How to Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree

Select a species that suits your climate. Not all bonsai trees are the same. Many perennial woody plants and even some tropical species can be shaped into bonsai, but not every type will thrive in your location. When choosing a species, it’s crucial to consider the climate where the tree will be grown. For instance, some trees cannot survive freezing temperatures, while others actually require a drop below freezing to enter dormancy and prepare for spring. Before starting your bonsai journey, ensure the species you’ve chosen can thrive in your area—especially if you plan to grow it outdoors. Nursery staff can assist if you’re unsure.

• Juniper trees are an excellent choice for beginners. These hardy evergreens thrive across the Northern Hemisphere and even in milder regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Junipers are also easy to care for—they respond well to pruning and shaping, and since they remain green year-round, they never lose their leaves.
• Other conifers commonly used for bonsai include pine, spruce, and cedar trees. Deciduous trees are another option—Japanese maples are particularly stunning, as are magnolias, elms, and oaks. Finally, some tropical non-woody plants, like jade and portulacaria, are great choices for indoor environments in temperate or cooler climates.

Decide whether you will grow your bonsai indoors or outdoors. The needs of indoor and outdoor bonsai trees can vary significantly. Generally, indoor environments are drier and have less light compared to outdoor settings, so you should select trees that require less light and humidity. Below is a list of some of the most popular bonsai species, categorized by their suitability for indoor or outdoor environments:

• Indoor: Ficus, Schefflera, Serissa, Gardenia, Camellia.
• Outdoor: Juniper, Cypress, Cedar, Maple, Birch, Oak, Ginkgo, Pine, Elm.
• Note that some cold-resistant varieties like juniper are suitable for both indoor and outdoor cultivation, provided they are properly cared for.

Choose the size of your bonsai tree. Bonsai trees come in a wide range of sizes. Mature trees can be as small as 6 inches or as tall as 3 feet, depending on the species. If you choose to grow bonsai from seedlings or cuttings from another tree, they can be even smaller. Larger trees require more water, soil, and sunlight, so make sure you have all the necessary conditions before purchasing a tree.

• Here are a few things you will want to consider when deciding on the size of your bonsai tree:
  • The size of the pot you will use
  • The amount of space you have at home or in the office
  • The amount of sunlight the tree will receive at your home or office
  • The level of care you can invest in the tree (larger trees take more time to prune)

Visualize the finished product while selecting your tree. Once you have decided on the type and size of the bonsai tree you want to grow, you can visit a nursery or plant store to choose the tree you will cultivate. When selecting, look for trees with healthy, vibrant green leaves or needles to ensure the tree is healthy (however, remember that deciduous trees may change leaf color in the fall). Finally, when you have narrowed your search to the healthiest, most beautiful trees, imagine what each tree will look like after pruning. Part of the joy of growing bonsai is gradually pruning and shaping the tree until it looks exactly as you envision—this can take many years. Choose a tree with a natural shape that closely resembles the design you have in mind.

• Note that if you choose to grow bonsai from seeds, you can control the growth of the tree at almost every stage of its development. However, it may take up to 5 years (depending on the species) for the seed to grow into a mature tree. Therefore, if you prefer to prune or shape the tree immediately, it is better to buy an already mature tree.
• Another option you might consider is growing bonsai from cuttings. Cuttings are branches cut from a growing tree and planted in new soil to create a separate tree (but genetically identical). Cuttings are a good choice—they do not take as long to grow as seeds, but still give you control over the tree's growth.

Choose a pot. The characteristic of bonsai trees is that they are grown in pots to limit their growth. The most important factor in choosing a pot is to ensure it is large enough for the soil to cover all the roots of the tree. When you water the tree, it will absorb moisture from the soil through the roots. A small amount of soil will prevent the roots from retaining moisture. To prevent root rot, the pot must have drainage holes at the bottom. If not, you can also drill these holes yourself.

