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Making soap at home is an excellent way to fulfill your household needs or create wonderful gifts for friends that are both satisfying and budget-friendly. While you can use a soap-making kit, crafting soap from scratch allows you to select ingredients and customize them to suit your preferences. This article will guide you through making soap using basic ingredients through the cold process method.
Ingredients
- 680 g coconut oil/olive oil
- 1,000 g vegetable fat
- 340 g sodium hydroxide or lye solution
- 900 g purified or distilled water
- 120 ml of your favorite essential oil, such as peppermint, lemon, rose, or lavender
Steps
Preparing to Make Cold Process Soap
Gather your ingredients. Cold process soap is made from oils, lye solution, and water. When combined at the right temperature, these ingredients harden into soap through a process called saponification. You can purchase these materials at craft stores or grocery stores.
Set up your soap-making area. Clear a space in your kitchen, as it’s the easiest place to heat ingredients on the stove. You’ll be handling lye—a hazardous chemical—so ensure children and pets are kept away during the process. Cover your workspace with newspaper and gather the following tools (available online or at craft stores):
- Safety goggles and rubber gloves to protect yourself from lye splashes.
- A scale for weighing ingredients.
- A large stainless steel or enamel pot. Avoid aluminum or non-stick pots.
- A glass or wide-mouthed plastic container for water and lye.
- A 480 ml glass or plastic measuring cup.
- A plastic or wooden spoon.
- An immersion blender. While not essential, it reduces stirring time to about 30 minutes.
- Two glass thermometers capable of measuring 27-38°C. Candy thermometers work well.
- Plastic molds suitable for cold process soap, or a shoebox or wooden mold lined with parchment paper.
- Plenty of paper towels for cleanup.
Learn how to handle lye safely. Before starting, read the safety warnings on the lye container. Keep these tips in mind when handling lye or raw soap before curing:
- Never let lye come into contact with your skin, as it can cause burns.
- Always wear safety goggles and gloves when handling lye or raw soap.
- Work with lye outdoors or in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
Mixing the Ingredients
Measure 340 g of lye solution. Use a scale to ensure accuracy, then pour the lye into a 480 ml measuring cup.
Measure 900 g of cold water. Use a scale for precision, then pour the water into a large container, such as a stainless steel pot or glass bowl (avoid aluminum).
Pour the lye into the water. Place the water container under a stove vent or near an open window to ensure proper ventilation. Slowly add the lye to the water, stirring gently with a spoon until fully dissolved.
- It’s crucial to add lye to water, not the reverse; adding water to lye can cause a rapid and dangerous reaction.
- When mixing, the lye will heat the water and release fumes. Turn your face away to avoid inhaling them.
- Set the mixture aside to cool and allow the fumes to dissipate.
Measure the oils. Use a scale to weigh 680 g of coconut oil, 1,000 g of vegetable fat, and 680 g of olive oil.
Mix the oils. Place a large stainless steel pot on the stove over low to medium heat. Add the coconut oil and vegetable fat, stirring until melted. Then, incorporate the olive oil and stir until all ingredients are fully melted and well combined. Turn off the heat.
Measure the temperature of the lye solution and oils. Use separate thermometers to check the temperatures of the lye solution and oils. Monitor until the lye solution reaches 35-36°C and the oils reach 35-36°C or slightly lower.
Pour the lye solution into the oils. Once both mixtures reach the appropriate temperatures, slowly and steadily pour the lye solution into the oils.
- Use a wooden or heat-resistant spoon for stirring; avoid metal spoons.
- An immersion blender can be used to mix the lye solution and oils.
- Continue stirring for 10-15 minutes until "trace" occurs; you’ll notice a clear trail left by the spoon, similar to pudding. If using an immersion blender, this process takes about 5 minutes.
- If the mixture doesn’t reach trace within 15 minutes, let it sit for 10-15 minutes before resuming mixing.
Add 120 ml of essential oil when the mixture begins to trace. Some fragrances and essential oils (e.g., cinnamon oil) can cause the soap to harden quickly, so be ready to pour the soap into molds immediately after mixing in the oils.
Pouring the Soap into Molds
Pour the soap into the molds. If using a shoebox or wooden mold, line it with parchment paper. Use an old plastic spatula to scrape the last bits of soap from the pot into the mold.
