How to Remove Moss from Your Lawn

Moss is a small plant that creates a habitat for various invertebrates. Most types of moss are harmless, native plants that are part of the natural food web. They cover bare ground and help prevent soil erosion. While moss does not kill grass, it can take over your lawn if the grass is already dying. To remove moss, you will need to use both physical and possibly chemical methods. In recent years, many homeowners and gardeners have chosen to let moss grow for its aesthetic value and to reduce the use of chemicals around the home. A perfect lawn can even include moss, and that’s not a problem! However, if you can’t stand the sight of moss growing on your lawn, keep reading.

Remove loose moss by aerating the soil. Aerating the soil, also known as lawn dethatching, involves digging into the lawn to eliminate patches of loose moss and compacted organic matter.

• For small lawns, you can do this by hand. Simply rake vigorously to remove the moss. A spring-tine rake works well for this purpose.
• For larger lawns, consider using a lawn dethatcher attachment on a lawn mower. Adjust the height so that the tines of the dethatcher reach the soil, but not so low that they disturb the grass roots. You can dethatch the entire lawn and dispose of the moss you remove.
• If you have a large lawn, you might also want to rent a power dethatcher. This machine uses rotating tines to rake the grass. You can rent one from garden centers.
• Aerating the soil is particularly important if you’ve used moss-killing chemicals or herbicides to weaken or kill the moss. You should wait for the recommended amount of time stated on the product label before aerating the lawn.

Try using glyphosate herbicide. Glyphosate is one of the most commonly used herbicides, but it may produce unexpected results when used to eliminate moss.

• This chemical is absorbed by the leaves and travels down to the roots.
• The exact conditions under which glyphosate works effectively against moss are still unclear. However, it should only be used when there are no other plants that could be affected.
• As with any herbicide, carefully follow the instructions on the label.

Use iron sulfate or another sulfate-based herbicide. This type of herbicide is less common but tends to be more effective at killing moss. Iron sulfate is the most recommended, though ammonium sulfate and copper sulfate can also be effective.

• Iron weakens moss, causing it to die, or it can make manual moss removal easier.
• Spray 20 liters of the mixture over 300 m². Mix 90 ml of iron sulfate with 20 liters of water.
• If using copper sulfate, mix 60-150 ml with 16 liters of water and spray over 300 m².
• Always follow the directions on the label.

Consider using moss-killing soap. Cryptocidal soap products kill moss upon contact. This chemical will bleach the moss, turning it yellowish-white, and should be used sparingly.

• This soap does not harm sidewalks or other structures.
• For the best results, apply the product on dry days when the moss is weakest.
• Follow the usage instructions on the product label. Proper nitrogen fertilization, applied at the right time, can also help increase peat moss density. Fall and spring are ideal for fertilization.

Plant perennial and shade-loving plants. Grass struggles to grow in shaded areas, but moss thrives in them. If you can't control the amount of shade on your lawn, consider planting flowers and other plants that do well in the shade to prevent moss from growing.

• Shade-loving plants include creeping Jenny, coral bells, hostas, snow roses, ferns, hydrangeas, pulmonaria, and tiarella. Some other flowers and shrubs also grow well in shade. Next time you're at a garden center or nursery, look for shade-loving varieties.

Allow sunlight to reach the lawn. Moss thrives in shaded areas, but most types of grass do not. To keep your lawn healthy, consider clearing any obstructions that block sunlight from reaching the grass.

• Store firewood, bricks, or other items in your shed or garage to avoid blocking sunlight on the lawn.
• When building a new shed, think about its placement so that its shadow doesn't cover your grass.
• Trim back large trees and shrubs to let sunlight through.

Avoid over-watering the grass. Moss grows best in moist conditions. If your lawn is struggling and susceptible to moss invasion, over-watering will only encourage it to grow faster.

