How to Make Dried Flowers

Do you want your cozy little home to be filled with the beauty of flowers even in the cold winter months? You can achieve this by creating dried flowers from your favorite blooms. There are several methods for drying flowers, and experimenting to discover the best technique for each type of flower can be a very enjoyable process.

Pick the flowers. The natural drying method works best when the flowers are just beginning to bloom. During the drying process, the flowers will continue to open slightly. If you pick fully bloomed flowers, the petals may fall off while drying. This method is ideal for small, sturdy flowers like lavender or petunias.

• Flowers that are wilting or have pests will not dry well. Therefore, choose the best flowers and pick more than you need, just in case some get damaged.

Flower Bouquet. Remove all the leaves from the flower stems. Separate each flower branch and tie them into small bunches of about 10 stems per type. For larger flowers like roses, hydrangeas, or peonies, it's best to dry each flower separately.

Use a rubber band to tie the flower stems. Wrap the rubber band around 2-3 flower stems, then tie it around the whole bouquet. Finally, loop the band around 2-3 other stems. The stems will shrink as they dry, and this method will help secure them properly.

Hang the flowers upside down. Hang the flowers in a warm, dark place to prevent rot and fading. A well-ventilated area will help the flowers dry faster and avoid mold. Hang the bouquets with some space between them in a drafty area, at least 15 cm from the ceiling.

Wait 2-4 weeks. Flowers are properly dried when their petals become brittle. Sometimes, it may take more than 4 weeks to dry flowers, depending on the room conditions or the thickness of the petals.

Preserve with hairspray (optional). A light coat of hairspray or floral spray will help hold the flowers' shape and protect them from breaking or losing petals.

Choose the flowers. The best flowers for this method are those with many petals and smooth, non-fuzzy surfaces. Roses, zinnias, and marigolds are ideal options, while flowers with thick petals won't yield great results. Cut the flowers when they are half-bloomed, with firm petals, before they begin to fall off.

• Cut the flowers so that the stems are only about 2.5–5 cm long.

Attach wire (optional). After microwaving, the flower stems will retain their shape. If you'd like to bend the stems, you can attach a piece of wire to the calyx, then twist it around the stem in a spiral. However, do not place metal in the microwave.

• If the calyx isn't thick enough, you can thread the wire through the center of the flower and down the stem, pushing the wire down as far as possible to hide it.

Pour the drying agent into a microwave-safe container. The drying agent should be any material capable of absorbing moisture. Silica gel is the best choice for flowers with thin, colorful petals, but you can also use cat litter as a substitute, or a mixture of borax and cornstarch in a 1:1 ratio. Fill the container with the material to a depth of about 2.5-5 cm.

Submerge the flowers in the drying agent. Gently place each flower face down into the drying agent, keeping them at least 2 cm apart. Then, slowly pour more drying agent over the flowers.

• Use a toothpick to rearrange any petals that become bent and lose their original shape during the drying process.
• Start by testing with 1-2 flowers to prevent burning. Over time, you will learn the exact drying time needed for each type of flower.

Place a cup of water in the microwave. The cup of water will help absorb excess energy, preventing the flowers from burning or becoming overly dry.

Turn on the microwave. Place the container with the flowers inside and run the microwave for 2 minutes. Use a toothpick to test if the flowers are dry. If not, continue heating and check every minute.

• You may have to repeat this step multiple times, as different flowers and microwaves require varying times. Some thin flowers, like chrysanthemums, may need a low heat setting, just above defrost, while thicker-petaled flowers will need about 8 minutes on medium or high heat.

Let the flowers cool for one day. Remove the container from the microwave, leave the lid slightly ajar, and let it rest for 24 hours. The drying agent (especially silica gel) needs time to cool and reach a safe temperature.

• For dahlias, pansies, and peonies, leave them for 36 hours. For larger and thicker flowers like roses and carnations, let them sit for about 10 hours.
• Keep the flowers out of reach of children and pets.

Remove the drying agent. Once the container has cooled, gently tap it to reveal the flowers. Carefully lift the flowers, supporting them from below. Use a soft brush to remove any remaining drying agent.

• If desired, you can preserve the flowers by spraying them with hairspray or a special floral spray.

Select the flowers. The flower pressing method works best with small, flat flowers like pansies or lilacs. Avoid large-stemmed flowers or those with delicate, thin petals, as they are prone to damage.

Place flowers on dry paper. Lay the flowers on non-glossy, absorbent paper such as newspaper, cardboard, or paper towels, and then place another sheet of paper on top. Make sure not to stack the flowers on top of each other.

• The more absorbent the paper, the better the flowers will preserve. You can try placing flowers between two sheets of newspaper, then placing the flowers and newspaper between two sheets of absorbent paper, followed by two corrugated cardboard sheets. Finally, use tape to secure the layers together.

