How to Lay Brick Pavement

Create a Design Plan. A successful brick paving project starts with a solid design. You need to consider where you want to build the path, your home's entrance, or your yard. Next, use graph paper to sketch the scaled plan for your project. You will likely need to adjust the design at some point, so it’s best to use a pencil and keep the drawing clear. The project must have proper drainage for durability and safety. The construction should be slightly sloped away from the house and other structures. For proper water runoff, the slope should be at least 10 mm per meter (many experts recommend 15 mm per meter).

Consult utility companies before starting any construction work. The process of laying brick is not difficult, but it’s important to check with utility companies before beginning your project to ensure that you don’t accidentally damage or obstruct any pipes or cables. You can contact local utility companies for information. When you call, you can request a visit to mark the locations of pipes and cables on your property.

Select materials. There are many types of materials to choose from, mostly bricks or concrete with various sizes, shapes, and colors. You can find something that fits your preferences and budget online or at local hardware stores.

• Generally, if the project doesn’t have unusual shapes, you can estimate the number of bricks needed by simply measuring the area to be paved and adding 5%. If your design includes many curves, you should add 10% to the estimated area.
• It's a good idea to buy a little more material, as you will likely need to cut some bricks to fit the design. The more complex your design, the more bricks you’ll need to cut.
• Keep in mind that paving bricks are heavy. It’s best to have them delivered to your home. You might need to pay an extra fee for the delivery containers.

Mark the area with white marking paint. Marking paint helps to outline the exact location of your project. Another option is to outline the project area with string or garden hoses. You can stake the corners to secure the boundary and use a square tool to create right angles.

Calculate the slope. To avoid water pooling on the bricks, the surface should be slightly raised above the surrounding ground. When calculating the slope, start at the highest point. This is typically near the door or the closest point to the house.

• Place a stake at the highest point and mark the height where the brick surface meets the door or the building. Tie a string around the stake at this height.
• Place a stake at the opposite end (if not already present). This will be the lowest point. Attach a level to the string and tie the other end of the string to the stake at the opposite side where the level indicates the height is balanced. From this height, measure at least 10 mm for every meter (for example, if the distance from the door to the outer edge of the surface is 2.5 meters, lower the height by 2.5 cm) and mark this level. Lower the string to the marked point. Stretch the string across the width of the area to ensure the entire project maintains the correct depth.
• If the surface has multiple slopes or a complex design, you will need to repeat this process at several points. Ensuring the correct slope is a critical step, so the more stakes you use, the better.
• You can hire someone experienced with a laser level and measuring tape. They can achieve the same results faster.
• Be sure to remove the string before you start digging to avoid tripping.

Excavate the area for paving. Generally, for pedestrian areas, a base layer of 10-15 cm is needed, but if you’re constructing a driveway or working on soft ground (such as wet soil), the base layer needs to be up to 30 cm thick. You need to determine how deep the base should be (ask for information from the supplier or building materials store) and add about 2.5 cm to 4 cm for the sand layer, plus the thickness of the paving bricks (which typically range from 6 cm to 8 cm). The total thickness of the base, sand, and bricks will determine the depth you need to excavate. Be sure to dig an additional 15-30 cm outside the boundaries of the project area to leave space for the curb material. This is a crucial factor.

• Additionally, you should level the soil along the edges of the area. You can also spread the base material slightly beyond the edges, then compact it using a machine or hand tools to ensure the edge is firm.
• Measure the depth from the string used to mark the slope rather than from the ground itself.

Choose base materials. Base materials are typically crushed stones with sharp, uneven edges. The two most important characteristics of base materials are their ability to maintain firmness when compacted (to support the paving layer) and their good drainage properties. Poor structure and drainage can compromise a perfectly planned paving project.

Pour the base layer. Pour the base material in layers no thicker than 15 cm at a time, and use a hand tamper (for very small projects) or a compaction machine. The key is to ensure the base is compacted tightly. Repeat this step until the base reaches the desired thickness. This is your final opportunity to adjust the height of the project and ensure the surface is smooth and level. Adjust the thickness of the base layer if necessary, and frequently measure the depth from the string to the base.

• Be sure to spread the base material beyond the edges of the project area. Spreading it beyond the edges will help strengthen the construction.
• Continue spreading and compacting the base material in 5 cm layers until you are approximately 7.5 cm from the desired height. When compacting the base, make sure to maintain a slight slope – usually away from the house.

Install the curb. Curb materials help maintain the shape of the project over time. These are typically made of plastic, aluminum, or steel and are fixed around the perimeter of the project using 30 cm stakes. If the design is special, you will need to cut the curb material to fit the edge of the design.

Spread a layer of sand. Sand is used to hold the paving bricks in place. Use coarse sand and spread it evenly to a thickness of at least 2.5 cm but no more than 4 cm. For larger projects, you can lay down pipes with a diameter of 25 mm in the base, fill the gaps between the pipes with sand, and level the sand in small sections (10-20 square meters per section). Remove the pipes and add more sand to fill the gaps.

• Check if you need to use a weed barrier fabric first. These materials are typically laid down on the soil before the base layer is applied.

