When roses have passed their peak bloom or fully blossomed and begin to wilt, it's necessary to remove them. This helps maintain the rose plant's beauty and encourages more blooms. By cutting away the faded roses, the rose bush will focus on forming new buds and blooming fresh flowers instead of diverting energy to dying blooms or producing fruit. Throughout the blooming season or summer, you should regularly prune wilted flowers until the bush prepares to endure winter.
Steps
Preparing to Prune Wilting Roses

Gather the necessary tools for pruning. You will need sharp pruning shears, gardening gloves, and a large bucket to collect plant debris.
- Pruning shears should be sharp and precise, yet small enough to handle comfortably and maneuver accurately.
- Invest in gloves that cover not only your hands but also your forearms. Many rose bushes are tall and dense, requiring you to reach into the plant to prune. Protecting your arms from thorns is essential.

Learn to identify wilted roses and other problematic blooms that need pruning. Pruning spent flowers not only encourages the plant to bloom more but also keeps the bush healthy, free from fungal infections and pests. Observe the rose bush and note the following:
- Wilted roses. When roses have fully bloomed, they begin to wilt or droop. The petals become very loose and can easily fall off with a gentle breeze. These stems need to be removed.
- Overcrowded blooms. Some roses grow tangled or intertwined. These roses are essentially competing for space, leading to stunted growth and less attractive blooms. Removing these roses can redirect their growth in the next blooming season.
- Inward-growing stems. Always ensure the base of the rose bush receives ample sunlight. Stems growing inward block sunlight and water from reaching the center of the bush, potentially fostering bacteria and fungi. Essentially, all stems should grow outward, allowing airflow and light into the center.
Pruning the Rose Stems

Identify a set of 5 leaves growing in the right direction. Examine the rose stem, and you’ll notice sets of 3 or 5 leaves. The correct technique is to cut just above a set of 5 or more leaves. The 5-leaf set (sometimes called true leaves) should face the direction you want the new shoot to grow. For example, if you want the shoot to grow outward, cut just above a 5-leaf set that also faces outward.
- Cutting at a 3-leaf set may produce non-flowering shoots called 'blind shoots,' which won’t bloom in the current season but might flower in the next.
- You don’t have to cut at the first 5-leaf set you see. Sometimes a set grows in the wrong direction, requiring a deeper cut.

Pay attention to the bud eye. You may notice a dark spot just above the junction of a leaf set and the stem. This spot is called the bud eye and is where new shoots and flowers will emerge. Cut just above the bud eye.
- If you have many rose bushes to prune or deadhead, you may not have time to locate every bud eye. Fortunately, bud eyes grow very close to their leaf sets. Simply remember to cut about 0.6 cm above the 5-leaf set.

Cut at a 45-degree angle. Never make a straight cut. A 45-degree angled cut helps water from hoses or rain flow away from the bud, preventing fungi or bacteria from growing on it.
- There’s debate about whether a 45-degree angle is necessary when pruning roses. Some argue that the angle doesn’t affect the plant’s recovery or blooming potential.
- Consider applying a bit of white glue to the freshly cut bud. This can help reduce the risk of disease spreading to the plant’s base.
Tips
- If you want to reduce the overall size of the rose plant, cut shorter. This is especially necessary for fast-growing and dense varieties like David Austin roses. However, the more you prune, the longer it takes for flower buds to form.
- If you don’t deadhead spent flowers, the wilted roses will develop into seed pods. By pruning spent blooms, you’ll have a better chance of enjoying a vibrant blooming season.
- Dispose of soft plant cuttings in the compost bin if desired. However, avoid adding old or woody stems to the compost, as they take longer to decompose compared to young and soft branches.