each bolt.
- To finish tightening, use a ratchet with an extension or a power drill with an extended ratchet bit to secure the bolts completely.
Build and connect extra sections to create a larger raft. If you need a raft larger than 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m), construct additional smaller rafts following the same method. Then, join them together along their long sides by attaching 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber on top of the plywood surface.
- For example, to create a raft measuring 8 ft × 8 ft (2.4 m × 2.4 m), place two smaller rafts side by side. Then, connect them with two 8 ft (2.4 m) long pieces of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber along their short sides.
- Use at least one 2.25 in (5.7 cm) galvanized screw per linear foot (30 cm) of the 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber to secure the joints.
Launch and navigate the raft safely. To launch the raft, have at least two adults per section carefully lower it, bin-side down, into the water. Once afloat, step onto the deck and use long poles or paddles to guide and propel the raft.
- The plastic bins provide sufficient buoyancy for the raft. However, be cautious of overloading it, as too many people can increase the risk of someone falling off. Stick to 2-3 people per 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m) section.
- Ensure everyone is wearing a life jacket at all times.
- This raft is suited for calm, slow-moving water like lazy rivers but should be kept out of fast or turbulent waters.
Constructing a PVC Pipe Raft
Cut 4 pieces of 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter PVC pipe to 12 ft (3.7 m) lengths. If you find pre-cut 12 ft (3.7 m) sections of 3 in (7.6 cm) diameter PVC pipe at your local hardware store, simply buy 4 of them. Otherwise, use a hacksaw to cut 4 longer sections (e.g., 16 ft (4.9 m)) to the desired length.
Smooth out any rough edges where you cut the PVC pipe. Use medium-grit sandpaper to remove any PVC fragments or burrs from the cut edges. This will help ensure that the end caps you plan to attach adhere properly.
- "Medium grit" typically refers to sandpaper with a grit number between 60 and 100.
Attach a PVC end cap to one pipe's end using cement. Coat the inside rim of the PVC end cap and the last 1 in (2.5 cm) of the pipe with a thin layer of PVC primer, using the brush on the underside of the primer can's lid. Let it sit for 10 seconds, then apply PVC cement in the same manner. Immediately press the end cap onto the pipe, giving it a slight twist, and hold it for 15 seconds until the cement sets.
- Repeat this process for the remaining 7 end caps and pipe ends.
- You can find PVC primer and cement in separate cans in the plumbing section of any home improvement store.
- Work in a well-ventilated space to avoid fumes from the PVC cement and wear gloves to protect your hands.
Apply water-resistant caulk around the connections of the end caps. Use a caulk gun to run a thin bead of caulk around the joint between the end cap and the pipe. Wet your finger and smooth the caulk into the seam. Do the same for the other end cap connections.
- This step isn’t strictly necessary, as the PVC cement should create a reliable watertight seal, but the caulk provides added protection.
- Ensure you use a water-resistant caulk.
Cut two 5 ft (1.5 m) sections of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber. If possible, choose pressure-treated lumber for better resistance to decay. Cut the lumber to the desired length using a hand saw or a circular saw.
Arrange the PVC pipes and lumber to form a rectangle. Looking from above, set up a 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) rectangle. The two long sides will consist of two PVC pipes laid side by side, while the short sides will be formed by the cut pieces of lumber, placed 1 ft (30 cm) from each end cap.
- In effect, this will result in four 1 ft (30 cm)-long sections of PVC pipe protruding beyond each corner of the rectangle.
Drill 4 pilot holes in each board, aligning them with the PVC pipes underneath. At this stage, drill only through the wood, but make sure the holes are positioned so you can drive screws directly into the center of each PVC pipe below.
- Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the 2 in (5.1 cm) brass screws you’ll be using to ensure a tight fit.
Coat a 2 in (5.1 cm) brass screw in silicone gel and add a waterproof washer. The silicone gel helps prevent rust and ensures the screw sticks securely to the PVC pipe. Use a rubber or plastic washer to further protect against rust.
- Do this for all screws, but tackle them one at a time.
- You can purchase silicone gel in tubs at most home improvement stores.
Drive the coated screw into the pilot hole, and repeat the process. Use a power screwdriver to drive the silicone-coated screw through the pilot hole into the PVC pipe, tightening it until the washer is flush against the top of the wood. Repeat the entire procedure (dipping the screws, etc.) 7 more times to firmly attach the PVC pipes to the wood.
Attach a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) thick plywood sheet to serve as the raft’s deck. Cut the plywood to match the dimensions of the rectangle formed by the PVC pipes and the lumber (10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m)). Lay the plywood over the structure and secure it by driving at least 5 brass screws through the plywood and into the lumber at each end.
- Remember to dip the screws in silicone gel as you did before.
- If you can't find a large enough plywood sheet (some stores only carry 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m) sheets), attach two more 5 ft (1.5 m) pieces of lumber to the PVC pipes at evenly spaced intervals. Then, cut four 5 ft × 2.5 ft (1.52 m × 0.76 m) plywood sheets and secure them side by side over the supports.
Allow the silicone to dry for 4 hours before using the raft. If the silicone hasn't dried for at least 4 hours, it will wash away once the raft hits the water. Without the protective silicone, the screws may rust more quickly, weakening the connection between the PVC pipes and the raft's lumber.
Use the raft only in calm waters for safety. This raft can support 2 adults and some gear, but it’s best suited for calm ponds or lakes. Avoid using it on fast-moving rivers or in rough conditions like storms or strong winds. Always wear a life vest while on the raft.
- For extra buoyancy, you can attach sheets of rigid foam insulation to the underside of the plywood deck using foam-compatible glue. Even with this added flotation, stick to calm waters for safety.
Important Safety Tips
- Always wear a life jacket when near water.
Essential Materials
Constructing a Plastic Storage Bin Raft
- 10, 18 US gal (68 l) plastic storage bins
- 8 ft × 4 ft (2.4 m × 1.2 m) sheet of 0.75 in (1.9 cm) plywood
- 20+ galvanized bolts, washers, and nuts
- Drill
- Extension ratchet or extension ratchet drill bit
- Duct tape
Constructing a PVC Pipe Raft
- 4, 12 ft (3.7 m) sections of 3 in (7.6 cm) PVC pipe
- Hacksaw
- PVC primer and cement
- 8, 3 in (7.6 cm) PVC pipe end caps
- Caulking gun with water-resistant caulk
- 2, 5 ft (1.5 m) lengths of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber
- 10 ft × 5 ft (3.0 m × 1.5 m) sheet of 0.5 in (1.3 cm) plywood
- Saw
- Drill
- Screwdriver
- Brass screws with rubber washers
- Silicone gel
