How to Save a Dying Siamese Fighting Fish

Prepare a first-aid kit. Aquarium stores usually don’t sell medication for Siamese Fighting Fish, so you’ll need to order it online. If you wait until your fish is already sick, it might be too late.

• A complete first-aid kit is often available online. However, you can save money by ordering only the essentials. Basic medications include: Bettazing or Bettamax, Kanamycin, Tetracycline, Amplicillin, Jungle Fungus Eliminator, Maracin 1, and Maracyn 2.

Preventing diseases in fish. Most of the health issues with Siamese Fighting Fish stem from improper feeding and inadequate tank maintenance. These problems will be discussed in detail later. However, here are a few key points to keep in mind:

• Regularly clean the tank. To maintain cleanliness, avoid overcrowding the tank, use aquarium salt (specifically for fish tanks), and disinfect the tank.
• To prevent disease spread, immediately remove dead fish, quarantine new fish for 2 weeks before introducing them to the tank, and always wash your hands after handling the fish.
• Do not overfeed the fish or leave food to decay in the tank.

Recognizing early signs of illness in fish. A clear indication that your Betta fish is unwell is its feeding behavior. If the fish refuses to eat or shows a lack of interest when food is presented, it may be sick. A pale or abnormal color change in the fish also signals illness.

• Other signs of disease include: rubbing against the tank walls as if trying to scratch; swollen, bulging eyes; raised scales; lethargy; and clumped fins instead of spreading them.

Start by treating the water and food. Most fish diseases can be managed by cleaning and disinfecting the tank. No matter what illness the fish has, try this approach first, then move to medications if the situation doesn’t improve.

• Monitor the symptoms in case you need to consult a veterinarian for further treatment.
• Quickly remove sick fish from the tank.

Treating fungal infections. Fish infected with fungus will appear paler than usual, less active, and their fins will often stick together. The most obvious symptom is the presence of white, cotton-like patches on the fish’s body.

• Treat fungal infections by cleaning the tank and treating the water with antifungal medication. Repeat every 3 days until visible signs of infection disappear. Use BettaZing or Bettamax to fully eliminate any remaining fungus.
• Fungal infections usually result from improper tank maintenance with salt and Aquarisol.
• Fungal infections spread quickly, so you must act fast. Quarantine the infected fish immediately.

Treating tail and fin rot. In this condition, the edges of the fins and/or tail of the Betta fish will turn black or red. The fins may appear to be deteriorating and shortening. You may also notice holes or tears on the fins.

• Clean the tank every 3 days. Treat the water with ampicillin or tetracycline. Repeat this process until the fins no longer show signs of necrosis. Add some antifungal medication to the water to help the fish recover.
• The tail will gradually heal, but it may not return to its vibrant original appearance.
• If untreated, this disease can progress to the point of eroding the fish’s body, eventually leading to its death.

Treating swim bladder disorder. If your Betta’s belly is swollen, the fish may have a blockage in its organs and require treatment. You may notice that there’s no waste in the tank. The fish may struggle to swim straight and may even swim upside down.

• This is usually a sign of overfeeding. This condition can be easily treated by reducing the amount of food given to the fish.

Treating white spot disease (Ich). Your fish may develop white spots all over its body and lose its appetite. The fish may also try to rub itself against objects in the tank. This disease is highly contagious and one of the most common causes of fish death.

• To treat white spot disease, increase the water temperature in the tank to 25.5–26.5°C for 4 hours. Add formalin or malachite green to the water.

Treating velvet fungus disease. Velvet fungus causes the fins of the fish to press against the body, the fish loses its color, stops eating, and rubs itself against the gravel in the tank. This disease can be treated, but it may be difficult to detect. To diagnose velvet fungus, shine a flashlight on the fish and look for a golden hue or a rusty film layer.

• Treat velvet fungus by cleaning the tank and treating the water with BettaZing.
• Velvet fungus won’t occur if the tank is properly maintained with salt and water treatment products. If your fish is infected with velvet fungus, you should reconsider your tank care routine.

