How to Make a Corset

Corsets were once all the rage in the 16th century, and today, they are worn as lingerie, costumes, or eye-catching accessories for outerwear. Sewing a corset can be time-consuming and tricky, but there are simpler methods that even beginners can use as long as they have basic sewing skills.

Find or Create a Pattern. Beginners should look for corset patterns online or in catalogs to create a customized design. The best pattern is one that can be adjusted to your measurements.

• If you're new to sewing, a basic, simple pattern is better than a complex one. Corsets are tricky to sew, so you should aim for an easier project in the first few attempts.
• You can find free corset patterns online or purchase them, though the best ones tend to come with a price tag. You can also check sewing stores for patterns.
• Alternatively, you can create your own custom pattern, but this involves measuring and drawing out the design on graph paper, which can be quite complicated.

Take Your Measurements. A good pattern will have several sizes marked, usually ranging from size 6 to size 26. Most patterns leave about 5 cm at the back for the corset lacing, so don't be surprised if it seems smaller than expected. Choose your size based on your bust, waist, and hip measurements. Once you've found your size, cut out the pattern.

Select Your Fabric. The best fabric for making a corset is corset coutil, specifically designed for corsetry. It is made from 100% cotton, which is breathable, durable, and has very little stretch in any direction. If coutil fabric is unavailable, you can use high-quality canvas or linen fabric instead.

• If you opt for canvas or linen, note that the finished corset will stretch more and usually fit a bit looser than one made with coutil fabric.
• You can add a lining to your corset for extra comfort. Use tightly woven cotton or cotton-blend fabric to cut and sew the lining according to the corset pattern.
• When selecting thread for your corset, test the strength of the thread before sewing. While general-purpose thread works, you should test its strength by pulling on it by hand. If it doesn't snap easily, it's good to use. Avoid weak thread, as corsets require strong, durable stitching.

Prepare Your Fabric. Wash and dry your fabric before use, then press it to remove wrinkles and creases before cutting.

• Check the grain of the fabric. If you look closely, you'll see two main directions: the 'crosswise grain' (horizontal threads) and the 'lengthwise grain' (vertical threads). These are sometimes referred to as the 'warp' and 'weft.' Cut your fabric along the direction that has the most stretch. Gently pull on both directions and notice which one stretches more. Usually, there will be a red line on the fabric indicating the grainline direction, with the perpendicular line being the crosswise grain.

Pin the Pattern to the Fabric. Place your pattern on the fabric along the direction with the most stretch, which is usually the crosswise grain. Avoid placing it along the waistline stretch. Pin the pattern securely to the fabric.

• You may also use weights or heavy objects to hold the pattern in place. If you choose this method, it's a good idea to mark the pattern with chalk before cutting to prevent it from shifting while cutting the fabric.

Cut Out the Fabric Pieces. Be sure to cut the fabric pieces according to the pattern instructions. Take your time to cut carefully, as precise measurements are essential for a well-fitting corset.

• Depending on the pattern, some parts may require two pieces. For instance, you might need to cut two pieces for the back center, one piece for the front center, and additional pieces that are also cut on the fabric fold without adding seam allowance. Follow the pattern instructions to know how many pieces to cut.

Pin the Pieces Together. Attach all the fabric pieces following the pattern instructions. Secure the pieces so they don’t shift while sewing.

• You can also use temporary basting stitches (which will be removed later) to hold the fabric pieces together.
• If the seams align perfectly, you can simply match the top edges of the fabric pieces and adjust your sewing machine while stitching, without needing to pin or baste.

Sew the Fabric Pieces Together. Use tight stitches to join the fabric pieces in the correct order. Start from the top and sew slowly along the fabric, making sure the fabric doesn’t bunch up or shift. Once you’re done, you’ll have two halves of the corset.

• Be sure to follow the pattern instructions carefully when sewing the pieces together. You can mark the wrong side of the fabric with white chalk to avoid confusion.

Press the Seams Open. After sewing all the seams, press the fabric edges open and flatten them against the wrong side of the corset.

• If necessary, trim any excess fabric to prevent bunching.
• You can also press the seams as you sew to keep them neat.

Finish the Edges to Prevent Fraying. Instead of sewing the corset pieces together directly, you’ll use eyelets and a lacing system at the back to hold everything in place. To keep the edges neat and prevent fraying, finish the fabric edges with a clean stitch.

• Remember not to finish the top and bottom edges of the corset, as these areas will need to be hemmed for the edging to be added later.

