How to Raise Crickets

Purchase several large containers or bins. You'll need to house your crickets in containers or bins. The easiest approach is to use two containers—one for breeding adult crickets and the other for growing crickets. Determine the number of crickets you plan to raise and buy one (or more) appropriately sized containers.

• Ensure the container is spacious enough for the entire cricket colony. A common mistake among cricket breeders is using containers that are too small. Overcrowding can lead to cannibalism, reducing your cricket supply, which is something you definitely want to avoid. Always choose a container with ample space!
• Opt for clear plastic storage bins with secure lids to keep the crickets contained. Tall-sided plastic bins are ideal. A 53-liter bin can house a colony of over 500 crickets, along with enough cardboard or egg cartons for climbing. The smooth surfaces of plastic bins also help minimize escapes.

Ensure proper ventilation in the container. Cut one or two holes, approximately 15 cm in diameter, into the lid to allow air circulation. Cover the holes with mosquito netting to prevent the crickets from escaping, as they can chew through plastic mesh. Use a hot glue gun to securely attach the netting. For better temperature control, experiment with different vent hole configurations.

Line the bottom of the container with a layer of vermiculite. Spread a layer of vermiculite at the bottom of the plastic container. This provides a surface for the crickets to crawl on and helps keep the container dry, preventing bacteria growth and reducing odors. For large colonies, replace the vermiculite every 1-6 months, so it’s a good idea to buy extra.

Place a small plastic container filled with loose, moist topsoil inside the cricket enclosure. Female crickets need this soil to lay their eggs. The container should be slightly higher than the vermiculite layer for easy access. Ensure the topsoil is free from fertilizers and pesticides.

• You can place a mesh screen over the soil to prevent crickets from digging or eating the eggs. Female crickets can still lay eggs through the mesh using their ovipositor.

Purchase 50 or more crickets. Ensure you have enough crickets to feed your pets, plus an additional 30-50 crickets for breeding. It’s important to have both male and female crickets, but a higher number of females is ideal.

• Female crickets have three long spines at the end of their abdomen, with the central spine (ovipositor) used for laying eggs in the soil. Their wings are fully developed.
• Male crickets have only two spines at the end of their abdomen. Their shorter wings, not fully developed, allow them to produce the familiar chirping sound heard at night.

Set up the cricket habitat and feed them. Place all the crickets into the prepared container. Add a shallow dish of commercial cricket food or an alternative (high-quality dry cat food works well), keeping it slightly away from the soil container.

• You can supplement their diet with fruits, sliced potatoes, greens, and other vegetables. Remember to remove uneaten food before it molds or rots.
• Other suitable foods include freshwater fish pellets, rabbit food (alfalfa pellets), or any high-protein feed.
• Try mixing different foods to keep the crickets engaged. Healthy crickets mean healthier pets. Supplement dry food with vegetable scraps, fruits, and greens like lettuce to ensure your crickets become a nutritious snack for your pets.

Ensure a steady water supply for the crickets. Crickets need constant access to water to survive and thrive. You’ll notice them gathering when you mist the container. Here are some creative ways cricket breeders provide water:

• Use a reptile water dish with an inverted water bottle and place a sponge inside to prevent spills and flooding.
• Cut a toilet paper roll lengthwise and flatten it into a rectangle. Wrap absorbent paper, like tissue, around the cardboard and stand it upright in a corner to create a "fort."
• A dish of water gel (sold as a soil substitute, such as "polyacrylamide") or unflavored jelly also works as an excellent water source.

Provide warmth for the crickets. To encourage breeding and egg incubation, keep the crickets warm. Use methods like reptile heating lamps, heating pads, or light bulbs. A room heater can also provide the necessary warmth for the crickets and their eggs.

• During mating season, male crickets chirp only when temperatures are between 13-38°C. Crickets thrive best at 27-32°C.