Treating popeye disease. If one or both eyes of your Betta fish are bulging, the fish has developed popeye disease. Unfortunately, popeye isn’t caused by a single disease. This condition may be treatable or untreatable depending on the case.

• If several fish have popeye, the water quality is likely the issue. Check the water and change 30% of it daily for 4-5 days.
• If one fish in the tank has popeye, it may have a bacterial infection. Remove the fish to a separate tank and treat it with Maracyn or Maracyn II until signs of improvement appear.
• Popeye disease can sometimes be a result of a serious and incurable illness. If the fish does not respond to treatment, there may be little else you can do.

Identifying bloating disease. When suffering from bloating, the fish's abdomen will begin to swell. As the belly inflates, the scales of the fish will rise, resembling pinecones. This is not a specific disease but a symptom indicating the fish’s inability to regulate bodily fluids, which will ultimately lead to death.

• If caught early, bloating can be treated with aquarium salt and medication. However, finding the right treatment is difficult (using the wrong medication can worsen the situation), so treatment is not easy. A veterinarian can assist you. If the fish is severely ill, euthanasia might be the most humane option.
• Bloating is not contagious but may be a sign of improper water conditions in the tank. It is advised to test the water and consider changing it.

Consult with an aquatic veterinarian. An aquatic veterinarian specializes in treating fish diseases and is less common than those who treat pets like dogs and cats. If you're in the United States, you can check this database to see if there’s a specialist near you.

Buy a larger aquarium. A Betta fish requires a tank with a minimum capacity of 10 liters. If you are keeping more than one fish, you should get a bigger tank to ensure there’s enough room for all the fish.

• With a larger tank, you may not need to change the water as often. Toxins accumulate much faster and in higher concentrations in smaller tanks.

Test the water in the tank. Maintaining a balanced pH level helps control ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, ensuring the health of your fish. The ideal pH is 7.

• Treat the water with dechlorinator as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Check the ammonia levels with a test kit. You can use strips or take a water sample to be tested. When you first use dechlorinator, the ammonia levels in the tank should be zero. Test the ammonia levels daily until ammonia starts to appear. This will help you determine when you need to change the water in the tank.

Water change and treatment. Twice a week, you should change the water in your tank to prevent ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite buildup from reaching dangerous levels. You can use distilled water, bottled water, or tap water, but all water should be treated before being added to the tank to restore the nutrient balance.

• Change 25%-50% of the tank water twice a week, meaning add 25% new water and retain 75% old water (or 50% new and 50% old).
• Use a water conditioner to adjust the pH level. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product.
• Mix 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt and 1 drop of antifungal medication like Aquarisol per 4 liters of water. Avoid using table salt, as it may contain harmful additives like iodine and calcium silicate.

Establishing the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium. The nitrogen cycle is the process of establishing beneficial bacteria in the tank to support healthy fish growth. These bacteria help maintain low ammonia levels by breaking down fish waste into nitrites and then into nitrates. Start the nitrogen cycle with a new tank before introducing any fish.

• Provide an ammonia source to begin growing beneficial bacteria that convert into nitrates. You can add fish food or ammonia solution to the tank. Use a testing kit to check ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Initially, ammonia levels will be zero.
• Test the water daily to monitor ammonia levels. Ammonia will decrease as nitrites begin to appear, and nitrites will decrease as nitrate levels rise.
• Add a small amount of fish food to maintain ammonia production, which in turn generates nitrites and nitrates.
• Be patient. The full nitrogen cycle process can take 4-6 weeks to reach appropriate chemical levels. This improves water quality, which helps fish stay healthy and live longer.

Regulating water temperature. The water temperature in your aquarium should range from 24-26°C. Use a 25W aquarium heater to keep the temperature stable. Aquarium heaters are available in pet stores or online, priced around 200-300k VND.

• Install a thermometer in the tank and check it occasionally to ensure the temperature is stable.
• Place the aquarium in a warm area of the room. It is important to maintain a steady temperature. Tanks near windows may be exposed to cold drafts that could harm Betta fish.

Using a filter in the aquarium. Install a filter in your tank to clean impurities from the water. Choose a filter that does not create too much water disturbance, as Betta fish prefer still water. Aquarium filters are available in pet stores, ranging in price from 600k to 3 million VND, depending on the tank size.

