How to Install Artificial Grass

Apply Weed Killer. To address the existing weeds in the area you're planning to work on, apply a weed killer or similar products to eliminate all weeds in the area. Make sure to spray the chemical at least two weeks before starting the project so that it has enough time to take effect and kill all the weeds. This ensures that all plants are completely eradicated, down to their roots.

Remove the Topsoil Layer. When installing artificial grass on soil, you must excavate 7.5-10 centimeters of the topsoil to create a space for the grass installation. You can use a soil tiller to dig and break up the topsoil. Remove all plants and weeds in the area, as they could cause uneven surfaces once they die off.

• If the soil is wet, wait for a few days until it dries before starting to dig to avoid sinking.
• After digging, while the surface doesn't need to be perfectly level, it’s recommended to walk on it or use a tamper to compress the loose soil. The surface should have a slight slope to improve water drainage.

Design the Drainage System. Installing on well-drained soil doesn’t present many drainage issues since artificial grass allows water to pass through, and the underlying material (described below) also has good drainage properties. If you lay artificial grass on poorly drained soil or hard surfaces like concrete, consider the following:

• If there’s no drainage near the grass, you must install a drainage system before continuing.
• If the area typically experiences only light rainfall, you can leave small drainage gaps 15 cm apart around the perimeter.

Install the Perimeter Border. Install a waterproof perimeter border around the edge of the lawn if one is not already in place, to prevent the artificial grass from sinking or separating over time. Using flexible plastic edging is an effective option.

• If you prefer a more robust solution, you can pour a concrete edge around the area.
• Ensure that the border doesn’t protrude above the grass surface to avoid obstructing drainage.

Lay Weed Barrier Fabric (Optional). If you're worried about weeds growing through the artificial grass, lay a layer of geotextile fabric at the bottom of the excavated area. This fabric will also prevent rodents and earthworms from burrowing through the artificial grass.

• Remember, geotextile fabric is tightly woven and quite thick. You can purchase this fabric from artificial grass suppliers, garden centers, or landscaping and irrigation equipment companies. It’s different from the type of weed barrier fabric sold at home improvement stores.
• Alternatively, you can place this fabric above the base material.
• If you're dealing with rodent issues, consider installing a rodent-proof mesh.
• Contact a pest control company to help eliminate them. Without proper prevention, they may damage your artificial grass.

Lay the Base Material. Purchase gravel, crushed stone, or weathered granite with particle sizes under 10 mm. Pour a 7.5 - 10 cm layer of this material into the excavated area to prevent the grass from sinking and improve drainage.

• You will need approximately 0.8 cubic meters of material for every 10 square meters of grass. The product specifications will provide a more accurate estimate.
• If you're installing the grass on concrete or another hard surface, you can use shock-absorbing rubber mats or self-leveling mix. Alternatively, skip this step if you're confident that the concrete has the proper slope for drainage, and you can fully cover the edges with artificial grass.
• If children will be playing on the artificial lawn, it's recommended to use shock-absorbing mats for safety.

Level the Base Surface. Level the base material using a specialized rake. Use a water level, string line, and a ruler to create a slope of approximately 2-3% (a 0.5-1m height difference over 30m), directing the slope toward the drainage system or perimeter border.

Moisten and Compact the Base Surface. Use a garden hose to lightly moisten the gravel or sand (do not overwater) to lubricate the aggregate particles before compacting. Use a plate compactor, roller, or hand tamper to compress the base material, reducing its depth by 90% of its original depth or less (approximately 7.5 mm). This means you'll need to go over the area multiple times, moving in different directions and overlapping each pass for maximum effectiveness.

• A vibrating plate compactor is the most effective choice for compacting the base material.
• You can rent these tools from a store, or if you wish to buy one, a hand tamper is the most affordable option.

Unroll the Grass in the Surrounding Area While Waiting for the Base to Dry. Lay the artificial grass nearby since it will take several hours to regain its shape after being rolled for transport. Wait until the base has dried, then check to ensure that the surface is level and firm before proceeding.

