Buzz
A sewing machine may appear complex to those unfamiliar with it. However, don't let the fear of not knowing how to operate the machine or not knowing how to sew stop you from creating beautiful garments. Follow the detailed guide below on the machine's components, setup, and operation so you can start making whatever you need on your own.
Steps
Familiarize yourself with the parts of the sewing machine
Locate the power switch. It may sound trivial, but the very first thing you need to do is find the power switch! The switch is positioned differently depending on the type of machine, but it's usually located on the right side of the machine's body.
Identify the thread spool holder's location. It is a small pillar made of plastic or metal mounted at the top of the sewing machine, designed to hold the thread spool in place.
Locate the thread guide hook. This component guides the thread from the spool at the top of the machine to the bobbin winder. It is a metal piece with a geometric design, positioned at the top of the machine on the left side.
Find the bobbin winder post. On the right side of the thread spool holder, there is a smaller pillar made of plastic or metal, accompanied by a small horizontal wheel. This is the bobbin winder post, and together with the thread spool, they function to wind thread onto the bobbin before sewing.
Identify the stitch adjustment buttons. These buttons are located in different positions depending on the sewing machine model, but generally, you will find a small screen next to a few physical knobs on the front of the machine. These buttons allow you to select the stitch type, stitch length, and sewing direction (forward or backward). Refer to the specific sewing machine's manual for details on each button's function.
Locate the thread tension dial. To thread the machine, you pull the thread from the spool at the top, pass it through the thread guide hook, and then thread it into the tension dial. The tension dial (with two deep grooves) is usually positioned on the left side of the machine. Numbers and arrows are often printed next to the dial to assist in threading the machine correctly.
Locate the tension adjustment wheel. This small wheel, engraved with numbers, is located near the presser foot. It controls the thread tension while sewing. If the tension is too tight, the needle will be pulled to the right. If the tension is too loose, the thread will bulge beneath the fabric being sewn.
Find the needle clamp screw. This metallic component secures the needle in place while sewing. It is located beneath the sewing machine body and resembles a large screw that protrudes to the right of the needle.
Locate the presser foot. This metal part sits beneath the needle clamp screw and resembles a small ski. During sewing, it helps to position the fabric and guides it into the machine.
Identify the presser foot lifter and practice raising and lowering the presser foot. This lever is located on the right side or behind the needle mechanism. You can raise the presser foot completely or lower it completely to adjust it.
Locate the throat plate. The throat plate is a silver-colored metal disc located just beneath the needle. Simple, right?
Locate the feed dog. The feed dog (the name may sound odd!) is a small metallic tooth located beneath the presser foot and above the throat plate. It moves the fabric through the machine while sewing. The feed dog consists of two small metal rows directly beneath the presser foot.
Identify the bobbin cover and the bobbin release pin. The bobbin is a small spool of thread located below the sewing machine, and its purpose is to provide thread for the needle on the underside of the fabric. Beneath the metal plate where the needle sits is the bobbin cover, with a release pin or button next to it. You’ll use this to position the bobbin correctly before sewing.
Installing the sewing machine
Place the sewing machine on a sturdy table or in the machine frame in front of you. Sit in a chair that is at the right height for the sewing machine table. Position the machine with the needle area on the left and the body of the machine on the right. Before plugging in, check a few things and familiarize yourself with the machine.
Insert the needle securely. The needle has a flat side, which ensures it only moves in one direction, usually with the flat side facing the back. One side of the needle has a groove running down it, which typically faces the flat side of the needle shaft. When inserting the needle, the groove should face the direction where you thread the needle (the thread runs through this groove as the needle moves up and down in the fabric). Push the needle fully into the shaft and tighten the screw. If you have trouble inserting the needle, refer to the user manual for assistance.
Wind and thread through the machine. The sewing machine uses two thread sources: one coming from above and one coming from below, with the lower thread being from the bobbin. To wind the bobbin, place it on the top spindle of the machine. Follow the instructions printed on the machine, threading the thread from the spool through the guides, and then around to the bobbin. Start the winding mechanism and let it automatically stop when the bobbin is full.
- Once the bobbin is filled, insert it into the shuttle below the needle, positioned on the lower half of the machine. In some cases, the bobbin will simply drop into place (the shuttle may be built into the machine). If that happens, guide the thread through a small slit on the shuttle's front, pulling it to the left with the thread end outside. Then, you’ll need to thread the end of the thread through the hole on the faceplate after threading the needle above.
- Click the link here for a detailed guide on how to wind and load the bobbin.
Thread the sewing machine. The spool of thread sits on top of the sewing machine, but you’ll need to remove the thread and pull it to the needle. To thread the machine, pull the thread from the spool and guide it through the threading hook at the top of the machine, then bring it down and loop it around the tension mechanism. Many machines have numbers and arrows printed to guide you through the threading process.
