How to Remove Tree Roots

Cut small tree roots. While it can be quite strenuous, this is a direct approach that doesn’t pose risks to surrounding trees. First, dig around and beneath the tree roots, then cut the roots using a saw or pruning shears. If too many roots are cut, the tree will weaken and may die after a few years. To avoid this outcome, follow these guidelines:

• Measure the tree's diameter and multiply by 8. This is the minimum distance from the trunk where you can cut the roots with minimal risk of serious damage to the tree.
• Only cut roots on one side, especially if you are near the minimum distance.

Dig a trench to block tree roots. Cutting tree roots once is only a temporary solution. To maintain the results, you may need to dig a trench and cut the roots every year or two for spreading root systems. You can avoid doing this regularly by digging a deep trench (preferably through the topsoil layer), then placing one of the following barriers before covering the trench again:

• Galvanized metal sheets. Fold the top edge of the sheet to prevent sharp edges from being hazardous.
• Two layers of HDPE plastic sheets,
  The overlapping parts of the barrier should be at least 30 cm wide to prevent roots from slipping through.
  which you can sometimes get from feed stores.
• For best results, purchase commercially available root barriers that are treated with herbicides. The common compound trifluralin is a safe option that is less likely to harm surrounding plants.

Kill sucker roots with herbicides. Some tree species respond to root cutting or other damage by sprouting sucker roots from the existing root system. To selectively eliminate these roots, you need to sever the roots so the herbicide doesn’t spread to the main tree. Carefully spray herbicide containing glyphosate or triclopyr amine directly onto the sucker roots, being careful not to touch nearby trees. Many plants with sucker roots grow vigorously. If you don’t want to kill the entire tree, you’ll need to repeat this process or occasionally dig out the sucker roots manually.

• If you’ve already cut down the tree but sucker roots are still sprouting in your yard, your only option may be to use broadleaf herbicide. This will kill all plants in the affected area. You’ll need to repeat this method every time new sucker roots appear until the tree’s roots deplete their nutrients.

Replace damaged sidewalks with gravel or a cover layer. It can be very difficult to remove large surface roots without killing the tree. If you want to avoid tree death, you can cover the surface above the roots to prevent the tree from growing through. This does not remove the roots, so it won’t protect your garden or drainage pipes from root invasion.

• Carefully dismantle the damaged concrete sections, making sure not to harm the roots.
• Place geotextile fabric over the area with the tree roots. Leave a 15 cm gap around smaller trees, or 30 cm around larger trees.
• Spread a 7.5–10 cm layer of gravel (or 15–20 cm of coarse mulch) on top. Mulch is less effective and can wash away in heavy rain.
• Use stones to edge the material to prevent shifting.

Pour copper sulfate or rock salt down the toilet. This is the easiest method, but it carries the risk of killing all nearby plants and trees. Pour one of these chemicals into the toilet (never pour it into sinks or bathtubs) in doses of around 250 g or less until you reach 1 kg. Avoid allowing water to flow into the pipe for 8-12 hours to allow the salt to fully affect the roots. Follow the safety instructions on the packaging.

Treat drainpipes with foaming herbicide. Foaming herbicides expand to fill the pipe and break down slowly, making them the best option for eradicating tree roots in drain systems. Contact herbicides will kill the roots quickly, while systemic herbicides may take weeks to take effect but will ultimately kill the entire tree. The foam's consistency should match the pipe sizes, so be sure to check the product label before purchasing.

• Some herbicides are toxic to fish and other wildlife. The product label often indicates the environmental impact and provides tips for minimizing this effect.
• For optimal results, consider hiring a professional plumber when using sodium metam. This corrosive chemical requires trained individuals and appropriate safety measures.

Hire a professional plumber. If tree roots completely block the drainpipe, the chemical treatment flow will also be obstructed. You should hire a plumber instead of using manual drain-clearing tools. This also prevents environmental impacts from herbicides.

Repair the drainpipe. Unless you're prepared to repeat the process regularly, you need to repair the recently cleared drainpipes to prevent tree roots from growing back. You will reduce digging and disruption if you line the inside of the pipe, but typically, replacing the entire pipe is more cost-effective.

• You may also need to remove or relocate any large trees growing near the drainpipe, as their roots will continue to invade the pipe.

Research the tree you plan to remove. Some trees can develop sucker roots and grow new stems far from the original trunk. Removing the tree’s trunk won’t eliminate the roots and may even stimulate new shoots. Avoid this method for the following species (this list is not exhaustive):

• Elms, cherries, plums, and lilacs may regrow from their roots after the trunk is damaged. You should use herbicides instead of this approach.
• Deciduous oaks, birches, and boxthorn can form "clusters" of trunks during normal growth. The roots of these trees are difficult to control, even with herbicides. Your local agricultural extension office may recommend a suitable herbicide for the tree species you're trying to remove.

Cut the tree and leave the stump. If you must cut the tree, leave a stump about 90-120 cm high above the ground. This will give you enough tree trunk to grip when removing the stump from the ground.

