Buzz
Discover the causes, solutions, and DIY tips to repair your GE dryer
If your GE dryer isn't producing heat, this guide offers clear steps to identify the issue and resolve it. Included are professional tips from home improvement expert Allen Lee to help get your dryer back to working condition.
Frequent Reasons Why a Dryer Fails to Heat
The most frequent cause for a GE dryer failing to heat during a cycle is either insufficient power supply or, for gas models, a lack of gas. Also, ensure that you've not selected a no-heat cycle and that the dryer’s airflow is unobstructed for optimal performance.
How to Fix the Issue
Your dryer might not be receiving enough power.
Ensure the outlet is functioning and hasn't been tripped. Your GE dryer requires a 240V outlet to heat the drum. If the circuit breaker was tripped, your dryer may not be receiving the full 240V it needs, causing it to spin but not heat.
- If you're uncertain, it’s best to contact an electrician to test the voltage and ensure your outlet can support the dryer’s requirements. Also, remember to reset any tripped circuits.
A gas issue may be present (for gas dryers only).
Verify the gas line is working correctly. Make sure the gas line is properly connected and the gas supply is turned on. If the gas valve is horizontal, it means the gas is off—rotate it vertically to turn it on. As an extra step, check other gas appliances in your home, like your stove or heating system, or check the gas meter to verify your gas supply. If your home’s gas system isn’t working, the issue lies with the gas supply, not your GE dryer.
A no-heat cycle may have been selected.
Settings like "Fluff" or "Cooldown" might be causing your dryer to spin without heat. These cycles are designed to spin without heat, which could give the impression that something is wrong with your dryer.
- Switch to a setting like "Normal" to ensure heat is applied during the cycle.
The front of the dryer is obstructed.
Clothing, baskets, or other items could be blocking airflow to your dryer. If airflow is restricted, your dryer may not heat properly. Remove any blockages to restore normal operation of your GE dryer.
Your dryer vent might be clogged.
Modern dryers often stop heating if airflow is obstructed to reduce the risk of fires. While this is a helpful safety feature, it can be frustrating to find your clothes still wet after an extended drying cycle.
- To check if the vent is clogged, start a heated cycle and go outside to find the dryer vent (usually a hole in the wall). Feel the air coming from the vent.
- If the airflow is weak and not hot, the vent is likely blocked. Follow our vent-cleaning guide for a solution, or reach out to a professional for help.
EXPERT ADVICE
Allen Lee
Home Improvement Expert
Home Improvement Expert
It’s important to inspect your dryer vents at least twice a year. We recommend doing so in the spring and again in the fall. A clogged vent can cause damage to the heating element or even pose a fire hazard to your home.
The lint filter might be blocked.
A blocked lint filter can prevent your dryer from heating. If your dryer is spinning but not producing heat, or is only slightly warm, cleaning the lint filter is often the solution.
- To clean the lint filter, open the dryer door, remove the filter from the front of the drum, and use your hands to pull out the lint and debris. A pipe cleaner or vacuum can help remove any leftover lint from the vent where the filter sits.
- If the filter remains dirty, rinse it under running water and scrub off any buildup. Let it dry completely before reinserting it into the dryer.
- Be sure to clean the lint filter after every load.
Your power cord might be damaged.
A faulty power cord can prevent the dryer from receiving enough power to heat. Follow these steps to inspect the cord and avoid electrical hazards:
- Switch off the power to the dryer.
- Unplug the dryer and pull it out from the wall.
- Unscrew the panel holding the power cord to access the terminal block connections.
- Examine the cord for any burn marks, frayed areas, or loose wires. If you find any damage, you’ll need to replace the power cord.
The heating element might be burned out.
If the heating element is defective, your dryer won’t heat. Over time, especially without proper maintenance, the heating element can stop working. If you're comfortable with disassembling your dryer, you can use a multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. If it's faulty, you’ll need to buy a replacement heating element.
- Disconnect the dryer from the power and, for gas dryers, turn off the gas supply.
- Check the manual for the location of the heating element—it's usually near or below the drum.
- Remove the heating element assembly, which encases the element. You don’t need to remove the element itself, as testing continuity is possible with the assembly in place.
- Using a multimeter in Continuity mode, place the probes on the element's terminals. A beep indicates continuity. No beep means it’s time to replace the element.
- To test for shorts, place one probe on a terminal and the other on the metal housing. Repeat with the second terminal. If there’s continuity between a terminal and the metal housing, the element has shorted out and needs replacing.
The thermal fuse or thermostat might have blown.
If the thermal fuse or thermostat is burnt out, your dryer won’t heat. On newer dryers, a faulty thermal fuse can prevent the dryer from spinning entirely, but older models may still spin without heat if the fuse is bad. If you're able to disassemble your dryer and use a multimeter, you can often identify the problem by testing for continuity and replace the fuse on your own.
- Start by checking your dryer’s manual to find where the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat are located.
- Before opening your dryer, make sure to unplug it from the wall. If you have a gas dryer, remember to disconnect the gas supply as well.
- Remove the thermal fuse and thermostat from your dryer.
- Set your multimeter to Continuity mode.
- Touch the probes to both terminals of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps, the fuse is fine, and you can check the thermostat. If there's no beep, you’ll need to replace both the fuse and the thermostat.
- Test the thermostat the same way using your multimeter. If the thermostat fails, replace both parts—the thermostat and the thermal fuse.
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This guide applies to the following models:
- CADE165RAL
- CADG265RAL
- CADG265RBL
- CADG265RCL
- DBLR333ET0AA
- DBLR333ET0WW
- DBXR300EG3WS
- DHDSR46EG8WW
- GHDX100EM0WW
- GTDP180ED2WW
- GTDP180ED3WW
- GTDP200EM0WW
- GTDP200EM1WW
- GTDP200EM2WW
- GTDP220EF0WW
- GTDP220EF1WW
- GTDP220EF2WW
- GTDX200EM0WW
- GTDX200EM1WW
- GTDX200EM2WW
- GTDX205EM1CC