Start laying the bricks along the longest edge. Fortunately, laying the bricks is a relatively easy step compared to the others you've completed so far. Begin at a 90-degree corner, preferably at the edge adjoining the house or another structure, and continue along the longest straight edge. Be sure to use bricks from different boxes to mix the colors evenly. Since paving bricks are made from natural materials, their color may vary slightly between batches. It’s best to use bricks from multiple boxes to blend any subtle color differences. Lay the bricks outward from the starting point, ensuring they are aligned in straight rows. Place the bricks directly onto the sand—don’t slide the bricks across the sand or press them into place as this will disturb the sand. Slide each brick along the edge of the neighboring brick. Keep the bricks as close together as possible. If there are large gaps between the bricks, you will need to add polymeric sand to fill the spaces. Periodically check the surface to ensure the bricks are level, using a string line or level to verify the alignment of each row. Frequently use a level on the surface of the bricks to ensure the correct slope and flatness in each row.

• Do not step on the levelled sand surface. Place your feet on the laid bricks and continue laying outward. Avoid getting too close to the edge of the freshly laid bricks to prevent disturbing the sand in front of them.

Cut bricks as needed. You’ll almost always need to cut a few bricks to fit the edges of the area. Avoid attempting to curve the bricks to fit along the border. Instead, lay all the bricks in the correct rows and cut them to size to fit neatly along the edges. Use a masonry saw (which you can rent from tool rental shops) or a brick cutting machine to make clean cuts. If you’ve pre-prepared enough bricks, you will have sufficient material to cover any mistakes you might make!

Press the bricks into the sand. Once all the bricks are laid according to the design, use a plate compactor to press the bricks down into the sand. Run the compactor over the surface of the bricks at least three times to ensure they settle into the sand.

• If there are gaps between the bricks, you can sweep polymeric sand into the joints until they are half-filled. This will keep the bricks from shifting during the compaction process. If the bricks become loose during compaction, the surface may become uneven.
• When compacting the material and bricks, try working in different directions or using various methods to ensure even compaction.
• Remember to cover the compactor with a thick cloth, like burlap, to prevent abrasion on the brick surface during compaction.

Sweep sand into the brick joints. Pour sand into the joints using coarse sand similar to what you’ve used, or you can use slightly finer sand like packaged silica sand (available at building material stores). Pour sand over the surface of the bricks and sweep it into the gaps until all joints are filled. This sand will help secure the bricks in place. Be sure the sand is dry.

• Use a large broom for sweeping larger areas or a smaller broom for smaller sections. Sweep in multiple directions to ensure the sand fills every gap.

Seal the gaps between the bricks. To enhance durability and reduce maintenance, seal the gaps between the bricks with an appropriate sealing product. Choose a non-toxic variety (safe for plants) and remember to clean the surface of the bricks thoroughly before sealing.

• Avoid using excessive water when cleaning the bricks, and ensure the bricks are completely dry before sealing.

• Although not mandatory, geotextile fabric is recommended to prevent soil movement beneath the brick surface and to enhance the stability and strength of the paved area. This fabric is especially useful in areas with high traffic.
• In regions without freezing temperatures, you can substitute edging material with concrete. For certain projects, such as a walkway to your home, edging may not be necessary. You can install edging after laying the bricks.
• These are general guidelines. Always consult the manufacturer’s instructions before laying your pavement.
• If laying bricks on sandy soil, you can mix one 42 kg bag of cement for every 3 square meters of ground to create a stable base. Only use this method for pedestrian walkways or areas with no vehicle traffic.
• For calculating the amount of gravel and sand needed, you can use online calculation tools such as Calculator Soup. Remember to add an additional 2.5 cm to the base material calculation to account for compression loss.
• Clay soil may not remain stable over time. To improve stability, lay geotextile fabric beneath the base and along the edges of the excavated area to create a solid foundation before laying the base material.
• Spray a light mist of water on the gravel base to moisten it. This will help make the compaction process easier.
• Instead of using concrete for the edging, you can mix wet Portland cement and base material underneath the brick border. For example, if you’re using 15 cm x 20 cm bricks for your pathway, dig out the base along the length of the border, pour in wet Portland cement, and place the bricks on top. Tap the bricks down firmly. This way, you’ll create an invisible concrete border that will remain intact even if the surface bricks crack.

• Always check with your local utility company before digging. Keep in mind that you could be seriously injured or even killed if you encounter power lines.
• When cutting materials that contain cement, both the cutter and those nearby will be exposed to dust containing silica particles, which can have long-term, severe health effects, including silicosis.
• Be cautious when using tools like a plate compactor or saw. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and be aware of any safety warnings. Always wear protective goggles when cutting bricks.

• Paving stones (paving bricks)
• Base materials – coarse gravel, etc...
• Sand
• Edging materials or concrete curbing
• Surveying instrument
• String, stakes, and level
• Measuring tape
• Graph paper and pencil
• Plate compactor or hand tamper
• Rake or pipe
• Masonry saw or tile cutter
• Protective eyewear