• If the surface isn't level, you will need to compact it further.
• If the base is lower than expected, you may need to add another layer and compact it to ensure a relatively flat connection between the artificial grass and surrounding surfaces.

Laying the Turf. Measure the surface area to be covered with turf, including the length and width of each roll. With a partner, unroll each section of turf and place it on the prepared base. Avoid dragging the turf across the ground to prevent disturbing the compacted surface.

• For artificial grass, the blades will naturally curl in one direction. Be sure to lay all rolls so that the blades face the same way; otherwise, the turf will look unnatural.

Cutting the Turf When Necessary. Use turf scissors or a utility knife to trim the underside of the roll to fit the shape of the area.

• When making long cuts, do so in small sections at a time and compare each segment with the edge of the turf to ensure accuracy. Mark the cut line on the underside with a pencil for better precision.

Purchase a Turf Stretching Tool (Optional). For optimal results, it is recommended to use a specialized tool to stretch the turf rolls before joining them. Place the tool flat on the turf with the bristles facing down, then apply pressure with your knee to push the tool forward. Stretching the turf helps eliminate wrinkles, minimizes heat expansion, and ensures the turf stays firmly in place.

• This tool is also known as a turf stretcher.

Joining the Turf Rolls Together. There are several methods for connecting two turf rolls. The product from the turf supplier may give the best results as it is designed for the specific type of turf. The most common joining methods are:

• Place the rolls close together, fold the edges of each roll back, and lay a connecting material along the exposed base. Apply adhesive (provided with the product) to the connecting material, then fold the turf edges back to cover the connector and allow it to dry. Always use the recommended adhesive.
• Alternatively, place a strip of heavy-duty outdoor tape on the ground and press the edges of the turf rolls onto it.
• Alternatively, connect the rolls using nails, spaced approximately 7.5 cm apart.

Securing the Turf Perimeter. Use 10-15 cm galvanized nails or specialized anchor pins to secure the edges of the turf, placing them 15 cm apart. Use a hammer to drive the nails in securely, but avoid hammering too hard to prevent indentations on the turf.

• For a more secure hold, stagger the placement of nails on two opposite edges, rather than positioning them directly across from each other.

Spread the Infilling Material or Balat Stones Appropriate for Your Turf. Most artificial turf requires infill material to support the grass blades, press the turf down, and create a cushioning layer for sports activities. Once the turf is completely dry, spread a thin layer of the material (such as one of the options listed above) using your hands or a machine. Rake it to evenly distribute the infill. Repeat until approximately half the height of the grass blades is covered. For best results, use the material type and quantity specified by the manufacturer. Popular options include:

• Clean washed silica sand used as infill to help press the turf down. If the turf requires infill, sand alone may not be sufficient.
• Rubber granules provide the best cushioning and help the grass stand upright. However, rubber may become messy if the turf is installed on a slope or when pets relieve themselves on it.
• Copper slag absorbs pet odors more effectively than other options.
• Some dense turf products do not require infill, though experts still recommend it for added stability, even though this remains a debated topic.

Brush the Turf After Each Infilling. After each round of infilling, use a power broom to “brush” the turf and lift the grass blades. If you do not have a power broom, you can use a stiff nylon bristle brush or a turf rake.

Water the Turf. Water helps settle the infill material or balat stones into the turf. The next day, check the results. If the turf doesn't spring back well or the grass blades are too exposed, apply another layer of infill.

• If you prefer, you can use a leaf blower to clean excess sand off the turf surface once the work is completed.

• If you need to install turf on soft ground that is prone to erosion, it's a good idea to first level and compact a layer of large stones, about 2 cm in diameter, followed by a smaller-sized material layer as previously advised. Avoid using stones that are too large, as they might tear or puncture the turf.

• Be cautious not to damage the irrigation pipes when digging the ground for turf installation. If you are using drip irrigation, use caps or clamps to stop water flow along the turf's length.
• Keep the turf installation away from cooking areas, smoking zones, and other heat sources to prevent the grass from catching fire.
• The chlorine in pool water can discolor artificial turf. It is recommended not to install turf within one meter of the pool area.