• Avoid watering at night in early fall or spring, which are peak times for moss growth.
• If your lawn tends to stay soggy, improve drainage by adjusting the slope of the grass, aerating the soil, or creating underground drainage channels.

Water sufficiently to keep the lawn healthy. While excessive moisture can promote moss growth, too little moisture can weaken grass and make it more susceptible to moss invasion.

• When the lawn is too dry, the grass will turn yellow, weaken, and fail to respond well to rain or moisture, allowing moss to grow faster, and grass to continue dying even with rainfall.

Prevent damage to the lawn. Everyone loves a beautiful lawn, but harsh treatment can damage it. As grass begins to die, moss will take over more easily.

• The lawn will suffer if you play sports, ride bikes, or allow pets to dig in the grass.
• Additionally, larvae from crane flies can harm the grass. You should find ways to eliminate or deter crane flies if they are common in your area.
• Other insects, such as longbill weevils, nocturnal moth larvae, and ants, can also cause issues. If you're in the U.S., you can refer to the USDA's website for reports on pest risks and control in your area.

Aerate the soil. Over time, the soil in your lawn may become compacted, preventing air, water, and fertilizer from reaching the grass roots, leading to grass death and moss growth. You can control and prevent this issue by aerating the soil, especially when it is dry.

• You can borrow, rent, or purchase a lawn aerator. This machine will poke holes in the lawn and remove soil cores that are no larger than 2.5 cm in diameter.
• Once the soil cores are removed, the gaps left behind will allow the soil to become looser.
• Try to aerate the lawn at least twice a year, once in early planting season and again at the end of the season.

Regularly rake the lawn. Soil cultivation disrupts the lawn more deeply than aeration. If you are already aerating regularly, you may not need to rake much. However, if moss is becoming a problem, additional raking is recommended.

• For the best results, you should rake the lawn once every two years in the spring.
• The rake blades will dig into the lawn, pulling up most of the plants growing on the surface, rather than those deeper in the soil. Since moss grows on the surface, raking can prevent its spread.

Seed areas with sparse grass. If you have patches with thin grass, consider sowing seeds to prevent moss from taking over and improve the overall quality of the lawn.

• Consider planting grass varieties that thrive in shade, such as ryegrass, fescue, roughstalk bluegrass, and bentgrass. You can also look for grass seed mixes labeled "sun-shade" (for both sunny and shaded areas).
• Spread a layer of loose soil or sand, about 0.6 cm thick, over the newly sown grass seeds, and keep the area moist until the grass establishes roots.

Fertilize the lawn. Moss can infiltrate the lawn when the soil is poor. Poor soil also means that grass does not receive the necessary nutrients to thrive. Regular fertilization is the best way to improve this condition.

• You can take a soil sample from areas where moss grows and have it analyzed by a professional lawn care service. However, moss growing in dry, sunny spots typically indicates low fertility in the soil.
• Use a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content and moderate levels of potassium and iron.
• Fertilizing will be most effective when done four times a year: spring, late spring, mid-summer, and early fall. Stick to a seasonal fertilization schedule for the best results.

Apply agricultural lime. Lime helps control soil acidity. Moss tends to grow when soil acidity prevents nutrients from being available to the grass, creating an opportunity for moss to take over.

• Calcium-based lime is the most effective option.
• Check the soil pH. A neutral pH around 6.5-7 is ideal for lawns. A pH below 6 indicates acidic soil, while a pH above 7 is alkaline.
• Only use lime to treat acidic soils, and avoid applying it to alkaline soils.
• Apply lime to the lawn twice during each growing season if soil tests indicate acidity. Lime should be applied after aerating and cultivating the soil, leaving the soil cores on the surface. Over time, the soil cores will break down, helping retain moisture and nutrients in the soil.

• Soil tiller
• Lawn aerator
• Weed control or moss-killing soap
• Shade-tolerant plants
• Fertilizer
• Grass seed suitable for shaded areas
• Agricultural lime
• Soil pH testing kit