How to re-train your cat to use the litter box

Is your cat refusing to use the litter box? Understanding the root cause behind this behavior is key to fixing it. Common reasons include stress from changes in the home or health issues, especially in older cats, which could be why your cat suddenly stops using the litter box.

Move the litter box to an appropriate location. Cats may stop using the litter box after a distressing event, such as loud noises or being disturbed by another animal. They may also dislike the new spot if you moved the box, especially after a move. Place the litter box in a quiet area with little foot traffic, where the cat can see people coming. Ideally, select a room with at least two exits so the cat doesn't feel trapped.

• Keep the litter box away from food and water bowls, as cats prefer not to eat and eliminate in the same area.
• Signs that your cat is uncomfortable with the litter box include rushing in and out or eliminating near it. If you notice this, try moving the box to a different room.
• Make sure to place at least one litter box on every floor if you have a multi-story home.

Play with your cat near the litter box. Try engaging your cat in play close to the location of the litter box. Leave toys (not food) in the room for the cat to enjoy, helping it associate the litter box with positive experiences.

• You can carry your cat near the litter box to allow it to explore, but don't place your cat inside the box or reward it for using it. These tactics can backfire, as they might make the cat uncomfortable or fearful. Unlike dogs, cats tend to choose their litter box, especially if they’ve used it before.

Keep the litter box clean. If your cat is sitting on the edge of the box or eliminating just outside it, it may find the box too dirty. Scoop clumps and add fresh litter at least once a day, ideally twice. Clean the box weekly using baking soda or unscented soap.

• If you're using non-clumping litter, change the entire box every two days to prevent odors from accumulating, which might deter your cat from using it.
• Do not clean the box with scented products. Avoid disinfectants unless they are specifically formulated for cleaning cat litter boxes, as many contain chemicals harmful to cats.

Gradually switch to a new type of litter. When introducing a new litter, mix a little of the new litter with the old, and slowly increase the proportion of the new type each time you change it. Cats usually adapt well to unscented litter with a texture similar to their old one.

• If your old litter is unavailable, try buying two or three new types and place each one in a separate box. Let your cat choose the one it prefers.
• Experiment with the depth of the litter, especially if the new type has a different texture than what your cat is used to. Many cats prefer a shallow layer, less than 5 cm. Long-haired cats often like a very thin layer, so they can dig to the bottom.

Fix issues with a new litter box. If your cat isn't adjusting well to a new litter box, try these adjustments to make it more appealing:

• Some cats prefer covered boxes, while others like open ones. You can try adding or removing the cover of the box.
• Remove the plastic liner from the box. Cats may dislike it if their claws get caught in the lining.
• Most cats adjust well to self-cleaning litter boxes, but not all of them. Some cats are anxious and may fear the noise of the motor, causing them to avoid the box. If in doubt, stick with a regular litter box.
• If the new box is smaller than the old one, consider replacing it with a larger one. A large box with low sides is ideal; some people use plastic storage containers as litter boxes.

Clean cat waste with an enzyme cleaner. If your cat is avoiding the litter box, use an enzyme cleaner specifically designed for cat urine (or mix enzyme detergent powder with water at a 10% concentration). Rinse with cold water. This method helps neutralize the urine odor, encouraging the cat to return to the spot.

• For best results, spray the cleaner on the area after it dries. Wipe it down and allow it to air dry.

Make the area unappealing to your cat. If your cat starts to frequently relieve itself in certain areas, block access to those spots or find temporary ways to deter the behavior until it learns better habits:

• If your cat prefers to eliminate in dark, hidden areas, try installing a bright light, ideally a motion-activated one.
• Cover the carpet or specific areas with aluminum foil or double-sided tape to make them uncomfortable to stand on.
• If your cat urinates on curtains, raise them out of its reach until it resumes using the litter box.
• Use plastic sheets or shower curtains to cover items that your cat might target.
• Leave a small amount of water in the bathtub or sink when not in use.

Place litter boxes in problem areas. Another solution is to cater to your cat's preferences by adding litter boxes in areas where it tends to eliminate. While it’s not ideal to have a litter box on the living room rug, this approach may be worth considering if your cat repeatedly soils far corners of the house.

• Another option is to move your cat's food bowl to the same area. Most cats don’t like to eat and eliminate in the same spot.

Leverage your cat’s preferences. If the previous adjustments don’t work, you may need to try a slower transition approach. For example, if your cat likes to urinate on the carpet, place a similar piece of carpet in the litter box. If your cat accepts this, the next day, sprinkle a little litter on top of the carpet. Gradually add more litter and replace the carpet when it becomes too dirty until your cat fully switches to the litter box.

• You may need to confine your cat to areas without carpet for a while to make this method effective, or temporarily roll up the carpets. However, confining your cat can backfire if it becomes stressed or bored.
• Similarly, if your cat has access to both indoor and outdoor spaces, consider adding garden dirt or sand to the litter box (without fertilizer). Gradually transition from the dirt/sand to cat litter by adding small amounts of litter over time.

Spay or neuter your cat. While not a requirement for litter box training, spaying or neutering your cat can reduce the likelihood of it urinating outside the box. Unneutered male cats often spray urine when they are stressed, in conflict with other male cats, or showing off to female cats.

• The earlier the procedure is done, the more effective it is in curbing this behavior. If left too long, this habit may persist even after surgery.

