Buzz
Uniforms in the military, service industries, scout teams, etc., often feature patches. Occasionally, you may need to sew a new patch onto your uniform when you get promoted or earn a new insignia. Sewing patches onto uniforms is a straightforward task that can be done either by hand or with a sewing machine.
Steps
Hand Sewing
Wash, dry, and press the uniform flat before starting to sew. If it's a new uniform, make sure to wash and dry it before sewing the patch, as the fabric will shrink unevenly under the patch after the first wash and dry cycle.
- Many uniforms are made from cotton fabric, which tends to shrink after the first wash. If you sew the patch before washing the uniform, the fabric underneath will shrink and cause the patch to wrinkle.
- You should also iron the fabric area where the patch will go before sewing. Wrinkles in the fabric will flatten out when ironed. If you sew the patch onto wrinkled fabric, your uniform will stay permanently wrinkled.
Select a needle and thread. You can choose thread that matches the color of the uniform or the edge of the patch.
- If you can't find thread that matches the uniform or the patch's edge, opt for a darker shade that closely resembles the desired color.
- Darker thread blends better and doesn’t stand out as much as lighter-colored thread. You could also use transparent thread to make it less noticeable.
Position the patch correctly. Some patches, like military uniform patches, need to be placed in specific locations.
- For example, if you're sewing on a patch of the American flag, it should be positioned on the upper arm of the sleeve. The flag must be oriented correctly so that when the wearer moves forward, it appears as though the flag is flying in the wind, advancing with them.
- Consult with a superior to ensure the patch is in the right position.
Attach the patch to the uniform with a safety pin. This step allows you to check if the patch is in the correct position, or you can ask for confirmation.
- If you're using a pin to attach the patch, be cautious when trying on the uniform to avoid pricking yourself with the pin.
- The reason for trying it on after pinning is that the fabric will stretch when worn, which could affect the patch’s shape.
Secure the patch before sewing. Use a safety pin or sewing pin to temporarily hold the patch in place. You can also use fabric tape to attach the patch to the garment.
- Even if you’re not using a heat-activated patch, fabric tape can work well to secure it. Tape is often better than pins because it holds the patch firmly in place while you sew, so you don’t have to worry about the pin poking you.
- Cut the tape and place the patch on it, then iron it to adhere the patch to the fabric.
- If you don’t use tape, you'll need to pin the patch to the fabric instead.
Cut a length of thread. If you're new to sewing, it’s recommended to start with a thread length no longer than 45 cm. Longer thread tends to get tangled and is more difficult to manage than shorter lengths.
- You could also try not cutting the thread off the spool. This way, the thread won't get tangled.
- This method also means you won’t run out of thread and need to rethread the needle.
Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Threading the needle can be a bit tricky. You can use a needle threader to save time.
- If you don’t have a needle threader, wet the thread and twist it in your mouth. Saliva will temporarily bind the tiny fibers together, making it easier to thread the needle.
Start piercing the needle through the fabric and patch. Begin from the wrong side of the fabric and push the needle through the patch.
- It’s best to start from the wrong side of the fabric so that the knot stays hidden on the inside. Begin by pushing the needle from the wrong side to the right side.
Sew using a straight stitch. Insert the needle through the fabric, about 0.5 cm from the previous stitch.
- When sewing a patch onto a garment, the straight stitch is not only the easiest but also the fastest. You don’t need to use complex stitches, especially after the patch is already attached to the fabric.
- A straight stitch is also the least visible.
Continue sewing the patch onto the fabric. Keep using the straight stitch to sew around the patch. The last stitch should meet exactly where you started.
- When hand-sewing a patch onto a uniform, it’s crucial to sew slowly and try to make each stitch as even as possible. Even stitches will help make the patch look much more polished on the garment.
Tie a knot in the thread. Once you’ve sewn around the entire patch, loop the thread and pass the needle through the loop to secure it with a knot.
- To finish the patching process, pass the needle through the wrong side and form a small loop of thread. Pass the needle through the loop and pull the thread tight to create a firm knot.
Cut the thread end. Trim the thread outside the knot.
- Leave a short length of thread, about 1 cm. This will ensure you don't accidentally cut through the knot. Tuck the end of the thread under the patch.
Sew using a sewing machine
Iron the fabric. Before attaching the patch, it’s a good idea to iron the uniform to smooth out any wrinkles.
- Ironing the fabric first ensures you don’t sew over wrinkles, which could cause permanent creases in the garment.
Place the patch in the correct position. It’s best to test the placement of the patch on the garment before sewing.
- If you skip this step and sew the patch incorrectly, you’ll have to undo the stitches and start over.
Iron the patch onto the fabric. Even if you're not using an iron-on patch, you might still want to use heat adhesive tape.
- Cut and place the tape on the fabric. Put the patch on top of the tape and iron it to secure the patch onto the fabric.
- If you don’t use heat adhesive tape, you’ll need to pin the patch to the fabric. Using safety pins can make it more difficult when sewing with a machine.
Place the fabric onto the sewing machine. Adjust the stitch length to a shorter setting for attaching the patch, and use a straight stitch. Raise the presser foot.
- Different sewing machines have different features and settings. It’s a good idea to refer to the user manual for guidance.