• On one hand, the pot must be large enough to support the tree, and on the other hand, it must also ensure aesthetic neatness and order for your bonsai. A pot that is too large can dwarf the tree, creating an awkward or unattractive appearance. Buy a pot that is large enough for the tree's roots, but not too large—ideally, the pot should complement the tree aesthetically without being too conspicuous.
• Some people prefer to grow bonsai in simple, practical pots and then transfer them to more attractive pots once they have fully developed. This process is particularly useful if the bonsai species you are growing is delicate, as it allows you to avoid purchasing a "beautiful" pot until your tree is healthy and beautiful.

Prepare the tree. If you've just purchased a bonsai from a store and its plastic pot is unattractive, or if you've grown your own bonsai and finally want to place it in a perfect pot, you'll need to prepare it before relocating. First, ensure the tree has been pruned into the desired shape. If you want the tree to grow in a specific way after repotting, wrap a sturdy wire around the tree or branch to gradually guide its growth. Shape the tree to perfection before moving it to a new pot, as this transition can be challenging for the plant.

• Note that trees with seasonal life cycles (e.g., many deciduous trees) are best repotted in spring. Rising temperatures in spring help many trees enter a strong growth phase, meaning they recover faster after pruning and root trimming.
• You may need to reduce watering before repotting. Dry and loose soil makes the task much easier compared to damp soil.

Remove the tree and clean the roots. Carefully take the tree out of its old pot, ensuring you don't break or scratch the main trunk. You may need a small shovel to help lift the tree out. Most roots will be trimmed before the tree is replanted in the bonsai pot. However, to clearly see the roots, you'll typically need to brush off the soil clinging to them. Clean the roots thoroughly, removing any soil that obstructs your view. Root rakes, chopsticks, tweezers, and similar tools are helpful for this process.

• The roots don't need to be spotless—just clean enough for you to see what you're doing while pruning them.

Prune the roots. If you don't properly control the tree's growth, a bonsai can easily outgrow its pot. To ensure your bonsai remains manageable and tidy, prune its roots when repotting. Cut away thick, large roots and upward-growing roots, leaving behind clusters of long, slender roots that grow close to the surface. Water is absorbed through the root tips, so in small pots, many fine roots are generally better than a single large, deep root.

Prepare the pot. Before placing the tree in the pot, ensure the new soil is clean and ready to help the tree reach its desired height. Place a layer of coarse soil at the bottom of the pot. Then, add a finer, well-draining soil mix on top. Using non-draining soil or potting mix can drown the tree. Leave a small space at the top of the pot to cover the tree's roots.

Place the tree in the pot. Position the tree in the new pot in the desired orientation. Finish by adding more well-draining, nutrient-rich soil or potting mix to the pot, ensuring the root system is fully covered. If desired, you can add a layer of moss or gravel on top. Besides aesthetics, this can help keep the tree in place.

• If your tree doesn't stand straight in the new pot, thread a thick wire through the drainage holes at the bottom. Tie the wire around the root system to secure the tree in position.
• You may need to install mesh screens over the drainage holes to prevent soil erosion, which occurs when water carries soil out of the pot through the holes.

Caring for Your New Bonsai Tree. Your new tree has just undergone a relatively painful process. For the 2-3 weeks after repotting it into a new container, place it in an area with some shade, avoiding direct wind or scorching sunlight. Water the tree, but refrain from using fertilizer until the roots have firmly established. By allowing your tree to "relax" after repotting, you enable it to adapt to its new home and eventually thrive.

• As noted earlier, deciduous trees with annual life cycles experience a growth spurt in spring. Therefore, it's best to repot them in spring after their dormancy ends. If your deciduous tree is an indoor variety, after it has rooted in its new pot, you might need to move it outdoors where rising temperatures and ample sunlight can trigger its natural "growth spurt."
• Once your bonsai is stable, you might experiment by adding smaller plants to the pot. If arranged and maintained carefully (like the bonsai), this addition can create a vibrant and intriguing landscape. Try using plants that share similar origins with your bonsai so that the same light and watering conditions will support all plants in the pot equally.

