How to Treat Diarrhea in Rabbits

Rabbits possess a specialized digestive system and are prone to issues like diarrhea. They produce two types of droppings: regular droppings and night droppings. When a rabbit is suffering from true diarrhea, both types of droppings become loose; while this is rare in adult rabbits, prompt veterinary care is essential for this condition. Soft night droppings (often mistaken for diarrhea) can easily be treated at home with some simple dietary changes. Once the rabbit recovers, pay extra attention to their care, bathe them if they get dirty, and maintain a clean, quiet, and comfortable environment.

Distinguish between true diarrhea and soft night droppings. Rabbits have a complex digestive system and two types of droppings. True diarrhea occurs when both the regular droppings and night droppings are loose and unformed. If you notice regular droppings alongside the loose ones, it’s likely just soft night droppings.

• Adult rabbits rarely suffer from diarrhea, but it sometimes happens in young rabbits, especially those weaned improperly. This is a medical emergency with a high risk of death for rabbits of all ages.
• Normal night droppings resemble small clusters of grapes, and rabbits need to eat these to maintain their nutrition. Soft night droppings are more common in adult rabbits and are often mistaken for diarrhea. Treatment usually involves simple dietary changes.
• Soft night droppings are typically mushy or sticky clumps that adhere to the rabbit's fur and surrounding surfaces, often accompanied by a foul smell.

Immediately take the rabbit to the vet if it is suffering from severe diarrhea. If the rabbit's feces are entirely liquid, contact your vet and let them know you're on your way. Diarrhea in rabbits requires urgent veterinary care, especially in young rabbits.

• Diarrhea in rabbits can be fatal and must be treated seriously. The condition is often caused by a disruption in the microbiota of the cecum (a part of the rabbit's digestive system that aids fermentation).
• If you don't have a vet with experience treating rabbits, search online for one. In the U.S., you can find a list of vets on the House Rabbit Society website: http://rabbit.org/vet-listings/.

Bring the latest stool sample of your rabbit to the vet. The vet will need to examine the sample under a microscope to make an accurate diagnosis. If possible, collect both the regular and nighttime stool samples to bring with you.

• If you cannot bring the stool sample to the clinic, try to take a photo of the feces for the vet to examine.
• You don't need a large amount of stool, just about the size of 2-3 grapes. You can store the sample in a latex glove or a zippered plastic bag to make handling easier for the clinic staff.

Ensure the rabbit has access to plenty of water. Dehydration is a major concern, so make sure the rabbit always has clean water to drink. If the rabbit refuses or cannot drink, it will need subcutaneous Lactated Ringers solution to maintain hydration. It is best to have a vet or veterinary technician administer the solution to your rabbit.

Administer the hydration solution to your rabbit if necessary. If you cannot reach the vet and you have the necessary medication and syringe on hand, sanitize the needle and vial cap, then draw 1-2 mg of solution into the syringe. Gently pinch the rabbit's skin to form a tent, and inject at a 45-degree angle under the skin. Be cautious not to push the needle through the opposite side of the skin, as it is very thin.

• Before injecting, pull back the plunger slightly to check for blood. If blood appears, you have hit a blood vessel or muscle, and you need to choose another site. After injection, remove the needle swiftly and gently in the direction it was inserted.
• Rabbits may develop a small bump after being injected with the hydration solution. This is normal, as the body will absorb and distribute the solution, and the bump will disappear.
• The best sites for subcutaneous injections are the neck and hips. Administer a total of 10mg within 24 hours at different locations to minimize tissue damage.

Give the rabbit the prescribed medication as directed by the vet. Based on the diagnosis, the vet will prescribe antibiotics to treat the infection. Additionally, the vet may recommend other medications for the rabbit, including:

• Imodium or other anti-diarrheal drugs
• Cholestyramine to treat toxins caused by bacteria or parasites
• Pain relievers
• Colostrum to boost the immune system in young rabbits

Remove all other foods except for hay. If your rabbit is used to eating hay, stop feeding it any other foods. Place multiple hay racks around the enclosure to encourage your rabbit to eat. Make sure to provide hay that is not from legume species (like alfalfa) as they have too much carbohydrate and protein.

