How to Sew

Despite the fact that humans have been sewing since the Paleolithic era, using a needle and thread without instructions can still seem like an overwhelming task for many. It's a challenge to cover such a vast topic in a single article, so the following guide is aimed at those who are entirely new to hand sewing and want to learn the basic techniques.

Pre-wash or iron the fabric first. If your fabric tends to wrinkle easily, you'll be glad you did. Be sure to follow this step before starting your sewing project. The fabric should be fully dry.

• Follow the fabric’s care instructions. Whether washing by machine, by hand, or letting it air dry, always adhere to the given instructions.
• If the fabric was placed in the dryer and has wrinkled a little, iron it out to make sewing easier.

Threading the Needle. Choose a thread length that is as long as possible. Cut a piece of thread that's about twice the length you actually need. Hold one end of the thread with your thumb and index finger, and thread it through the needle’s eye. Then, pull the needle to the middle of the thread. Tie the two ends of the thread into a knot.

• Cut the thread with sharp scissors, and wet the end of the thread slightly to help it pass through the needle more easily. If you struggle with this, the thread might be too thick or the needle too small.

Insert the needle through the fabric’s wrong side. This means inserting the needle from the side of the fabric that is not visible. Pull the needle through along with the thread (you may need a little extra force here), until the knot reaches the fabric. If the knot pulls through to the right side of the fabric, tie a bigger knot.

• The reason for starting from the wrong side is so that the knot won't be visible on the right side of the fabric or garment (the side with the design or pattern).
• If the knot goes through to the right side, there are a few possible reasons:
  • You may need to tie a larger knot.
  • Your needle could be too large, creating a hole in the fabric that’s as big as or bigger than the knot, allowing the knot to pass through.
  • You might be pulling the thread too tightly, causing the knot to pass through.

Push the needle through the fabric’s right side. Then, push the needle through the wrong side near where you began stitching. Pull the entire thread through until it feels taut. Congratulations! You’ve completed your first stitch on the right side of the fabric! Doesn’t it look like a dash?

• The stitch should be firm enough to lie flat on the fabric, but not so tight that it causes the fabric to bunch up.

Repeat the previous two steps. Always push the needle through the wrong side of the fabric at a point right next to the last stitch. Pull the thread through, and this will be your second stitch. Continue stitching, making sure each stitch is even.

• Generally, the stitches will form a straight line, similar to how you might type characters on a computer like this:
  - - - - - -
  • Stitches with large gaps between them are called basting stitches. This method is often used to temporarily hold pieces of fabric together or to stitch fabrics together.

Finish by inserting the needle through the fabric's right side. You’re done! The needle and thread should now be on the wrong side, and you’ll complete your stitching with another knot. Make sure the knot is pulled tight against the fabric; otherwise, the stitches may shift and loosen.

• Alternatively, you can insert the needle through to the right side but leave some slack to create a loop of thread on the wrong side. Then, insert the needle through the wrong side again, near your previous stitch. Tighten the thread so that no loop remains on the fabric’s right side, but the original loop is still intact. Run the needle through the loop and tie a knot. This loop helps secure the thread on the fabric's surface. It’s best to pass the needle through the loop twice to ensure it's secure.

Practice quick stitches. Basting, as described above, is a good starting point. However, longer stitches tend to be more prone to tearing and revealing the thread.

• Basting stitches have longer lengths—stronger stitches are typically of medium or short length. When inserting the needle from the right to the wrong side of the fabric, aim to place each subsequent stitch as close as possible to the previous one.

Zigzag Stitching. This is a forward-and-backward stitch used when a straight stitch isn’t suitable, such as when mending tears or stitching on stretchy fabrics. It’s also handy for temporarily sewing two pieces of fabric together. The resulting stitch resembles a zigzag shape (hence the name) and can be long, medium, or short.

• A hidden stitch is a variation of the zigzag. Also called a ‘blind stitch,’ it’s similar to zigzag stitching but also incorporates regular straight stitches. This stitch is used to create an invisible seam, as the zigzag stitch is focused only on the right side of the fabric. The fewer stitches, the less visible the seam will be.

Sewing Two Pieces of Fabric Together. For this technique, place two fabric pieces with their wrong sides facing each other (right sides facing outward). Align the edges of the fabric that you want to stitch together. Sew a line along the edge.

• After sewing, open the two fabric pieces. They will be joined together by the stitch you just made, but the stitch will be visible. For a neater finish, consider using the hidden stitch technique.

Patch. Patching a tear is not too difficult. Simply fold the edges of the tear together on the inside (the wrong side of the fabric). Sew the edges together to create a seam. Use short stitches (without gaps between them) to prevent any openings from showing.