Sew the Waist Reinforcement Band. Cut two non-stretch fabric strips for each half of the corset, then place them across the most stretched area of the corset (you can pull the corset to identify this area). Baste the waist reinforcement band into the seam on the wrong side of the corset.

• You can use durable fabric strips or ribbon, about 1.5 – 2 cm wide, for the waistband. Measure your desired waist size, add 5 cm, and divide by 2 to determine the length of each waistband. Cut two equal-length strips to attach to both halves of the corset.
• When sewing the waist reinforcement band, align both halves of the corset so they match evenly on both sides.

Sew the Boning Channels. Fold both edges of the fabric tape towards the center on the back, then sew it into the center of each corset piece to create boning channels about 1 cm wide. If you prefer fewer visible seams on the front of the corset, you can sew along existing seams.

• You can also use a fabric strip approximately 2.5 cm wide to create the boning channels if fabric tape is not available.

Sew the Right Corset Fastening Strip. Turn the inside of the right half of the corset, then use chalk to mark a seam about 1.5 cm from the edge of the corset. Place the fastening strip (the side with hooks) along the chalk line, about 2 cm from the top edge of the corset. Make sure to position it with the wrong side facing up. Sew along the fastening strip to attach it to the corset.

• The fastening strip is a piece of binding with “slots or hooks” that will connect the front of the corset (so you don't have to undo the lacing at the back every time you wear the corset). You can find fastening strips at most sewing supply stores.

Sew the Hook and Eye Fasteners. Choose small metal hooks that fit into the slots of the fastening strip and align them with the corresponding slots on the right fastening strip. Then, attach these hooks near the edge of the left piece on the back side of the fabric.

Attach the bottom hem binding. This step involves finishing the corset's hemline and hiding any raw fabric edges. To use faux leather or real leather for the hem binding, place water-soluble fabric tape along the outer edge of the bottom of a corset piece, then press the binding into the tape, fold it over the fabric edge, and secure it inside the corset piece.

• You may also opt for satin ribbon, cotton, or pre-made bias tape as the binding material.

Sew the binding. Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine to sew the pre-attached binding onto the fabric.

• At this stage, you will only be working on the bottom hem of the corset. You still need to insert the boning into the corset before completing the upper portion.

Insert the boning. Measure the length of the boning channel and cut the spiral steel boning to the length of the corset minus 0.5 cm from the top and bottom edges of the corset. Then, insert it into the pre-sewn channels of the corset. You can either cut the boning yourself or purchase pre-cut boning (which is often much easier).

• Spiral steel boning is more flexible and better suited to the curves of the corset compared to traditional steel bones.
• To avoid sharp edges from the boning, you can apply hot glue or craft glue to seal both ends of the boning.

Sew the top hem binding of the corset. Use the same binding and sewing technique as the bottom hem to attach the top hem binding of the corset.

Attach the lacing holes. Place the lacing holes about 2.5 cm apart along the back sides, close to the edge of the corset. When reaching the waist area, position 4 pairs of holes closer together (approximately 0.5 cm). You can purchase lacing holes and laces from sewing supply stores.

• Lacing holes are the small openings on the back of the corset used to thread the laces through.
• Use a fabric prying tool, leather punch, or a shoemaker's awl to create the lacing holes.
• Use a rubber mallet to secure the lacing holes on both sides.

Lace up the corset. Start from the top of the corset and thread the laces down towards the waist in a criss-cross pattern. Lace from the bottom up in the same pattern, stopping at the waist. Tie the laces together at the waist in a "bunny ears" knot or a "tennis shoe" knot.

• You will need about 4.5 meters of lace in total.
• Ribbon or woven laces are the most traditional and correct for this task, but flat or braided laces are more durable.

Wear the corset. The top edge of the corset should sit just above the nipple area, and the bottom edge should extend across the hips without riding up.

• Tighten the corset by pulling the laces at the waist to cinch it in.

• Measuring tape
• Pins or weights to hold down the pattern
• Tailor's chalk
• 1.5 meters of your preferred coutil fabric
• Waist tape or ribbon
• Flat or spiral steel boning
• Fabric tape for inserting the boning
• High-quality, durable sewing thread
• 2-part 5mm eyelets
• Sewing machine
• Tailor's awl or fabric/leather punch
• Water-soluble fabric tape
• Edge binding
• Lacing cord
• Corset fastening hooks and buttons