• If you do not want to use a filter, consider attaching an air stone to a small pump. Air stones can be purchased from pet stores for about 100-200k VND.
• Buy a filter that is suitable for the size of your aquarium.

Mixing aquarium salt into the water. Aquarium salt is evaporated sea salt used to reduce nitrite levels and support the gill function of fish. It also helps replenish electrolytes, improving the overall health of the fish.

• Mix 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt for every 20 liters of water.
• Add aquarium salt when setting up a new tank, during water changes, and while treating any fish illnesses.
• Do not use table salt as a substitute for aquarium salt. Table salt may contain harmful additives such as iodine and calcium silicate, which can be toxic to fish.

Drain the aquarium water. If you need to isolate fish, you'll also need to disinfect the aquarium to prevent the spread of disease to other fish. It's also recommended to disinfect the tank before returning the fish to it. Empty all the water from the aquarium and remove any items inside the tank.

Dispose of live plants in the aquarium. These plants cannot be disinfected, so it’s best to purchase new plants, whether live or artificial, from the store.

Treat the gravel in the aquarium. If your aquarium has natural gravel at the bottom, remove all the gravel and bake it in a baking tray at 232°C for 1 hour, then allow it to cool completely. Do not bake gravel that has any coatings, as these coatings may melt. In such cases, it’s likely best to discard the old gravel and buy new gravel.

Mix bleach solution and water. Mix one part bleach with nine parts clean tap water in a spray bottle. Use household bleach that does not contain other cleaning agents. Never use bleach when the fish are still in the tank, as it will kill them.

• Spray the bleach solution into the tank. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes.

Rinse the aquarium multiple times. It's important to thoroughly wash out any bleach to prevent contamination when reintroducing the fish. Rinse it several times, and then do one more rinse to ensure safety. Use a paper towel to dry the aquarium.

Place all other items from the aquarium (filter, plastic plants, etc.) into a bucket or bowl with bleach solution. Soak for about 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with water before putting them back in the tank.

Feed your Betta fish the right food. Purchase pellet food made from fish or shrimp powder. You can supplement their diet with boiled beans once a week or occasionally give them whole fruit flies.

Don’t overfeed your fish. The Betta fish's stomach is about the size of its eye, so you should only feed it a portion roughly equivalent to that size, twice a day — about 2-3 pellets.

• Soak the pellets in water for about 10 minutes before feeding. This ensures the food doesn’t expand inside the fish’s stomach.
• If you notice the fish’s belly is swollen after eating, it means you've overfed. If the fish still appears hungry, it may not have eaten enough.

Remove leftover food from the tank. Leftover food will decompose and become toxic, creating a breeding ground for bacteria and raising ammonia levels. The bacteria in the tank will start attacking the fish.

Fast your fish once a week. If you notice digestive issues or constipation, you can fast the fish once a week. This will not harm the fish and allows it to process what it has already consumed.

Quarantine sick fish. If a fish is infected with a contagious disease, it is necessary to remove it from the tank to prevent spreading the illness to others. Prepare a temporary tank by filling it with treated, clean water. Move the sick fish from the old tank into the new one.

• If your fish is stressed from a new tank mate or environmental changes, it will likely improve after being isolated.

Disinfect after handling fish. Many fish diseases are highly contagious. Anything that comes into contact with the fish or water, such as your hands, nets, spoons, etc., must be disinfected before interacting with other fish. Use antibacterial soap to wash your hands.

• Disinfect all items that have touched the fish or tank by soaking them in a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water). Soak everything for about 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Wash again to ensure safety. Never add bleach to the tank while fish are inside as it can kill them.

Treat fish diseases with medication. Once the illness of your fish has been identified, you can use over-the-counter medications to treat the condition. Choose the appropriate medication for the specific disease and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

• Be sure to complete the full course of treatment as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Exercise caution when administering medications. Do not randomly try different medications or guess which one might work. If uncertain, it’s best to consult with a fish veterinarian who specializes in aquatic species.