Buzz
The toilet flange is responsible for connecting the base of the toilet to the waste pipe under the floor. If you notice a leak around the toilet base, replacing the flange might be necessary. After removing the toilet from the flange, you'll realize that replacing the flange is not that difficult, but in some cases, it may be better to hire a professional.
Steps
Remove the Toilet
Place newspaper or cloth on the floor beside the toilet. You'll set the toilet on top of it after removing it from the flange. Ensure there's enough space to work with the flange, but keep the newspaper or cloth nearby so you don't have to move the toilet too far away.
- Alternatively, you can place the toilet in a nearby sink or bathtub, but be aware that the bottom of the toilet may scratch the tiles and/or the surface of the tub.
Turn off the water supply to the toilet. You will notice an oval-shaped valve protruding from the floor or wall, typically located behind the toilet on the left or right side. Rotate this valve clockwise to shut it off.
- If the water doesn't fully stop after closing the valve, you may need to close an additional valve along the pipe – this could be the main valve near the water meter.
Flush and drain the toilet tank. Since the water supply valve is closed, the tank will not refill once you flush it. Press the flush button again to empty any remaining water in the tank.
- Use a wet vacuum or large sponge to soak up any leftover water in the tank.
Disconnect the water supply pipe. This pipe connects the supply valve to the toilet tank, often covered with a metal sheath. Remove the pipe at the connection point underneath the tank. If you can't unscrew it by hand, use pliers or a wrench to turn the connection counterclockwise until it loosens.
- Expect a small amount of water to spill from the pipe, so have a towel ready to soak it up.
Remove the two bolts securing the toilet to the floor. These bolts are located on the left and right sides of the toilet base. They may be covered with plastic caps, which you can easily pry off by hand. Then, use your hand or a wrench to turn the nuts counterclockwise to loosen them from the bolts.
- Each nut typically has a metal or plastic washer underneath, which you should also remove.
- The new toilet flange usually comes with bolts, nuts, and washers, but it's a good idea to keep the old ones just in case you need them later.
Lift the toilet off the floor and place it on newspaper or a cloth. The toilet weighs between 32-54 kg, so if you're unable to lift it, ask for help. To lift it alone, spread your legs, bend your knees, grip the underside of the toilet, and stand up straight (avoid using your back to lift).
- You must lift the toilet vertically to free it from the two bolts passing through the base. After lifting it, step aside and place it onto the newspaper or cloth you prepared.
- Expect some residual water to spill as you move the toilet, so be prepared with towels to clean up.
Stuff a towel or old shirt into the toilet drain pipe. Push the towel or shirt into the pipe, but don't push it in too deep so that you can retrieve it later. Blocking the pipe this way will prevent unpleasant odors from escaping.
- Some people wait to stuff the pipe until after removing the old flange, but doing it now will prevent odors early on and keep small objects, like nuts and bolts, from accidentally falling into the pipe.
Clean and inspect the toilet flange
Scrape off the old wax ring using a putty knife. The wax ring sits on the flange and seals the connection between the flange and the toilet base. It may be misshaped or discolored, but you can easily scrape it off with a putty knife.
- Keep some newspaper or cloth nearby to wipe the knife clean while scraping. The wax ring will break into pieces.
Remove the screws securing the flange to the floor. The screws go through the edge of the flange and down into the floor, typically four in total. Use a screwdriver to turn the screws counterclockwise and remove them.
- Keep these screws as backup for the ones included with the new flange.
Remove the flange if it's made of PVC and sealed with a rubber gasket. If the flange is PVC (the most common type), you can lift it off the toilet drain pipe once the screws are removed. Then, flush the pipe and wipe it with a cloth to get a clearer view.
- If the flange isn't cracked, broken, or warped, you can reuse it with a new wax ring. However, if it's damaged, it's better to replace it.
- Even if you reuse the old flange, you must install a new wax ring.
Hire a professional if the flange is glued or made of cast iron. If the flange isn't PVC and isn't sealed to the drain pipe with a rubber gasket, you have two other options. It might be made from PVC but glued to the PVC drain pipe, or made of cast iron and connected to a cast iron drain pipe. In both cases, you should call a professional to handle the repair.
- If the flange is PVC but glued to the inside or outside of the PVC pipe, you'll need to use a chisel and/or drill to remove it. Be careful, as damaging the drain pipe during this process could result in costly repairs.
- If the old flange is cast iron and connected to a cast iron pipe, you'll need to carefully chisel around the flange edge with a rubber mallet. Again, damaging the drain pipe will lead to expensive repairs.