• Hay that is rich in fiber is the most important component of a rabbit's diet and is essential for proper digestion. It will help balance the gut flora and the cecal digestion system. Only feed your rabbit hay and water until its feces return to normal.
• Ensure the hay is fresh and mold-free. Fresh hay should have a pleasant scent, while hay that is dry or moldy will not be eaten by your rabbit.

Gradually switch to hay if your rabbit only eats pellets. If your rabbit typically does not eat hay, it may become hungry when you eliminate all other food. Check the pellet label to ensure the primary ingredient is hay. You can give your rabbit pellets twice a day while always providing hay in the enclosure and monitoring whether it eats the hay.

• Once you notice your rabbit eating hay regularly, begin to slowly reduce the amount of pellets over 1-2 weeks until it is completely off pellets.
• If your rabbit refuses to eat hay, grind the pellets in a food processor, spray some water on the hay, and sprinkle the ground pellets on top.

Switch from seed and nut-based pellets to hay-based pellets. If the pellets you have do not contain hay, switch to a type that includes hay as the main ingredient. Mix half of the new pellets with the old ones and gradually reduce the old pellets over 1-2 weeks until the rabbit is eating only the new pellets.

• Once your rabbit has fully transitioned to hay-based pellets, let it get used to real hay, then slowly decrease the pellet quantity.

Stop giving your rabbit treats. Your rabbit may feel disappointed for not getting its favorite treats, but it is important not to feed it any. Rabbits are herbivores with a specialized digestive system, so even fruits can cause problems. Moreover, if you feed your rabbit other foods, it may refuse to eat the essential hay needed for its recovery.

Introduce leafy greens into the rabbit's diet once its stool has returned to normal for at least a week. It may take anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months for the rabbit's stool to normalize. After one week of normal stool, you can start offering a small amount of leafy greens to ensure your rabbit is getting the necessary nutrients.

• Some suitable leafy greens for rabbits include basil, broccoli, lettuce, kale, and rainbow chard. Dark leafy greens like kale tend to be more nutritious than lighter greens like iceberg lettuce.
• Give your rabbit up to 1 cup (approximately 150g) of each vegetable, then stop for 48 hours to ensure it doesn't cause any soft night stool.

Dry bath for the rabbit. If your rabbit's fur is dirty from stool, you can sprinkle baby cornstarch powder on the soiled areas and gently brush out the mess with your fingers (or a fine-tooth comb if necessary). Carefully remove the powder, but avoid letting it get near the rabbit's face.

• Only use cornstarch powder, not talcum powder or flea powder.
• Regular cleaning is important during recovery. Dry bathing is preferable since rabbits tolerate dry baths better than wet ones.

Wet bath for the rabbit if necessary. If the dirty spots on the fur are wet and have an odor, you'll need to give it a wet bath. Fill a sink with warm water and add 1 tablespoon of non-medicated, non-allergenic bath oil (preferably one made for rabbits). Gently hold the rabbit to prevent it from jumping out and potentially injuring itself. Submerge the rabbit into the sink until the soiled areas of the fur are fully submerged in the water.

• Work the soap into a lather, then drain the water from the sink. Refill the sink with warm water to rinse off the soap.
• You can also try using a sponge or soft cloth soaked in water to clean the rabbit, which may be more comfortable than submerging the rabbit fully in water.
• After the bath, towel dry the rabbit. You can also use a blow dryer on the cool setting to dry the rabbit.

Ensure the rabbit is eating and drinking properly. Whether the treatment involves medications or changes to the diet, you must closely monitor the rabbit's food and water intake. Make note of how often you need to add food and water to the enclosure and try to track how much the rabbit consumes.

• Observe the rabbit (from a distance if necessary) as much as possible, and pay attention to whether it is eating and drinking regularly. Regularly check the rabbit's enclosure and monitor the rabbit's stool for any unusual characteristics.
• The vet may call to check on the rabbit's condition, or you may need to bring the rabbit in for a follow-up visit. This information is vital for the vet, so be sure to record and have it ready.

Maintain a quiet, clean, and stress-free environment. Rabbits are easily startled, and stressors like loud noises can negatively impact their health. Keeping a calm and clean environment is essential for their recovery process.

• Place the rabbit's enclosure in a quiet area of the house, away from heavy traffic. Avoid allowing children, guests, or other pets near the rabbit's cage.
• A dirty cage can cause stress for the rabbit, so it's crucial to ensure the cage is kept clean at all times.