Allow time for breeding. With proper care, including adequate food, water, and warmth, the crickets will multiply. Wait about two weeks for mating and egg-laying. Crickets will burrow about 2.5 cm below the soil surface to lay eggs. After two weeks, the soil will be filled with slender, rice grain-sized eggs. Transfer these soil containers to an incubation box.

• While waiting, ensure the soil remains moist. Dry eggs will spoil and become useless. Use a spray bottle to mist the soil occasionally, preventing it from drying out due to heat.

Incubate the eggs. Cricket eggs require consistent warmth to hatch. Place the egg container inside a larger, sealed container and keep it at a temperature of 29-32°C. After about two weeks (longer if temperatures are lower), tiny sand-sized baby crickets will hatch by the hundreds each day.

Gather the baby crickets and transfer them to a separate rearing container. Provide ample food and water to ensure the pinhead-sized crickets grow until they’re ready to return to the main enclosure—this usually takes an additional 7-10 days.

• Keep the rearing container moist to ensure the crickets stay hydrated.
• Consider placing the rearing container on a heating pad set to 27-32°C.

Repeat the breeding process. Continue following the steps above with new batches to produce hundreds or even thousands of crickets, ensuring a steady supply for your pets—or even your friends’ pets. Soon, you’ll become an experienced cricket breeder! If crickets die, pay close attention to the following factors:

• Overcrowding. Crickets need ample space to live and breed. If the enclosure becomes too crowded, they may resort to cannibalism to reduce competition.
• Insufficient or excessive water. Crickets may need more water than you think—regular misting and refilling water dishes every two days is crucial. However, avoid drowning them. Frequent misting and proper hydration are enough to maintain humidity.
• Inadequate warmth. Crickets thrive and reproduce best in warm environments. Aim to maintain an optimal temperature of 27-32°C in the enclosure.

• Remove dead crickets—they can be eaten by others, spreading bacteria and harming the colony.
• If you run out of food or water, a slice of potato can serve as a temporary substitute for both.
• Applying a strip of tape inside the enclosure can prevent escapes, as crickets can’t climb the slippery surface.
• Replace the sponge in the water dish every two weeks or when dirty to prevent bacterial growth.
• Learn more about cricket diets and care. This will improve your breeding success and ensure healthier crickets.
• Use foam weatherstripping to seal the lid of the enclosure, preventing escapes.
• Every six months, start a new breeding cycle with fresh crickets to avoid inbreeding issues. This is also a good time to replace the vermiculite layer.
• Crickets breathe through their skin, so they need adequate space to survive.
• Cricket eggs hatch in 7-13 days, with an optimal temperature of around 29°C.
• Feed crickets oranges for a vitamin C boost.
• To remove a handful of crickets, use upright toilet paper rolls placed against the enclosure walls, then shake them into your pet’s habitat or another desired location.
• If breeding crickets for calcium-dependent pets (like geckos), feed them calcium-rich foods like spinach or cheese. These foods also address potential vitamin deficiencies and benefit your pets indirectly.

• Be aware of pests that can harm crickets, such as mold, mites, flies, and bacteria. Take preventive measures and eliminate pests to keep your crickets healthy.
• Avoid excessive humidity. Provide water dishes for crickets but aim to keep humidity levels low to reduce mortality, mold, mites, and flies.
• Male crickets can be noisy with their chirping. Consider placing them in a location where the sound won’t disturb you.
• 50 breeding crickets can produce over 2000 offspring in one breeding cycle. You might end up with more crickets than expected and need a plan for managing them.
• If you have cats, this might not be an issue. Cats enjoy hunting and/or eating crickets! It’s generally safe for cats to eat crickets, unless they consume too many and experience digestive issues.
• Only use pesticide-free and fertilizer-free soil to ensure the crickets and eggs aren’t poisoned.
• Newly hatched crickets are as small as grains of sand. Be careful to prevent them from escaping the container. (They can’t climb smooth surfaces like glass or clear plastic).
• Some crickets will inevitably escape. If you don’t want them roaming freely, consider setting up cricket traps.