Reducing stress for your cat. Just like humans, cats can experience stress due to environmental changes or changes in their routine. Your cat may stop using the litter box after someone leaves the house, or when a new person or animal moves in. Some cats even react negatively when the house is redecorated. Here are some helpful tips:

• Provide quiet areas where your cat can be alone, including secluded spots or elevated spaces.
• If your cat is allowed outdoors, let it choose the places it prefers.
• Allow your cat to initiate interactions, remain calm, and consistent in your responses. Some cats become stressed due to insufficient playtime, while others dislike being petted or picked up at will.
• If these behaviors persist, consider consulting a veterinarian or animal behaviorist for advice.

Dealing with cats urinating on vertical surfaces. If your cat is leaning against a vertical surface, flicking its tail, and spraying urine, it is marking its territory. If you don’t catch it in the act, look for small, circular urine stains on surfaces higher than your cat’s hindquarters and urine streaks running down the walls or floors. Any cat can mark its territory, but this behavior is most common in unneutered male cats. Here’s how to deal with it:

• Marking territory is often a response to stress or the presence of other cats. Follow the advice above to handle this issue.
• Spraying may also be a response to a new neighbor’s cat, especially if it’s focusing on doorways, windows, or vents. Try keeping your cat indoors, or draw the curtains to block your cat’s view of the other cat.
• Approximately 30% of cats that spray urine and are examined by a veterinarian have underlying health issues. It’s advisable to take your cat for a check-up, especially if you can’t find a solution that works.

Switching to a larger litter box as your kitten grows. If you have been raising your kitten from a young age, you will need to upgrade to a larger litter box as it grows. The box should be spacious enough for your cat to move around comfortably and still find a clean spot when you haven't had a chance to clean it yet.

• Cats don’t like changes, so it may take some time for them to adjust to the new box. Follow the instructions above if the issue persists.

Trimming long-haired cats' fur. Some long-haired cats may get their fur near the tail dirty when using the litter box. This can cause discomfort or pain, making the cat associate the litter box with negative experiences. If you notice this happening, trim the tangled fur in that area of your cat’s body.

Minimizing damage when you're away from home. Some cats react poorly when their owners leave the house. They may try to urinate on places that still carry their owner’s scent, such as the bed. You should instruct your pet sitter to keep bedroom doors closed and provide plenty of litter boxes so the cat can find its own litter box without needing assistance.

• If possible, hire a pet sitter your cat is familiar with, or at least introduce them before you leave.

Improve behavior in multi-pet households. Urine marking is a common reaction when cats are in conflict with other animals, like dogs or other cats, even if they were previously getting along. For the best results, ensure each pet has its own space to prevent competition:

• Provide each pet with its own litter box, plus one extra as a backup. Place each box in a separate location with at least two exits if possible.
• Give each pet their own bed and food bowl, keeping them apart from each other and away from the litter boxes.
• Offer plenty of private, high, and secluded areas for each cat.

Separate pets if negative behavior persists. If your cat refuses to use the litter box or continues to clash with other pets, try separating them further. This method is particularly useful when introducing a new cat into your home:

• Place each cat in separate rooms and close the door so they can smell each other but not see each other. Help them get used to each other’s scent by feeding them on opposite sides of the door or swapping their rooms daily.
• After a few days, slightly open the door. If they show no signs of aggression, allow them to meet face-to-face.
• For aggressive pets, you may need to use leashes, keeping them at a safe distance in the same room for short periods to play or eat before gradually bringing them closer together.
• Once the cats settle, try rubbing a little tuna water on their heads. This encourages them to relax and possibly groom each other.

Assess whether your cat has difficulty urinating. If your cat seems strained while urinating or is unable to urinate at all, you should take them to the vet immediately. Male cats, in particular, can develop urinary tract problems when their urethra (the tube connecting the bladder to the penis) becomes narrow or blocked. Often, a small amount of urine will pass before a complete blockage occurs, preventing the cat from urinating. This is a life-threatening emergency and requires immediate attention. Blockages can also occur in the intestines.

• Cats suffering from urinary tract infections or blockages often struggle to urinate, lick their genital area, or vocalize to their owner.

Assess whether your cat is having issues with defecation. Constipation can become chronic, requiring a special diet and laxatives for your cat. Diarrhea is also common, including chronic diarrhea related to inflammatory bowel disease. Both conditions cause discomfort and may lead your cat to avoid the litter box or be unable to reach it in time to avoid accidents.

• In some cases, cats with inflammatory bowel disease may show symptoms sporadically. Loss of appetite, lethargy, vomiting, or an accumulation of hairballs in the stomach can be signs of gastrointestinal distress.

Make it easier for your cat to access the litter box. If your cat is older or injured, it might not be able to enter the litter box as easily as before. Does your cat limp, need assistance to jump onto furniture, or seem to have difficulty with its back or tail? If so, it's important to take your cat to the vet immediately! To make things easier, consider using a litter box with low sides or one with a cut-out entrance. You may also want to opt for a larger box to give your cat ample space to turn around comfortably.

• If your cat is overweight, the box may no longer fit. Look for a larger litter box and consider putting your cat on a diet. Consult with your vet for a safe weight loss plan for your cat.

Consult with your vet to rule out other health issues. If your cat is urinating outside the litter box, it could be due to health issues such as urinary tract infections, diabetes, chronic kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, bladder inflammation (with or without crystals), or gastrointestinal issues. If you suspect any of these, take your cat to the vet for an examination.

• Observe your cat carefully to answer the vet’s questions, which may include: Does your cat urinate near the box or far away? Is the urine volume normal? Does the cat seem to struggle when trying to urinate? Does the cat vocalize when urinating? Has there been increased thirst? Is the urine clear, normal in color, or darker? How often does your cat urinate?
• Even without health problems, the vet might prescribe anti-anxiety medication for your cat to prevent territorial marking. However, this solution comes with risks, so it’s important to discuss the pros and cons of this treatment with your vet.