How to Handle Stray Cats

It can be difficult to distinguish whether a cat on the street is lost, feral, or just wandering around its regular neighborhood. With empathy, you can transform the life of a stray pet by helping it reunite with its family. However, always prioritize safety and avoid handling the cat with bare hands: any cat, when frightened, may scratch or bite, potentially transmitting diseases to humans or other pets.

Distinguishing Between Feral and Domestic Cats. Both lost pet cats and feral cats can be either shy or friendly, making it difficult to judge solely by their behavior. A lost domestic cat typically has matted, dirty fur, is often underweight, or may have injuries. If you’re able to touch the cat, check its paws. Cats living outdoors for weeks develop tougher, rougher paw pads compared to the soft paws of a pet cat that stays indoors.

• If the cat tries to escape, avoids eye contact, and doesn’t meow back to you, it’s likely feral and has never been a pet.
• Look for lost cat notices posted on windows, utility poles, local newspapers, or neighborhood websites.
• In winter, observe more carefully. Stray animals seek shelter and food, while domestic pets rarely venture outside. You can track the animal by fresh footprints in the snow if you wake up early before others leave their homes.

Try to approach the animal. If you suspect it’s a stray cat, approach gently and speak in a soft, calm tone. If the cat seems nervous, crouch down to its level. Extend a hand and softly call to it. If there’s no response, return later with a tempting treat like a piece of tuna or dried liver.

• Experiment with different tones of voice, as some cats respond to high-pitched voices, others prefer low tones, or even a simple “meow.”
• Don’t get too close if the cat appears anxious or stressed. Cats may scratch or bite if they feel cornered or frightened.

Check for a collar tag. If the cat is wearing a collar and allows you to get close enough to read the contact number or address, reach out to the owner to find out if it’s been allowed outside.

• Some collars only list the contact details of a veterinarian or clinic. The vet might not be allowed to share the owner’s contact information, but they could pass along a message for you.

Provide shelter, water, and catnip for the stray cat. This may help keep the cat close until you can assist it further. Place food outside late at night in a tight space where the cat can fit, but larger animals can’t.

• During cold weather, a little oil from a sardine can drizzled over dry food can be very effective.
• Don’t place food outside until you’re sure it’s a stray pet, as it might attract wild animals or someone else’s pet (which could be on a controlled feeding schedule).

Consider contacting an expert. If you’re unable to approach the cat, you can call your local Animal Control or animal rescue organization to send someone to capture it. Be sure to inquire about their policies before calling, especially if the cat isn’t wearing a collar. Many places euthanize unadopted cats, while others follow more humane practices like Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR), allowing the cat to be released without increasing the stray population.

• Animal rescue organizations often provide a better life for stray animals. The cat won’t have to endure hunger, injury, or exposure to the elements.

Set a trap yourself. If you prefer to catch the cat on your own, you can purchase a “humane” cage trap at a home goods store, or ask Animal Control if they can lend you one. Cover the metal trigger plate and the bottom of the trap with newspaper to prevent the cat from instinctively avoiding the metal. Bait the trap with strong-smelling food. Canned herring, mackerel, or oil-packed sardines (not vinegar-soaked) work very well.

• Don’t set the trigger too sensitive. If the cat trips the trap too soon and escapes, it will never return. It’s better to avoid the risk and reset the trap with fresh bait for another try.
• Too much bait could get messy if the cat panics and scatters the food or vomits.
• During cold weather, use a towel or fabric to cover the trap, and pile snow on top to keep the cat warm and calm once it’s trapped.

Regularly check the trap, but proceed with caution. It's important to check the trap as often as possible, but approach slowly to avoid scaring the cat. If the trap isn't working after one or two days, try the following gradual approach:

• Do not set the trap.
• At the same time every day (preferably late afternoon), place food near the trap.
• Gradually move the food closer to the trap, eventually placing it inside. If the cat doesn't enter, try using a cloth sprayed with pheromone to cover the trap.
• Once the cat regularly eats from the trap, set it.

Decide how to handle the cat once trapped. After trapping the cat, contact your local animal rescue center to ask about their regulations. In some areas of the US, you must take the stray to them so the owner has a chance to find it. Depending on the response from the rescue center and the behavior of the cat, make your decision:

• If you're not planning to keep the cat, contact the rescue center or animal control agency in advance to have them come and pick it up. Keep the cat in a quiet, dark place while waiting, minimizing the wait time as it can be very stressful for the animal.
• A lost pet typically has dirty fur, meows, and looks at people. Eventually, it may calm down, move towards the cage door, explore toys, or approach people. Continue to search for its owner or decide to keep it.
• Wild (untrained) cats often stay deep inside the cage, may shake or bang against the cage walls, and ignore toys or people. Learn how to handle the animal and explore other methods to confirm if it's truly wild.