- You can also follow the printed instructions directly on the machine.
- The typical threading sequence is: "left to right, down, up, into the hook, through the needle". Alternatively, you can follow this method: "Spool holder, tension wheel, tension mechanism, needle, and follow the threading guide between these parts".
- The needle can be threaded from the left, right, or front to back. If the machine is pre-threaded, remember the direction; otherwise, pay attention to the last guiding component before reaching the needle, as it’s the closest to the needle threading direction.
Pull both ends of the thread. Use your left hand to pull the thread from the needle towards you, while with your right hand, turn the handwheel towards you to make the needle complete a full cycle down and up. At this point, you’ll pull the thread from the needle, which has been held by your left hand all this time. The bobbin thread will be caught when the needle goes down and up, now hooked into the needle thread. Pull the looped thread to bring up the bobbin’s thread, or release the needle’s thread and insert scissors between the presser foot and the needle plate to pull the bobbin thread out. Now you’ll have both threads: one from the needle and one from the bobbin below.
Plug in and turn on the machine. Many sewing machines have a light to indicate if the power is connected. If there’s a power switch, it’s usually located on the right or the back of the machine. Some machines do not have a separate switch, meaning they’re ready to run as soon as plugged in.
- Install the foot pedal into the machine. Position the foot pedal conveniently underfoot.
Daniela Gutierrez-Diaz
Fashion designer
Fashion designer
Keep your sewing machine clean. Daniela Gutierrez-Diaz, a fashion designer, advises: "Be sure to clean out fabric fibers stuck in the bobbin area and oil the hook mechanism. This will help your sewing machine run smoothly and quietly!"
Getting started with your sewing machine
Select a straight stitch and a medium stitch length. Refer to your user manual to understand how to select settings for your sewing machine model. For this machine, the stitch length is adjusted by turning the dial on the right side of the machine until it clicks into place. Always adjust the stitch length when the needle is up and outside the fabric, as the needle can move when you adjust it.
- The straight stitch is the most commonly used stitch. The second most common is the zigzag stitch, which is often used to prevent fabric edges from fraying.
Practice sewing on scrap fabric. Choose simple woven fabric, not hand-knitted, to practice sewing in the beginning. Avoid using thick fabric for your early practice sessions. Denim and flannel are difficult to sew because they are too thick when multiple layers are stacked together.
Align the fabric under the sewing needle. You should sew with the main fabric positioned to the left of the machine. Trying to force the fabric to the right will result in poor stitch quality.
Lift the presser foot onto the fabric. The presser foot, located behind or to the side of the needle mechanism, should be raised to help you adjust it.
- If you gently pull the fabric while the presser foot is lowered, you'll feel the machine grip the fabric firmly. While sewing, the machine uses the feed dog beneath the presser foot to pull the fabric at the right speed. You don't need to pull the fabric into the machine; in fact, doing so can cause the needle to bend or damage your project. You can adjust the speed and stitch length on the machine.
Hold both ends of the thread. During the first few stitches, you must hold both ends of the thread to prevent them from being pulled back into the fabric. After you've stitched a little, you can let go of the thread and use both hands to guide the fabric and the machine.
Press the foot pedal. The foot pedal controls the speed of the machine. Just like the accelerator in a car, the harder you press, the faster the machine runs. Initially, you should press gently, just enough for the machine to start running.
- The sewing machine might be equipped with a knee lever instead of a foot pedal. In that case, you must use your knee to push it to the right.
- You can use the handwheel on top of the machine's right side to turn the machine or move the needle without needing electricity.
- The machine will automatically feed the fabric. You can "guide" the fabric in a straight line or a curve by using your hands to direct it into the machine. Practice sewing straight lines and try some curved stitches. The only difference is in how you guide the fabric into the machine.
- Don't pull the fabric while the machine is running. This could cause the fabric to stretch, break the needle, or cause thread jams. If you feel the fabric moving too slowly, you can press the foot pedal harder, adjust the stitch length, or (if needed) get a faster sewing machine.
Find the reverse lever or button and try using it. This feature reverses the direction of the fabric feed, so the fabric will be pulled back toward you when the machine runs. Typically, the reverse lever or button is spring-loaded, so you'll need to hold it down while sewing in reverse.
- At the end of a seam, sew a few reverse stitches to overlap the last stitches you made. This is how you finish a seam to prevent the thread from unraveling.
Use the handwheel to move the needle to its highest position. Then raise the presser foot. At this point, you can easily pull the fabric out. If the thread is being pulled back when you try to remove the fabric, check the needle position.
Cutting the Thread. Many sewing machines have a small V-shaped notch behind the presser foot. You can grab both ends of the thread and pull it down into this notch to cut it. If your machine lacks this notch or if you prefer a cleaner cut, use a pair of thread snips. Leave a small portion of thread on the machine for the next stitch.
