Dyeing the hidden layers of your hair is a fantastic way to try out a new color without committing to dyeing your whole head. Plus, you can create amazing effects by combining different shades, such as dyeing the inner layers black if you have platinum blonde hair, or adding a touch of rainbow highlights. The process is similar to dyeing your entire head, except you'll separate the section of hair you're dyeing from the top layers.
StepsPrepare Your Hair and Work Area

Wash your hair the day before you plan to dye it. Generally, it's best to avoid washing your hair right before dyeing. The natural oils on your scalp help protect it, preventing the dye from causing irritation. By washing your hair the day before, your scalp will have time to replenish those oils. Additionally, most hair dye brands recommend applying dye to dry hair.
- Some temporary hair dyes work best on clean hair, and may even require washing your hair just before applying the dye. Make sure to follow the instructions on the dye box you're using.
- If your hair is too dirty, the dye may not penetrate evenly, so avoid dyeing your hair if you haven't washed it in 2-3 days.

Wear old clothes you don’t mind getting stained. Hair dye can easily splatter, no matter how careful you are. Since you’ll be dyeing the back part of your hair, it’s even more likely for the dye to drip. To avoid ruining your favorite clothes, opt for old t-shirts and shorts or workout pants. That way, if any dye drips, you won’t have to worry about stains.
- You can also buy a hairdresser’s cape to wear over your clothes.
Tip: If possible, choose an old button-up shirt that you can easily remove without having to pull it over your head when it’s time to rinse out the dye.

Prepare your workspace with all necessary tools like towels, hair clips, a timer, and a comb. It’s really inconvenient to have to hunt for anything once your hands (or gloves) are covered in dye. Make sure to have everything you need within arm’s reach where you plan to dye your hair. Lay out newspapers or towels on the floor or table. Also, keep a few extra towels nearby to clean up any dye spills.
- If your dye kit doesn’t come with gloves, you’ll need to find a pair.
- Dyeing your hair is easier if you do it in the bathroom and use two mirrors to see the back of your head, like one wall mirror and one handheld mirror. Use the countertop by the sink as your workspace.

Brush your hair to remove tangles. Knots and tangles can prevent the dye from soaking in evenly, so make sure to thoroughly brush your hair before you start dyeing.
- Additionally, tangled hair can make the dyeing process more difficult and uneven.

Use a comb to part your hair at the back of your ear. To separate the inner layers, part your hair starting from behind one ear, across the back of your head, to the other ear—this is the nape area. Use your second mirror to check this part of your hair.
- If you want to dye more hair, you can raise this parting a little higher, such as up to the top of your ear, or lower it if you want to dye less.
- You can also make a circular parting if you want to dye your bangs as well.

Secure the hair on top of your head. Use hair clips or hair ties to fasten the top section of your hair at the crown. Make sure it’s tight enough to keep the hair out of the way, but not so tight that it’s uncomfortable.
- If you prefer, you can wrap a towel around the hair at the top of your head, but use a towel you don’t mind getting dirty.
- If you have any loose baby hairs near your hairline, you can pin them back with bobby pins.

Apply petroleum jelly (Vaseline) along your hairline to protect your skin from dye stains. Use your fingers to generously apply the jelly along the hairline at the nape of your neck, from one side to the other. The petroleum jelly creates a barrier to protect your skin from any dye that might drip.
- If you like, you can apply some jelly to the hair just above the hairline, but be careful not to get it on the section of hair you're about to dye.

Bleach your hair first if you’re using bright or pastel colors. Unless your natural hair is already very light, you’ll need to bleach it first if you want to dye it a bright or pastel shade like turquoise, pink, or lavender. While it’s best to visit a salon for bleaching, you can also bleach your hair at home by purchasing a bleach kit and following the product instructions carefully.
- Consult a professional hairstylist before bleaching dyed hair. Bleach can react poorly with some dyes, causing significant damage.
Apply the Dye

Mix the dye according to the product instructions. Many hair dyes come with a cream activator and a separate dye bottle. To activate the dye, you need to mix the two together. However, always read the instructions carefully, even if you’ve dyed your hair before, as the application process can vary depending on the brand and even the specific line of products from the same brand.
- If you’re using temporary dye (including most pastel colors), you may not need to mix anything.

Wear gloves before applying dye to your hair. Hair dye can cause skin irritation. Even if you're using a gentler product, your hands can get stained if you don't wear gloves.
- Most commercial hair dye kits come with gloves, but if not, you can buy gloves at beauty stores or pharmacies. It's a good idea to have an extra pair on hand in case the ones included in the kit tear.

Apply the dye using the mixing bottle in the kit or a bowl and brush. If your kit includes a specialized bottle for mixing, you can mix the dye in the bottle and apply it directly to your hair. For better control, you can mix the dye in a bowl and use a brush to apply it to your hair.
- You can find dye brushes at beauty supply stores, or use a craft sponge brush from a craft store.

Apply the dye from roots to tips. After mixing the dye and putting on gloves, you can start the fun part – applying the dye! Begin at the roots, as this area will take the longest to absorb the color. Then, work your way down, covering all strands from the root to the tip. If needed, you can use your fingers to massage the dye into your hair.
- Make sure to cover the entire length of the inner layers of your hair, from root to tip.
- Unless you have very long hair, you probably won't need to use the entire bottle of dye since you're only dyeing the inner layers.
Tip: If you want to create a two-tone effect or dip-dye look, apply the darker color to the ends of the hair first, then use a lighter color for the rest of the inner layers, applying it all the way to the roots. Make sure to blend the two colors together where they meet to avoid any harsh lines between the shades.

Wrap a towel around your shoulders and set a timer. Once you've applied the dye, place a towel over your shoulders to protect your skin from any dye stains. Read the product instructions to find out how long you need to leave the dye on your hair and set a timer.
- Don't clip the freshly dyed hair up as the top layers might get dye on them as well.
- Do not leave the dye on your hair longer than recommended in the instructions!
- If you like, you can use makeup remover to clean any dye stains from your skin while you wait.

Rinse out the hair dye with cool water until the water runs clear. After the recommended dyeing time, wash your hair with cool water to remove the dye. Run your fingers through your hair to ensure no areas are missed. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear and you no longer feel any dye residue in your hair.
- Do not use any shampoo, and avoid using hot water as it can open the hair cuticles, causing the color to fade.

Use a deep conditioner for your hair. If your dye kit includes a deep conditioner, apply it to your hair and leave it on for the recommended time. If not, you can use your regular conditioner and wait for about 5 minutes before rinsing.
- Conditioner will smooth out the hair that has been chemically treated and close the hair cuticles, helping to lock in the color for longer.
Items you will need
- Hair dye
- Old clothes
- Comb
- 2 mirrors
- Hair clips, hair ties, etc.
- Petroleum jelly
- Mixing bowl and dye brush or dye bottle
- Towel
- Timer
- Gloves
- Showerhead
- Deep conditioner
Tip
- This hair dye technique works best on layered hair (hair cut into alternating layers), but it can be applied to any hair type.
Warning
- Test the dye on a few strands of hair first to see how your hair reacts.
- If the dye gets into your eyes, rinse immediately with cool water.
- Do not leave the dye on your hair longer than the recommended time.