Prepare a safe space for the cat. Ideally, choose a room that is secure to prevent the cat from escaping, quiet, unused, easy to clean, and nearly empty. A spare bathroom or a corner of a hallway can be suitable. Equip the room with the following items:

• A comfortable seat for you to sit quietly while the cat adjusts to your presence.
• A cozy hiding spot where the cat can observe the room, such as a high-sided cat crate.
• Water
• A litter box for the cat to use.
• You can also place a scratching post or toys in the room, though the cat may be too stressed to play.

Release the cat carefully. Wear gloves and keep the trap or cage at a distance when releasing the cat. Most cats will rush to hide, but some may attempt to escape.

• Close the door. Cats are fast and may leap past you to escape through the door.

Keep the cat separate from other pets in the house. The room where the cat is kept should have no way for other pets to enter, even small gaps, as they may smell each other and diseases could be transmitted through this route. Change your clothes and shoes, wash your hands, and clean any areas that came into contact with the cat before leaving the room to avoid spreading illness to other pets in the home.

• Cats can also transmit diseases to humans. If bitten by the cat, wash the wound with soap and water and immediately consult a doctor about the risk of rabies, a deadly disease if not treated with a vaccine. If scratched, wash immediately with soap and water and consult a doctor if the area becomes red or swollen, or if you experience swollen glands, headaches, fever, or fatigue.

Give the cat time to calm down for a few hours. Once the cat has calmed down, gently enter the room with food and a camera. Try to observe the cat closely, and it’s best to take a clear photo so you can begin searching for its owner.

• The cat is unlikely to become aggressive, but immediately leave the room if you notice these signs: ears flat against its head, dilated pupils, crouching in preparation to jump, tense body language, or slowly advancing towards you while keeping its head low.
• If the cat hisses or growls softly without other warning signs, it is likely just scared. Do not approach it, but don’t fear it will attack.

Try to identify the cat’s owner. Start searching for the cat’s owner as soon as possible. If the cat isn’t wearing a collar, try the following:

• Talk to neighbors.
• Take the cat to the vet to check if it has a microchip.
• Call animal rescue organizations to see if anyone has reported a missing cat that matches the one you’ve found.
• Post flyers with the word 'FOUND' in large letters, including a photo of the cat’s face.
• Check local lost and found listings in the newspaper. You can often post a free listing under the “Found” section.
• Do not disclose identifying details about the cat other than its fur color or a photo of its face.

Respond to someone who may be the cat’s owner. If someone calls in response, ask them about the cat’s gender and other distinguishing characteristics to confirm they are the rightful owner. If the cat has no special identifying marks, inquire about its health records and vaccinations, including a description of the cat, or ask for details from the vet. Although rare, someone might pose as the owner to take the cat for resale or personal care without paying a fee.

• If the cat hasn’t been vaccinated or spayed/neutered (and left home when it was due for vaccinations), you might want to inform an animal rescue organization. They can take the cat and require the owner to complete medical procedures before returning it.

Feed and care for the cat on a regular schedule. Always serve the cat's food personally, and if the cat permits, stay in the room while it eats. Food is the most effective tool to gain its trust. If the cat refuses to eat in your presence, you can allow it to eat alone, but ensure that it knows you are the one providing the food.

• Having a familiar routine will help the cat anticipate your arrival, reducing its fear and encouraging it to wait eagerly for the food you provide.
• Sit on a chair for a few minutes each day, at least once or twice, allowing the cat to get accustomed to your presence. Show the cat that you are not a threat: move slowly, crouch down to appear smaller, avoid direct eye contact, blink slowly, pretend to sleep, or stay silent.

Try to touch the cat. It may take two to three weeks of brief daily interactions before the cat can feel calm and comfortable eating near you. At this stage, gently extend your hand to place a treat closer to the cat, getting as close as possible before it recoils, growls, or shows signs of aggression. Do not throw food or extend your fingers. Repeat this motion, gradually getting closer if the cat tolerates it. Eventually, allow the cat to sniff your hand. Let it sniff, then pull your hand away. If the cat approaches, gently pet its shoulders or any part it rubs against you. Pet slowly and gently, as the cat may still be sensitive.