Practice Stitching a Complete Seam. Pin two fabric pieces together with the right sides facing each other, close to the edge. The seam will be sewn about 1.3-1.5 cm from the edge. You can practice on a single piece of fabric (to prevent fraying at the edges), but the main purpose is to join two fabric pieces together. Therefore, it’s good to get used to stitching through multiple layers of fabric.
- The fabric should be pinned with the right sides facing inwards so the seam ends up on the inside when finished. The "right" side of the fabric is the side you want to appear on the outside when the project is completed. For printed fabrics, the darker side is usually considered the right side. For solid fabrics, there might not be a clear right side.
- Pin the fabric at a 90-degree angle to the edge where the seam will run. You can sew over the pins and remove them without damaging the machine, fabric, or the pins. However, it's safer to remove the pins before they go into the machine as the sewing needle might bend or break if it accidentally hits a pin. Avoid sewing directly over the pin head.
- As you sew, be mindful of the direction of the fabric. Seams can run in any direction, but most sewing projects are cut to make the main seam parallel to the weave. Pay attention to any pattern on the fabric and align it properly. For example, make sure any printed flowers, animals, or stripes are oriented correctly.
Moving to Another Section of Fabric. Use the handwheel located on the right side of the sewing machine to raise the needle to its highest position before starting a new seam, and to remove the fabric once the stitch is complete. Once the needle is lifted, you can shift to a different part of the fabric.
- If the needle isn’t at its highest point, it might prevent the thread from moving when you pull both ends of the thread.
- Look for the markings on the machine to determine the seam allowance. This is the standard distance between the fabric edge and the seam. Typically, a 1.5 cm or 1.3 cm seam allowance is used. You can use the built-in ruler next to the needle to measure this distance. If your machine doesn’t have this feature, you can mark it with tape.
Learning to Sew Around Sharp Corners. When you approach a corner, lower the needle as deep as it will go into the fabric. You can use the handwheel to lower the needle. Lift the presser foot. Keep the needle in its lowest position and turn the fabric to align with the new direction while keeping the needle in the fabric. Finally, lower the presser foot again to continue sewing in the new direction.
Try Sewing a Simple Project. After practicing a few basic stitches and getting familiar with the basics of sewing, try making a pillow, cushion cover, or gift bag.
Advice
- Before you can control the foot pedal, adjust the fabric under the needle, and maintain the right speed, you need to practice. Even the best seamstresses have to test the machine before starting any project.
- Take time to try out the different stitching patterns your machine offers. This is especially important if you're planning to sew buttonholes or artistic stitches. If your machine lacks various stitch styles, don’t worry—you can still create many kinds of stitches using the straight stitch, or by combining the straight stitch with a zigzag stitch (which is easier than you might think—just set it up on the machine, and let it do the rest!).
- Poor-quality needles can lead to issues, but you definitely cannot use old or low-quality thread. Choose thread based on the fabric’s weight and texture—standard polyester-wrapped cotton is best for medium-weight fabrics (around sizes 40-60). Cotton thread should be pre-treated to increase its strength, or it might break when sewing at high speeds. For heavier fabrics, like stuffed items, leather, or vinyl laminate, use leather sewing thread. Anything made of multiple components will require thicker thread.
- If you’re still confused or don’t have the manual, and your sewing machine looks completely different from the one described here, ask someone experienced in sewing, or visit a local sewing machine repair shop or fabric store. They may offer sewing classes, provide paid support, or teach you basic sewing techniques. If they help you, it's a nice gesture to buy something from their shop as a thank you.
- Sometimes, tension isn’t the problem, and you simply need a new needle. A needle shouldn't be used to sew more than two garments. Fine wool fabrics require a different needle compared to knitted fabrics, and denim fabric needs a heavier needle, while linen or handkerchief fabric calls for a finer needle. Select the needle size based on the fabric you’re working with.
- Examine the stitching. The thread should hook into the fabric layers evenly. If you can see gaps between stitches from the top or bottom, you need to adjust the thread tension.
- Red thread is used throughout this guide to make it easier to see; however, in practice, thread should match the fabric as closely as possible unless you want it to stand out against the fabric.
Warnings
- Keep your fingers away from the needle. Disconnect the power when threading the machine, and avoid putting your fingers underneath while sewing.
- Don’t force the machine to run. If the needle seems unable to penetrate the fabric, the layers might be too thick.
- Never sew over pins as they weaken the stitch and can break the needle.
Things You Will Need
- Sewing machine
- Backup sewing needle; but choose the right type for the fabric
- Straight pins; cushions or magnets to prevent needles from being lost
- Fabric
- Sturdy table, counter, or working surface
- Thread
- Thread spool compatible with the sewing machine
- Needle threader (may not be necessary when learning to sew, but essential when making real clothes)
- Fabric scissors