- Ensure you’re still wearing gloves and safety goggles, as raw soap is caustic and can cause skin burns.
- Carefully lift the mold 2.5-5 cm above the table and drop it a few times to release air bubbles trapped in the raw soap.
Cover the mold. If using a shoebox as a mold, close the lid and drape a few towels over it. For soap molds, place a piece of cardboard on top before covering with towels.
- The towels will insulate the soap and help the saponification process.
- Seal it tightly, leave it undisturbed, and keep the soap away from drafts (including air conditioning) for 24 hours.
Check the soap. The soap will go through a gel phase and a heating process over 24 hours. Uncover it and let it sit for another 12 hours before inspecting the results.
- If measured accurately and followed correctly, the soap will have a thin, ash-like white layer on top. This is harmless and can be scraped off with an old ruler or metal spatula.
- If the soap has a thick, shiny layer on top, it’s unusable because the lye and oils have separated. This happens due to inaccurate measurements, insufficient stirring, or significant temperature differences between the lye and oils during mixing.
- If the soap hasn’t hardened or has white or translucent particles inside, it may be caustic and unsafe to use. This is caused by insufficient stirring during the soap-making process.
Curing the Soap
Remove the soap from the mold. Turn the box or mold upside down to release the soap onto a towel or clean surface.
Cut the soap into bars. Firm pressure is needed to cut this type of soap. Use a sharp knife, a long metal wire with handles, thick nylon string, or fishing line.
Dry the soap. Place the soap on parchment paper on a flat surface or drying rack for 2 weeks to complete the saponification process and allow the soap to fully dry. Flip the soap after 2 weeks to dry the other side.
Cure the soap for a month. Let the soap sit and air out for at least one month. Once completely dry, it can be used like store-bought soap or wrapped as a gift for friends.
Tips
- Avoid using perfumes as fragrances, especially those containing alcohol. Alcohol can alter the chemical reaction between lye and fats, ruining the soap. Opt for natural essential oils or soap-specific fragrances. A small amount, like a teaspoon, is enough for a pleasant scent.
- Temperature is crucial when mixing oils with lye. If too high, the mixtures may separate; if too low, the soap may not form properly.
- Lye solution can be purchased at most chemical supply stores or online. Ensure the product is labeled as 100% sodium hydroxide.
- Do not attempt soap-making without permission from parents or guardians, as it may lead to trouble.
Warnings
- Soap-making tools should only be used for soap-making. Do not reuse them in the kitchen or for food preparation. Be cautious with wooden tools, as they are porous and may splinter with repeated use. Avoid using egg beaters, as caustic substances can adhere to their surfaces.
- Small white particles appearing after the soap hardens in the mold indicate caustic soap, which must be handled safely. These particles are lye. To neutralize lye-contaminated soap, use vinegar. Soak the soap in water, then break it into small pieces (wearing gloves) or use a tool to crush it. Dispose of the soap-vinegar mixture down the drain.
- Sodium hydroxide (lye) is a strong base and can be hazardous. Avoid skin and eye contact. If lye contacts the skin, rinse with water, then neutralize with vinegar and seek medical attention. If lye contacts the eyes, rinse with cool water for 15-20 minutes and seek medical help. Use an eyewash station or bottle if available. If ingested, contact poison control immediately.
- Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles when handling lye. Keep lye out of reach of children and pets.
- When mixing chemicals like lye with water, always add the chemical to the water, not the reverse, to reduce the risk of splashing.
What You'll Need
- Oils:
- 680 g olive oil (not extra virgin)
- 680 g coconut oil
- 1,000 g vegetable fat
- Lye Solution:
- 340 g lye
- 900 g purified or distilled water
- Fragrance or Essential Oils
- 120 ml of your preferred fragrance
- Equipment:
- Safety goggles
- Rubber gloves
- Apron
- Scale for weighing ingredients
- Large stainless steel or enamel pot (avoid aluminum or non-stick pots)
- Glass or wide-mouthed plastic container for water and lye
- 480 ml glass or plastic measuring cup
- Plastic or wooden spoon
- Immersion blender (optional)
- Two glass thermometers capable of measuring 27-38°C (candy thermometers work)
- Plastic molds for cold process soap, shoebox, or wooden mold
- Parchment paper
- Plenty of paper towels
- Running water and vinegar (in case of lye exposure).