Preparing the Seeds. Growing a bonsai from seeds is a lengthy and slow process. Depending on the type of tree you're growing, it might take 4-5 years for the trunk to reach a diameter of 2.5 cm. Some seeds also require precisely adjusted germination conditions. However, this method is perhaps the "ultimate" bonsai-growing experience as it allows you to completely control the tree's growth from the moment it emerges from the soil. To start, purchase seeds of the desired species from a gardening store or collect them from nature.

• Many deciduous trees, like oaks and maples, have easily recognizable seed coats (acorns, etc.) and shed seeds annually. Due to the ease of obtaining their seeds, these trees are excellent choices if you intend to grow bonsai from seeds.
• Try to obtain fresh seeds. The germination period for tree seeds is often shorter than that of flower or vegetable seeds. For example, acorns are "freshest" when harvested in early autumn and still have a bit of green.

Germinating the Seeds. Once you've obtained the right seeds, you must care for them to ensure they germinate. In non-tropical regions with distinct seasons, seeds typically fall from the tree in autumn, then lie dormant throughout winter before sprouting in spring. Seeds of native trees in these areas are often biologically encoded to germinate only after experiencing the cold temperatures of winter and the gradual warmth of spring. In such cases, it's essential to expose the seeds to similar conditions or simulate them in your refrigerator.

• If you live in a temperate environment with clearly defined seasons, simply bury the seeds in a small pot filled with soil and leave it outdoors throughout winter and into spring. If not, you can place the seeds in the refrigerator during winter. Put the seeds in a sealed plastic bag with a bit of moist, porous planting mix (e.g., mineral fertilizer) and bring them out in spring when you see sprouts emerging.
  • To simulate the natural temperature cycle from late autumn to early spring, first place the seed bag at the bottom of the refrigerator. Over the next two weeks, gradually move it up one shelf at a time until it reaches the top, near the cooling unit. Then, in late winter, reverse the process, moving the seed bag down one shelf at a time.

Transferring Seedlings to Trays or Pots. When seedlings begin to sprout, you're ready to nurture them in a small pot filled with your chosen soil. If you allow seeds to germinate naturally outdoors, they usually remain in the pot where you started them. Otherwise, transfer healthy seedlings from the refrigerator to a pot with prepared soil or a seedling tray. Dig a small hole for your seed and bury it so the main sprout points upward and the taproot goes downward. Water your seed immediately. Over time, try to keep the soil around the seed moist but not soggy or muddy, as this can cause rot.

• Do not use fertilizer until about 5 or 6 weeks after the plant has firmly rooted in its new pot. Start with a very small amount of fertilizer, or you might "burn" the young roots, damaging them with excessive exposure to the chemicals in the fertilizer.

Place seedlings in an area with suitable temperatures. As your seeds continue to grow, it’s crucial to avoid exposing them to direct cold temperatures, or you risk losing the young plants. If you live in a region with warm springs, carefully move the seedlings to a sheltered outdoor area where they can enjoy warmth without constant sunlight or strong winds, unless the species naturally thrives in such conditions. However, if you’re growing tropical plants or germinating seeds out of season, it’s best to keep them indoors or in a greenhouse where temperatures are warmer.

• Regardless of where you place the seedlings, ensure they are watered regularly but not excessively. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

Caring for seedlings. Continue a careful watering and sunlight regimen as your seedlings grow. Deciduous trees will sprout two small leaves called cotyledons directly from the seed before developing true leaves and continuing to grow. As your tree matures (a process that often takes years), you can gradually transfer it to larger pots to accommodate its growth until it reaches your desired size.

• Once your tree is relatively stable, you can place it outdoors in a pot where it receives morning sunlight and afternoon shade, unless the species naturally thrives in your geographic region. Tropical and delicate varieties may need to remain indoors permanently if your local climate isn’t suitable for them.