Press the flowers. Place a flat, heavy object on top of the flowers. Dictionaries and encyclopedias are good options. You can also use heavy boxes or wooden boards.

• Keep the flowers in a dry, warm place.

Wait for 1-3 weeks. After the first week, replace the paper and continue pressing the flowers under the weight.

Stop pressing. After a few weeks, remove the flowers from the weight and paper layers. The flowers should be crisp, thin as paper, and translucent at this stage.

Prepare the flowers. Cut a piece of fine mesh wire wide enough to fit all your flowers. Then, thread the flower stems through the mesh so that the flower heads remain above while the stems hang freely below.

• The best flowers for this method are those with many petals, such as chrysanthemums or large daisies.

Preheat the oven to a low temperature for a few hours. With a convection oven, set the temperature to 38ºC, place the flowered mesh on the oven rack. A low temperature will allow the flowers to dry gradually; leave them in the oven for several hours. The drying time depends on the type of flower you choose.

• A convection oven with good airflow will yield the best results. Avoid using a regular oven as it tends to trap too much moisture, and its lowest setting is often above 38ºC.

Remove the flowers from the oven. Once the flowers are fully dried, take them out of the oven and place them on a drying rack to cool. Wait until they reach room temperature before proceeding to the next step.

• Spray hairspray or a specialized flower spray to make the dried flowers stiffer and more durable.

Select the flowers. The most suitable flowers for this technique are large, delicate ones that don't easily drop their petals, such as lilies. Ideally, cut the flowers as they begin to bloom and dry them right away.

Pick the drying agent. A drying agent is a material that absorbs moisture from the flowers. No matter your choice, the drying material must be thoroughly dry to work effectively. Here are some commonly used options:

• Silica gel: the fastest option, found in most gardening stores. While it can be pricey, it can be reused multiple times (see the Tips section below).
• Borax and cornstarch: a budget-friendly and straightforward option. Mix the two ingredients in a 1:1 or 1:6 ratio.
• Fine sand: this method helps shape the flowers and dries them by air. While it takes the most time, it is the least expensive option.

Add non-iodized salt (optional). While not universally recommended, some people believe salt helps flowers retain their color better. Try adding 3 teaspoons of salt to 1 liter of another drying material (15 ml/l).

Choose a container. If you have enough material, choose a container that is large enough to hold the entire flower stem upright. However, most people conserve material by cutting off the flower stems and leaving just the blooms to fit in a shallow container. Different materials require different arrangements:

• With silica gel, use a sealed container. A coffee can is ideal for a single flower.
• With borax or sand, use an open container. A sturdy cardboard box works best, but make sure to check for any holes first.

Bury the flowers in the drying agent. Pour the drying material into the container to a depth of 2.5-5 cm. Place the flower upright on the material so it stands firm. Then, slowly pour more drying material over the flower until it is fully covered.

• If using sand, you don't need to bury the flower entirely since the sand just supports the flower, and air helps the petals dry faster.
• For chrysanthemums, it is better to place the flower upside down. For other flowers like snapdragons or zinnias, the best method is to lay the flowers flat.
• If you want to leave the stem, ensure you fill the container with enough drying material to hold the stem in place.

Wait until the flowers dry. Place the flower container in a dry and warm area. If using an open container without a lid, make sure to place it in a well-ventilated spot. After a few days, use a toothpick to check if the flowers have dried.

• Silica gel is the fastest drying material for flowers; it typically takes about 2-4 days for flowers to fully dry. For thick-petaled flowers, it might take about a week. Silica gel turning pink indicates that the gel has reached its moisture absorption limit.
• With a borax mixture, drying the flowers will take 5-14 days.
• Using sand takes the longest, usually from 14 to 21 days.

Remove the flowers. Gently tap the sides of the container to gradually reveal the flowers. Carefully remove the flowers, supporting them from beneath. Use a soft brush to lightly sweep off any drying material.

• If the drying material sticks to the flowers, gently pour sand onto them from a height of about 30 cm to help remove any remaining particles.
• Removing the flowers too early can cause the petals to fall off. Make sure the petals are crisp and thin like paper before removing them.
• Hair spray or floral spray can help reduce the risk of the flowers breaking or falling apart.

• You can also dry the flower calyx containing seeds (usually after the petals have fallen) to create decorative items like floral crowns or lotus bowls. Set up a thin wire mesh or specialized flower netting horizontally and secure it with two wooden planks to create a stand. Hang each calyx from the mesh so that the stem can dangle below.
• Once dried, flowers will generally appear darker. White flowers will often turn brown, while deep red or purple flowers will become black, and yellow flowers tend to maintain their original color.
• Silica gel turns pink when it absorbs moisture. To dry the gel and reuse it, spread it on a baking sheet and place it in the oven at 121ºC for 2-3 hours.

• Flowers will gradually lose their color once they are picked. Therefore, to achieve the best results, it is recommended to dry the flowers immediately after cutting them.