• Pay attention to the cat's body language. Most lost pets will allow you to touch them once they've calmed down and will show warning signs if they're uncomfortable. (You can disregard hissing as long as the cat doesn't continue hissing or growling excessively.)
• There is a higher risk of injury if the cat is truly feral. If the cat doesn't wear a collar, doesn't meow, or doesn’t approach you, check for signs that it may be a feral cat.

Adopt the cat. If you have made a reasonable effort to find the cat's owner (according to the law in some regions) and no one responds within a month, you can adopt the cat or hand it over to an animal rescue organization. If you choose to make the cat a family member, follow these steps:

• Take the cat to the vet for a health check, testing for feline leukemia virus (FELV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), feline distemper, rabies, and parasites. Ensure the cat is vaccinated and treated accordingly. Keep the cat away from other pets in the house until all procedures are completed, including staying away from your clothing.
• Spay or neuter the cat to improve its health and behavior. Look for a low-cost spay/neuter clinic to save on expenses.
• Gradually introduce the cat to other rooms and pets in the house, one step at a time, introducing it to one room or one member at a time.

Be sure it is a feral cat. Feral cats have never been kept as pets, never meow at people, or make eye contact with them. Feral cats tend to have cleaner, more organized coats than lost pet cats because they groom themselves. Additionally, look for signs such as:

• Feral male cats often haven't been neutered. They tend to have more muscle mass, a fuller face, and a more rugged appearance than neutered cats. Some feral males may have coarser and shinier coats or areas of hair loss near the tail (“rat tail”).
• A clipped ear tip is the international sign of a neutered feral cat.
• Female feral cats usually live near garbage dumps or other food sources. It can be difficult to distinguish a wandering female cat from a lost house cat when encountered alone. Female cats that are pregnant or nursing (with enlarged mammary glands) are likely feral.

Spay or neuter the cat. If the cat doesn't have a clipped ear tip, take it to the vet for spaying or neutering. It is recommended to spay or neuter the cat before releasing it to prevent disruptive behaviors (such as marking with urine or excessive yowling) and to avoid increasing the population of feral cats. If the animal rescue or veterinary clinic is involved in a Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) program, they may perform the procedure for free. Take the cat to the vet immediately to avoid it being trapped for more than 12 hours.

• If you decide to participate in a TNR program, consider purchasing a transfer cage. It's a trap and cage with a door that leads into a larger area, allowing the cat to move without escaping.
• You can also check directly whether the cat has been neutered or spayed by observing male and female cats. However, this often requires physical contact with the cat, so it is not recommended until you have been trained and have experience.

Care for the cat overnight. Typically, it takes 24 hours for a cat to recover from surgery, but some female cats may require up to 48 hours. Cover the trap or cage with a cloth and place it in a room with a comfortable temperature, as the cat may not be able to regulate its body temperature due to the anesthesia. Keep the room as quiet as possible and do not allow other people or pets to enter. Monitor the cat closely:

• Feed kittens immediately after they wake up, and feed adult cats eight hours after they wake. Open the trap door slightly and place some food and water in a plastic lid inside the trap without inserting your hand. Do not attempt this if you are unsure about doing it safely. Cats do not need to eat immediately to be fine.
• Call the emergency number of the vet clinic or your regular vet if the cat experiences bleeding, difficulty breathing, vomiting, or does not wake up. If the cat vomits while drowsy, gently tilt the trap to allow the vomit to drain from the cat's throat.

Release the cat. Adult feral cats are almost impossible to train to become indoor pets. Bring the trap back to the location where you trapped the cat, open it, and wait for the cat to exit on its own.

• Disinfect and clean the trap before using it to capture other animals.
• If you do not want the cat to stay in the neighborhood, take it to an animal rescue organization. Cats rarely adapt well to being released in a new area, but rescue staff will know how to maximize the chances of success.

Help a feral cat. If you want to help the cat, you can provide food and water near where you trapped it. Feral cats are vulnerable to cold weather, so providing them with a shelter and a source of warm water (a bowl of warm water) during winter can be very beneficial for them during the colder months.

Taming a feral cat. If the cat shows friendly behavior toward humans, or is younger than four months old, you can attempt to domesticate it as a partially tamed pet. The first step is to take the cat to the vet for deworming and vaccinations. Then, gradually introduce the cat to different rooms in your house, one room at a time. You may succeed in forming a bond with the animal. Keep in mind that this will be much more difficult with adult feral cats, and you may have to release it if you don’t see any results.