- Ensure that you are only sewing through one layer of fabric. This can be tricky when attaching a patch to the sleeve. Pull the fabric at the back to avoid sewing two layers together.
Thread the sewing machine. Place the thread onto the bobbin spool. The user manual will guide you through this step. Typically, you will wind the thread around the bobbin spool and press the pedal to wind the thread onto the bobbin.
- Once the bobbin is wound, insert it into the correct position for your machine, then guide the thread through the machine’s parts to thread the needle. Each machine has a unique threading process, so refer to the manual.
- Don’t forget to use the correct thread color. Ideally, choose a thread that matches the patch’s color or use clear thread.
Set the sewing machine to a slow speed when starting to sew.
- Sewing machines usually have various speed settings. The speed determines how fast the needle moves. Set the speed to slow for better control when attaching the patch.
Start sewing. Press the pedal to make the needle move and gently guide the fabric until the patch is fully sewn.
- As you rotate the fabric and patch, move both at the same time. Ensure that the presser foot is lifted, but the needle remains in position.
- When turning the fabric, you need to lift the presser foot first to move the fabric, but keep the needle in place to maintain consistent stitches.
- After completing the stitching around the patch, sew a few reverse stitches to secure the thread and prevent it from unraveling.
- Use scissors to trim the thread, leaving about 1 cm of thread. This short length ensures you don’t accidentally cut the knot.
Sew the patch onto the sleeve
Use a seam ripper to remove the patch that needs to be replaced. If the patch needs to be changed due to a promotion, begin by using the seam ripper to carefully remove the stitches, then take off the old patch.
- Carefully unpick each stitch around the patch.
- Use the pointed tip of the seam ripper to remove any loose threads.
- Avoid using a razor blade to prevent the risk of cutting your hand or damaging the fabric.
Iron the fabric. You need to iron the sleeve to remove any wrinkles.
- Ironing helps smooth out any marks or needle holes left behind from the old patch.
- Pressing the fabric before sewing also ensures you won’t accidentally sew over wrinkles that could cause permanent creases in the garment.
Position the patch in the correct place. Make sure the patch is placed accurately before sewing or ironing it onto the sleeve. If you're attaching the patch to a uniform, there will likely be specific placement instructions.
- For example, navy stripes should be positioned about 5 cm above the sleeve cuff. Refer to the provided guide for accurate placement.
- You can pin the patch with a basting pin or use an iron to secure it temporarily.
- Ironing the patch onto the fabric is not a permanent solution, but a temporary one to hold it in place while you sew. This way, you won't have to worry about pricking your fingers with pins during the sewing process.
- If you choose to iron the patch, let it cool before starting to sew.
Sew the patch onto the uniform. You can sew it by hand or with a sewing machine.
- Use thread that matches the patch's color. Choose thread that is the same color as the border of the patch or transparent thread.
- If you're using a sewing machine, make sure to pull the back layer of fabric out to avoid stitching two layers of fabric together.
Don’t rush. Take your time while sewing to ensure the job is done properly, so you don’t have to redo it.
- Depending on the patch's position, the sewing process may be a bit more challenging. If the patch is on the upper sleeve, use the collar to separate the fabric layers. If it's near the cuff, be careful not to sew through both layers of the sleeve fabric.
- Set your sewing machine to a slow speed. When you need to turn the uniform and patch, raise the presser foot and leave the needle in place. Rotate the fabric and then lower the presser foot.
- If sewing by hand, sew slowly to keep stitches evenly spaced using a straight stitch. A straight stitch is ideal for attaching the patch.
Tie a knot or backstitch a few stitches on the sewing machine. After sewing around the patch, finish the stitching by either tying a knot or backstitching a few stitches on the sewing machine.
- Use scissors to cut the thread. Leave a short length of thread, about 1 cm, to avoid accidentally cutting the knot.
Advice
- If the sewing machine can reach the patch placement, you can sew the patch with a machine. If the machine uses both upper and lower threads, select the upper thread to match the patch's border color and the lower thread to match the underside of the fabric.
- If the basting pin causes the patch to become uneven and difficult to sew, you can temporarily secure it with clips and remove them after sewing. Fusible fabric can also be used to temporarily attach the patch to the garment before machine sewing.
- If the patch and fabric are too thick to easily push the needle through, consider using a thimble to protect your fingers while sewing by hand.
- Ironing the patch onto the garment with fusible tape may be easier than sewing (you can check out the article “How to Apply Iron-on Patches” for more details).
- Stitched patches maintain their appearance for many years and hundreds of washes.
- Glove needles or leather sewing needles are ideal for sewing patches.
Warning
- If you only use an iron to attach the patch to the garment, over time, the patch may curl up and peel off. Depending on your activities while wearing the uniform, the patch may catch on sharp edges or branches. It’s better to sew the patch for a more secure attachment.
- Many organizations now produce patches that can be ironed on, so make sure to check this feature before attempting to sew the patch by hand.
What You Will Need
- Thread matching the color of the uniform or the patch's border
- Scissors
- Sewing needles
- 1-2 basting pins or safety pins
- Optional: needle threader and/or thimble for hand sewing
- Sewing machine, if available
- Fusible tape
- Iron