Buy the correct replacement flange
Measure the inner diameter of the drain pipe. Typically, the pipe's diameter is 10 cm. Take note of the measurement for reference when purchasing a new flange.
- If you can bring the old flange to the hardware store, this measurement will serve as a backup. However, if the old flange is broken, you'll definitely need the measurement.
Bring the old flange to the hardware store to purchase an identical one. Purchase a new flange that matches the size and shape of the old one as closely as possible to ensure it fits properly on the drain pipe.
- If you can't find an exact match or need assistance, ask the store clerk for help.
- If you no longer have the old flange, buy one that matches the pipe size you measured.
Buy a wax ring that fits the new flange. Some flange kits come with a wax ring, but sometimes you'll need to buy one separately. Either way, you need to purchase a wax ring that fits the new flange.
- While wax rings are traditionally used, rubber gaskets are now also available. You can install a rubber gasket in the same way you would a wax ring.
Install the new flange and wax ring
Insert the provided bolts into the new flange. Set aside the nuts and washers for later installation. The flange will have holes on the edges to fit the bolts. Position the bolts so that they point straight up and are aligned opposite each other.
- If you lose the new bolts, you can reuse the ones from the old flange, provided they are still in good condition.
Slide the flange into the drain pipe. The edge of the flange should sit flush with the floor around its entire perimeter, while the flange collar fits snugly into the drain pipe. Position the flange so that the bolts protrude at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (with the back of the toilet at 12 o'clock).
- The flange collar will have a rubber gasket to seal with the inside of the drain pipe.
- If the flange edge doesn't sit flush on the floor, the floor may be uneven or damaged by water. You should repair the bathroom floor (or ask a professional) before proceeding with the toilet installation.
Tighten the bolts to secure the flange to the floor. Use a screwdriver (turn clockwise) to tighten the bolts provided with the new flange. The flange edge will have pre-drilled holes to insert the bolts.
- If needed, use a drill to create new bolt holes in the floor.
- The old holes may be too large for the new bolts. If so, use a rubber mallet to insert plastic anchors into the holes, then tighten the bolts through the flange and into the anchors.
- The flange is usually secured with 4 bolts, but there may be more or fewer depending on the design.
Remove the towel or shirt from the drain pipe. Pick up any wax ring remnants, nuts, or washers before removing the towel or shirt. If not, they could fall into the pipe.
- Do not reuse the towel or shirt—dispose of it!
Tilt the toilet to position the new wax ring. Press the wax ring onto the flange around the hole at the bottom of the toilet. Make sure to press it firmly around the entire perimeter, but avoid distorting it.
- Experts prefer installing the wax ring this way to ensure a good seal around the toilet. However, you can also place the wax ring on the flange first and then position the toilet on top.
- If you're using the newer style of 'wax ring,' which is actually a rubber gasket, place the round side on the flange and position the toilet on top of it.
Position the toilet correctly
Place the toilet onto the flange. Align the two holes in the toilet base with the two bolts protruding from the flange. Once the toilet is positioned on the flange, press down near the back of the toilet to compress the wax ring and seal the joint.
- You must perform this step whether you pressed the wax ring into the toilet base or placed it on the flange first.
Install the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Start by placing the plastic washer onto the bolts, followed by the metal washer. Then, hand-tighten the nuts clockwise before using a wrench to tighten them securely.
- If there are plastic caps, place them on top of the bolts. If the bolts are too long, you can use a hacksaw to shorten them so the caps fit properly.
Reconnect the water supply line. Hand-tighten the connection at the end of the water supply line into the fitting at the bottom of the toilet. Use a wrench or pliers to tighten it further if necessary.
- Plastic fittings are typically designed to be tightened by hand, whereas metal fittings require a wrench or pliers to secure them.
Turn on the water supply to the toilet. Rotate the oval-shaped valve counterclockwise to restore the water flow. You'll hear the sound of water filling the tank.
- While the tank is filling, check for any leaks at the connection between the water supply line and the toilet.
Flush several times to check for leaks. Carefully inspect the floor around the toilet base. If the floor stays dry, you're done. If you notice any water pooling, you'll need to remove the toilet and fix the issue, or call a professional plumber.
Tip
- After removing the toilet, if the flange appears intact but you still see a leak around the toilet base, simply replace the wax ring and check again.
Warning
- Avoid tightening the nuts that connect the toilet to the flange too much. Excessive force can cause the porcelain to crack.
Things You'll Need
- Newspaper or rag
- Wrench
- Putty knife
- Screwdriver
- Measuring tape
- Old towel or shirt
- New flange
- New wax ring