Dig around the tree stump. Use a shovel, pickaxe, or digger to dig around the stump. Cut the largest roots with an axe or saw once they are exposed. Dig within a radius of approximately 1.2 meters around the stump or enough to sever the main roots.

• Before using a chainsaw on the tree roots, place a board underneath to protect the saw from hitting dirt and rocks.
• After digging for a while, use a hose or pressure washer to spray water in the dug area to reveal more roots.

Attach a winch to the stump. Most tree stumps are so firmly anchored in the ground that you cannot pry them out by hand, especially after felling the tree. Attach a hand winch to the stump or tie it to a truck for leverage.

Slowly pull the winch. Even a hand winch can cause the stump to fly out with incredible force once it is dislodged from the earth. Slowly pull the winch in small increments to avoid this risk. If using a truck, move back and forth alternately. The goal is to gradually loosen the stump and have it fall gently to the ground.

Grind the stump if necessary. Some large stumps won't budge even with a winch. For these stumps, you will need to rent a stump grinder (or hire a stump grinding service). These machines can be dangerous to use, so wear protective goggles and ask the rental service for proper instructions. Here's the basic process:

• Clear away rocks and debris near the stump that could damage the grinder.
• Place the grinder's blade about 10 cm above the top of the stump.
• Start the machine and slowly lower the blade into the stump about 7.5 cm deep.
• Move the blade slowly from side to side to cut into the stump at about 10 cm depth. Repeat this motion for the next section of the stump until it's even with the first part.
• Continue until the entire stump is ground down at least 20-25 cm below the surface or deeper if you plan to plant a new tree.

Fill the hole with soil. Remove any remaining tree roots from the hole and fill it with soil. Scatter grass seeds over the surface, water it, and you'll have an area free of trees that blends seamlessly with the rest of the garden. The tree roots will stop growing and will eventually decompose.

Be aware of the risks. The roots of some trees of the same species can intertwine when they meet. This means that an herbicide used on one oak tree might spread through the roots to other nearby oak trees and kill them. This phenomenon is more likely with tree species that form "clumps", such as aspen and black locust trees.

Choose an herbicide. Herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr amine are effective in killing trees and are available at garden stores. Certain tree species may respond better to one herbicide than another. For example, glyphosate may be more effective in controlling Russian olive trees, while triclopyr is a better choice for eucalyptus, maple, oak, and willow trees.

• Triclopyr amine is effective at a concentration of 8.8%. For glyphosate, look for a solution with around 40% concentration, then dilute it with an equal amount of water. If you can't find this, use the undiluted product with a minimum concentration of 20%.
• Herbicides containing 2,4-D, dicamba, or picloram can be quite dangerous, as they can spread and kill surrounding vegetation. This won't happen with glyphosate or triclopyr when used carefully.

Wear protective clothing. Follow the instructions on the herbicide label to avoid exposure to chemicals. At a minimum, wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, closed-toe shoes, latex or nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. Choose clothing you don't mind getting damaged.

• There's no need to wear a mask, as you won't be spraying the herbicide into the air.

Apply herbicide to the tree stump. This method prevents the majority or all of the tree's roots from spreading out and growing new suckers after the tree has been felled. A fresh cut is required, but if the tree was recently cut within the past few weeks, you can create a new cut:

• Make a flat cut at the base of the stump, keeping it as level as possible to prevent the herbicide from dripping into the soil. Clear away any sawdust.
• Use an old paintbrush to apply herbicide to the inner bark. This area contains living tissue that can transfer the herbicide down to the roots.
• Dispose of the brush and herbicide container safely.

Use herbicide to kill the tree. This is the simplest alternative to felling the tree, though it may not be safe if branches fall onto a pathway. Additionally, this method might not be effective during spring for trees that have high sap content, as the herbicide is often pushed out. If you are not dealing with these two situations, you can use the herbicide with the "cut and inject" method:

• Make a 45-degree angle cut into the tree trunk, creating a sharp edge.
• Use a small spray bottle to inject herbicide into the angled cut. Try to prevent the herbicide from spilling over the edges.
• Read the instructions on the herbicide bottle to determine how many cuts to make and how much herbicide to apply to each one (usually 1 ml or less).
• For some particularly resilient trees, you might need to strip the bark around the trunk and apply herbicide to the exposed wood.

Remove dead branches. After a few days or weeks, the tree's branches will start to decay and fall off. Collect and dispose of the dead branches that have fallen off the tree.

• For some trees or root systems, you might need to apply multiple layers of herbicide for it to soak into the wood. If the tree is still alive, check the herbicide label for instructions on reapplication. You'll need to strip a fresh layer of wood before each application.

Remove the tree stump. Once the tree is dead, you can use a shovel or digger to uproot the stump. Keep in mind that it may take years for the tree to decompose naturally, so you may prefer not to wait. Make sure to completely remove the stump to prevent any new root growth from reappearing.